TRAVEL. ROAD TRIP.
Wild and Free — Untamed Romania
Where you’re more likely to meet a bear on the trail than other hikers
November in Transylvania means lots of fog in the mornings and sometimes even more of it in the afternoons. It can be cold and those moments of sunshine in between should be truly cherished.
But this didn’t lessen our experience in the country. Not at all. On the contrary, through the misty days, we got to experience a very different beauty of the country. One that makes it appear eerie and mystical at the same time.
After visiting the salt mine, Salina di Turda, in the morning, We had hoped for sunshine in the afternoon as we were planning to hike around Cheile Turzii, a canyon located between Cluj Napoca and Turda.
Turda Gorge has been formed through erosion in the Jurassic limestone and is today almost 3 kilometers long. The scenic karst landscape shaping the canyon is today one of the richest ones in the country with over 1000 different plant and animal species living there.
As we were approaching the parking site we could see the fog hanging above the highest elevation points of the gorge at about 300 meters from the ground.
We put our hiking shoes on and started to walk leaving the car behind in the hands of three guards. Stray dogs in Romania.
Just after we crossed the small mountain river, we stumbled upon this quaint little library. Protected from wind and weather one can sit inside on a soft-cushioned bench and read from a selection of books displayed on the shelf.
We had other plans for the afternoon and entered the forest.
The hiking trail was a bed of fallen leaves now covered in tiny raindrops. The moisture was high and there was a chill in the air.
The forest was rather bright with most leaves on the ground but a few yellow ones still holding onto a tree or two.
It was now that I mentioned we wouldn’t be able to finish the hike my father had selected that was written out as a 4–5 hour round trip. Sunset at this time of the year is rather early in the day and when it’s foggy like this it gets dark even before that.
He didn’t seem to be bothered and just wanted us to keep moving. First of all, we had to stop multiple times to catch our breath on this steep uphill, and then again, we are here to enjoy ourselves and not run through nature.
And so we did.
We walked through an almost untouched wilderness. Except for the trail, there was no sign of human existence up here. Berries were hanging in numbers on the bushes and a few last flowers were blooming.
As we got out of the forest getting a first glimpse of the spectacular gorge, I suggested making a late lunch break and starting up the drone before the fog settles even lower.
My father took a picture of us while I was preparing the food and David was starting up the drone.
It was cold but I truly enjoyed the view down the cliffs into the gorge.
The cliffs are covered in vegetation all the way to the top. A roaring mountain river is flowing between the rocks on both sides.
And it was time to move on again. We still had a long way ahead of us and it was already late in the afternoon. But that didn’t stop me from enjoying the little joys up here.
Like tiny water droplets on the last flowers blooming.
And berries. There were lots of berries hanging on the bushes up in the mountains. We were above the tree line but a thick line of bushes was dominating the vegetation in this area.
I was sure this was bear country. And I decided to talk loudly because I wanted nothing less than to surprise a brown bear in this thicket.
Apart from flowers and berries, I also noticed spiderwebs decorated with tiny crystals. Droplets of water hanging on thin threads.
And this is what happens when I ask my husband to take a picture of me.
I guess in some way, this is a picture of me.
After reaching the highest point of the trail it was time to head down again.
On the other side of the mountain, we were now offered views of a different country. Villages on the hills and churches standing out in the distance.
Did I mention yet I do love the colors in fall? Even though most of the leaves had dropped already, some trees were still showing off their dress.
Just look across the hill. Isn’t it beautiful? Yes, I know, it was misty and we couldn’t see far. But the fog created this mystical feeling as well.
And then we were at the bottom of the mountain overlooking the neighboring village. A herd of sheep was grazing in the meadow.
The trail turned back and led us into the valley. To see the gorge from another perspective.
While the circuit trail, the one my father had planned on walking, did lead back up the cliffs on the other side, we did decide to walk in the valley. It was timely, the best decision.
And I do think the more scenic route as well. We have seen already the gorge from above and now we could experience it as well. At times the trail got very challenging.
I loved walking along the river and listening to the constant sound of flowing water.
Water always inspires me.
Oh, and I guess I did forget to mention our latest member of the hiking group. Just as my father was teaching us how to defend ourselves from stray dogs, this massive dog came running across the meadow.
I looked at David asking if he’d attack us and he denied it. The ears of the dog were hanging down which is an indicator the dog is in a positive spirit.
And after greeting all three of us he then walked with us through the gorge. Just like the other day when we hiked with stray dogs.
I stopped once more to look into one of many caves along the way and then got distracted by this tree having mushrooms growing up along the entire length of the trunk.
We were almost out of the gorge when we met the first humans since taking off on this trail but just as we were crossing a small bridge they decided to turn around clearly thinking the path was getting too dangerous.
We had a few more crossings ahead of us and some passages close to the cliffs where we had to hold onto ropes not to slip off the wet ground and stay on the path.
And then we made it. Just before it got dark we made it out of this gorge. We saw the stunning landscape from above and from within. We truly enjoyed hiking in this wilderness even though the view was never good enough to see across the next mountain.
“Hiking isn’t for everyone. Notice the wilderness is mostly empty.” — Sonja Yoerg
More stories about our trip through Romania
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