A Lovely Afternoon in Northern Ireland’s Underrated Capital
Belfast is the city where the legendary RMS Titanic was built
Belfast probably doesn’t rank high on most travelers’ lists. That’s unfortunate since the capital of Northern Ireland is certainly a special destination. Far from being a typical touristy town, Belfast offers travelers an alternative taste of 20th-century history combined with a rich maritime heritage.
The story of the Titanic had always captured my imagination. So much in fact that it made me want to visit every historical location associated with the ill-fated liner. Hence, it isn’t surprising that I long since wanted to visit Belfast, the place where the legendary ship was built.
When I found myself in Dublin during autumn 2019, I knew I had to cross the border and visit the capital of Northern Ireland-even if it was for only a day. I spent just one afternoon in Belfast, but a very special one for sure.
Trip’s First Stop
The first stop of my trip was at the Peace lines, a series of border walls that divide the catholic from the protestant neighborhoods of the city. The walls were originally erected to minimize inter-communal violence between nationalists (Catholics) and unionists (Protestants) during the outbreak of civil unrest known as ‘the Troubles’.
Walking along the border, I was wondering whether it was necessary for these walls to exist. Was the divide among the local population still running so deep? I didn’t know, but I hoped it was not. In a place like this, it’s easy to be overwhelmed with feelings of grief and sorrow. Fortunately, my spirits went up quickly as soon as I returned to the city center.
Belfast’s Jewel
No building in Belfast evokes the Edwardian Era grandeur better than the town’s City Hall. You will find this beautiful structure in Donegall Square, at the heart of the city.
The interior has a number of notable features including the Porte-Cochère and Grand Entrance, the Grand Staircase, the Reception Room, and the Banqueting Hall.
There is also a beautiful collection of stained glass windows. These windows mark historic events or celebrate the contribution to the city by various individuals, organizations, or groups. Finding yourself in the Reception Room of this architectural marvel is an impressive sight that captures the imagination.
The City Hall’s exterior garden features several memorials and sculptures. For a Titanic nerd like me, there were many sights of interest there, including the Titanic Memorial Garden, a nine-meter-long plinth inscribed with the names of the 1,496 victims of the tragedy.
The Highlight
The highlight of my trip was undoubtedly the visit to the Titanic Quarter area where the famous Titanic Belfast Museum is located. The museum opened in 2012, exactly a century after the disaster, and ever since attracts millions of visitors every year.
Its form recalls the shape of the ships’ bow and the building stands 126 feet (38m) high, the same height as the Titanic’s hull. Needless to say, the structure is really impressive!
Having arrived a bit late -just a couple of hours before closing time, I struggled to explore in detail the nine interpretative and interactive galleries available. Yet, I can assure you that the museum is definitely outstanding and deserves its great reputation.
During the early 20th century, the Harland & Wolff shipyard was the largest in the world, and it needed to be in order to build the world’s largest ships. On the north side of the museum, visitors can see the slipways where the Titanic and her sister ships (the Olympic and the Britannic), were originally built and launched.
Farther back is Thomson Dry Dock and Titanic’s Pumping house, while on the south you can find the SS Nomadic — a tender vessel used to transfer passengers and mail to Titanic. This is the last surviving White Star Line ship, the shipping line that operated Titanic and her sisters.
Turn east from the museum and you find that the disused headquarters and drawing offices of Harland & Wolff had been converted to a beautiful titanic-themed hotel. Although I had no booking, I decided to enter.
The people at the reception were really friendly and they not only let me look around, but they also gave me a map with all the places of interest so I would not get lost. A big shout out to Titanic Belfast Hotel stuff!
There is More
Leaving Titanic Quarter behind, I came across several other attractions, including the Salmon of Knowledge, a statue of a creature figuring in the Fenian Cycle of Irish mythology. The locals call it The Big Fish and it’s a great place for snapping a picture!
Landmark structures of the city include Samson and Goliath, the twin shipbuilding gantry cranes situated at Queen’s Island. At 106 meters (348 ft) and 96 meters (315 ft) tall respectively, these structures dominate the Belfast skyline like no other.
A classic landmark of the city is also the Albert Memorial Clock, situated at Queen’s Square. I found it fairly impressive, although it reminded me of a small-scale version of London’s Big Ben.
On May Street you can find St George’s Market, the last surviving Victorian covered market of the city. A walk inside it is an experience that should not be missed when visiting Belfast.
A Pleasant Surprise
What surprised me the most about Belfast was the overabundance of impressive street art paintings and graffiti works I’ve encountered while wandering through the city. It was as if the buildings and walls were coming to life with these beautiful artworks!
I’m sure I’ve only captured a fraction of the total incredibly creative and inspiring graffitis that make Belfast so unique. The city seems to be literally full of them!
Final Thoughts
Although I tried to make the best of my limited time, one afternoon in Belfast is not enough to appreciate fully its beauty. I still have several attractions on my list, including the Botanic Gardens, the city’s Castle, and the Ulster Museum-all planned for a future revisit. Despite this, I can definitely assure you that Belfast is a unique traveling destination, especially if the story of the Titanic resonates with you.
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