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London Street Art Seen From the Saddle of My Ridgeback
Allen Gardens, Shoreditch, east London

“We’ll always have Shoreditch”. Imagine if Bogart’s Rick had uttered these words when Bergman’s Ilse was trying to talk him into joining her and her husband Victor on the plane leaving Casablanca. I’d like to believe he would have boarded that flight, Ilse’s other half notwithstanding.
But no. Instead, Rick and Ilse had Paris. Which, although I’ve yet to visit, might lack the cutting-edge Shoreditch boasts (I’m sure fellow ‘trotters will put me right on that one. Smiles)
I know that I’ve been a bit sniffy about hipsters in the past. I’m sure that if you go through previous posts of mine with a fine comb you’ll find no shortage of jibes. It’s also true that there’s only so much overpriced sourdough bread and ironic beards I can put up with. At the same time, the counterculture brings with it a precious element: freedom. At least at the start. Before it gets co-opted by big money.
Shoreditch is a prime example. This area of east London was pretty run down when I first arrived in the British capital. Nearby Hoxton (or ‘oxton, as the locals call it) had begun to blaze a trail in the wake of the first batch of YBAs (Young British Artists) who set up shop there in the early to mid-90s. Hackney, Shoreditch, Haggerston, Whitechapel, and other neighbourhoods of London’s East End followed suit soon after. Regeneration was the name of the game. Gentrification was the reality on the ground.


The art that greeted me on the day my Ridgeback and I stopped under the railway bridge was unbelievable. This being my stomping grounds, I’d been down here several times before. On this occasion, though, I paused and enjoyed the pieces on the wall more. Irreverent, in-your-face, radical, iconoclastic, surrealistic, the variety was mind-blowing.
It wasn’t hard for me to understand why Shoreditch (including its flagship street, Brick Lane) hosts most of London’s street art and graffiti. Former low rents had given up-and-coming artists the opportunity to settle here and showcase their talent on the walls outside their flats and houses (almost literally). However, over time lets have become prohibitively expensive, and nowadays Shoreditch and surrounding areas are awash with the nouveau riche. The knock-on effect on the street art being produced at the moment is that there are fewer hoardings, and fewer spots to paint. In addition, the neighbourhood is being eaten up by redevelopments.


This makes me think that this is the main reason why Rick never told Ilse “We’ll always have Shoreditch”. He liked keeping things real, our Rickster did. Also, if Rick had got on that plane, the other famous phrase from Casablanca would never have been said. Maybe that’s why I still have got a soft spot for Shoreditch. The beautiful friendship that we began many years ago continues to this day, hipsters notwithstanding.
Shoutout to these fellow ‘trotters:
Bell Dae, for her post on that mural in Berlin. It brought back memories of my childhood and adolescence in Cuba.
Thank you, Mystery Train for such a beautiful and educational post. I love it when I learn new things from fellow Medium writers.
