#97 — The Humble Sandwich
One of life’s simple delights
Not enough reverence is given to this glorious creation. The sandwich, or in Italy, the Panino.
They say the Earl of Sandwich invented it. I doubt that very much, given the Roman Empire pre-dates Britain, and Crete was the cradle of European civilisation. Those Greeks know a thing or two about Pita bread sandwiches.
I like a Michelin restaurant as much as the next person, but given the choice of a last meal before execution … I’m going with a couple of different paninis.
Everybody likes their meat slapped and tightly held between two comestibles. Nuzzling alongside two milky soft Bocconcini … a gentle pull of that outer skin, and that creamy ooze dribbling over the meaty goodness is life personified. — Uve 2022
Italy has paninoteca — specialist panino heavens. Some are hundreds of years old, operated by 5th and 6th-generation family members. Many sell just one bread, made in-house and so stupendous, it makes grown MMA fighters cry.
Others sell a vast array of bread options. The panino is always about the bread. Crispy on the outside, crusted with just the right amount of olive oil and coarse flakes of sea salt, warmed, and a soft duck-down feathery lightness in the middle.
Many panino outlets make their own salume — (meats), not to be confused with salami! These are usually the best.
There should, in my opinion, be a Michelin rating for Panino houses. Sandwich masters should hold the same place in the pantheon of food stars, as top chefs and pâtissiers do.
My favourite panino shops in Italy are De Santis in Milan, go to the original outlet for the full experience if you are in Milan and want a cheap lunch. Or Put De Fer Panineria near ISEO LAKE. Spend 6 euros or 9 with a bowl of chips (fries) big enough to feed two and a cold beer and it is my equivalent of the Second Coming.
The beauty of this delectable meal is … it’s cheap. Even if you stump up for the Pastrami sandwich at The Brass Rail in Selfridges, London, it’s relatively cheap at £ 13.00 … because it has a pound of meat and can easily be shared. Or at Katz in New York. Katz is ever so slightly better. It has a crusty ‘bark’ on the outside of the joint of meat that defies gravity.
I would show a photo of my Katz Deli ‘moment’, but I had an out-of-body orgasm at the time of biting into the sandwich. it’s not a pretty sight.
The wife was jealous and shouted, “It’s Katz or me!”
Let’s just put it this way … I finished my sandwich.
The Italian panino is slightly different from the USA offerings. None of that bright yellow wallpaper glue that Americans call cheese, and like to slather on their sandwiches, this is a sandwich held together by real cheese. Fresh mozzarella, or better still, Burrata — that so-soft mozzarella that runs away when broken open, unless it is held captive by the plate. Smoked mozzarella too. Delicious.
Or Parmesan, Pecorino, Fontina, Emmental, Ricotta, Asagio and many more. Mandela, I love food.
Salume is sliced for each application, so it’s perfectly fresh — not pre-sliced and left to dry out.
Mortadella so pink it reminds you of the day your firstborn entered the world. Studded with pistachio and flavoured with fresh white pepper, myrtle, and coriander. It lays innocently in the meat deli, and then suddenly it’s raped by fresh mozzarella into a sultry hot love nest of bread sheets until it is oozing with perfection. Its outer colour changed by the heat and exertion of the entwining. As you bite, it gives up its juicy pleasures … your mouth sings … you bite deeper. Harder. Again and again … until both of you are consumed.
Prosciutto so thin you can see your partner through it, when held up to the light, dribbling beads of flavour with glorious anticipation. Or COPPA — its garlic, spices, and salt. Marbled fat for that intense flavour burst.
Pancetta … do not get me started.
My three best Panino:
- Roasted Aubergine & Bell Peppers with Parmesan Dusted Grilled Zucchini, Spinach leaves, Red Onion Marmalade, Goat Cheese, and Mozzarella
- Stracciatella, Cantabrian Anchovy, Course Ground Black Pepper, Tomato, Homemade Caponata
- Mortadella & Mozzarella. Butter Drizzled at the finish. (See above)
- Freshly made Porchetta sandwich, with baubles of crispy crackling and unctuous meat straight from the oven.
Who’s counting.
What’s your favourite sandwich or panino? Do you share the love? If not, I am not sure we can be friends.
Something of mine that is a little bit different.