Globetrotters | May Monthly Challenge

Walking On The Sands Of Time

The underground city of Talakadu in Karnataka

After a beautiful day trip to the gorgeous 13th-century monument of Somanathapura, we arrived at Talakadu and were stunned at the amount of sand in the place. So tough to walk on, as our feet would keep sinking in.

Once upon a time, Talakadu was a beautifully vibrant city, on the banks of the river Cauvery. A part of the Ganga Empire, its history dates back to the 3rd Century. It eventually came under the rule of the Cholas followed by the Hoysalas and the Vijayanagara Kingdom. Many interesting legends are associated with this place.

Since it was lunchtime, we stopped by the banks of the river Cauvery for a sumptuous and leisurely lunch. And then, took a walk towards the water. Lots of people were taking a dip. It was scorching hot and with a full stomach, we half-heartedly made for a view of the river.

Oh well, once we got there, we could hardly not take a trip in one of these, right? Also, one of them had my name written on it!

It was lovely to glide around in this “Parisal” on the waters, deftly navigated by the guide. Seven of us fit in one. Three adults and four kids. With all the laughing and screaming, of course, we got thoroughly drenched. And then, dried out walking around in the sun among the eucalyptus grove — so many trees — see the sand?

Such sink-y sand. So hard to walk in — especially with footwear. And if you are wondering — why not go barefoot, think again. Scorching hot. I did not fancy the soles of my feet well done.

Can you imagine an entire city buried under these sands?

We then set off to see the temples here. As we entered the town, I saw this painted cart. When I asked the locals what it was used for, they simply shrugged. It probably just sits there as an attraction, I am thinking.

Now, the story behind how Talakadu got its name

There used to be an ascetic named Somadatta, who regularly worshiped at the Shiva temple here. One day, en route to the temple, his disciples and he were attacked and killed by wild elephants. Later, this sage and his disciples were reborn as elephants. They continued to worship Shiva, who was in the form of a tree in the forest.

Then came along two hunters, whose names were Tala and Kadu. They chopped down the tree. Imagine their shocked surprise when blood oozed out! A divine voice instructed them to heal the wound with the tree’s leaves and fruits. They did. The tree healed. And because this tree was Shiva who healed himself, he is called “Vaidyanatheshwara” here, God of the doctors. Eventually, they built the Vaidynatheshwara temple here and the town came to be known as “Talakadu” after the hunters.

Here is the Vaidyanatheswara temple (Shiva) — entrance flanked by massive sculptures.

But I hear you wondering — why so much sand here?

There is a story — the curse of Talakadu.

In the Vijayanagara period, around the year 1610, Srirangapatnam (near Talakadu) was ruled by Srirangayya on behalf of the Vijayanagara King. His wife, Alamelamma, was a devotee of Sri Ranganayaki, the consort of Sri Ranganatha of the Srirangapatnam temple. Once a year, she sent her jewels to the temple to adorn the deity.

One day, her husband fell sick and went to worship Shiva at the Vaidyanatheshwara temple in Talakadu, leaving Alamelamma in charge of the throne. Aha! thought the Raja Wodeyar of Mysore, the neighboring city, what an opportunity to seize Srirangapatnam!

Alamelamma, in the meantime, worried to death about her husband, packed her precious jewelry and went to check on him in Talakadu. Unfortunately for her (and fortunately for Raja Wodeyar) Srirangayya died.

Now, the Raja Wodeyar of Mysore, not content with grabbing Srirangapatnam, also coveted Alamelamma’s jewelry. The soldiers of Wodeyar thought now was a good time as any to harass the heck out of Alamelamma.

Hell hath no fury as a woman scorned

Quite angry, and naturally, Alamelamma, with nowhere to go, jumped into the Cauvery with her jewels, and, as she drowned, uttered a curse. She said, “Let Talakadu become a desert. Let Malangi become a whirlpool. Henceforth, the Mysore Rajas will beget no heirs”.

From then on, the fertile Talakadu was covered in sand. The River Cauvery suddenly, mysteriously developed a whirlpool there. And to date, the Mysore Rajas have no heirs, though many adoptions are on record.

Ah, Women Power!

It is said that the temple complex mysteriously loses the accumulated sand once in 12 years when pujas are performed and devotees can see all the temples.

Currently, archaeologists are hard at work in Talakadu to unearth the temples buried under the sand dunes. Almost thirty temples are believed to be buried here. Of these, five Shiva temples have been unearthed and the most prominent is the Shiva temple — the Vaidyanatheswara temple built by the Cholas. It is a beautiful temple with incredible sculptures and carvings. We sighted the temple against the backdrop of a bright blue sky.

From there, we visited just one more, about half a kilometer away — Sri Maraleshwara Temple. We had to climb down to reach it.

The other temples were much farther away and I just didn’t have the stamina to navigate the sandy path to it. Next time, maybe.

From here, we headed back home. What a day!

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