A Farmer’s Sabbatical (4)
Restaurante La Parcela—yes, you can go back in time!

Wonderful memories blanket this country—from more than 15 years of bliss-inducing visits to my beloved Costa Rica—covering Nosara Beach in Guanacaste, to the Central Valley surrounding San Isidro de El General, to the southern Pacific Coast all the way down to Ojochal, where I’m sitting poolside right now, writing.
They say you can never go back and expect things to be the way you left them. Here in Costa Rica, like most places, the pandemic has changed some things. Many bars, restaurants, favorite shops have disappeared, changed hands, or have sad and a little bit desperate FOR SALE signs posted.
For a country so reliant on tourism, COVID has hit hard. Nevertheless, folks masked up, got vaxxed, and pressed on, and economic life is rebounding now, especially along the ever-popular tourist towns of the Pacific coast.
Going back anyway
Last night, after a lazy riverboat ride to view the wildlife, Shadowgnosis and Linda hosted a dinner for our motley crew at La Parcela in Dominicalito, high on a cliff overlooking a stunning stretch of sandy beach.
I hadn’t recognized the name of this restaurant, but a sense of déjà vu crept in as we made our way carefully along an unpaved jungle road, up a steep hill overlooking a beautiful beach down below.
Two tiny rocky islands, covered in vegetation, appeared just offshore, and I knew! I had painted that island on my very first trip to Costa Rica back in the early 2000’s.

Last night, as we pulled into the crowded parking lot at our destination, I was overwhelmed with nostalgic joy when I recognized that famous little joint—down the hill from our rustic cabinas—where my traveling tribe of adventuring watercolorists had consumed the most delicious fish ever in the history of gastronomy.
We had arrived at La Parcela, an updated incarnation of that unforgettable little place, famous for its dorado, a whole fish—head included—deep fried and served Tico style.
This restaurant—once not much more than a hole-in-the-wall, but without walls—is now a popular, upscale gourmet spot where the Capuchin monkeys drop in (literally) to entertain diners.


Back to the present
This afternoon, after a long, sweaty hike through the local neighborhoods, I’m now distracted by my Great Kiskadee friend who is using every trick in his book to gain my attention, squawking and posing and staring me down.

I give up. He wins. It’s not difficult to understand why it’s impossible to stay focused down here. You should feel sorry for me.
Thanks for joining me on this adventure! And thanks to the welcoming WotWU and ScienceDuuude for hosting wandering writers. ❤
