avatarAnne Bonfert

Summary

The article recounts a journey through Namibia's Namib Desert, featuring an exploration of the Gaub Canyon and its unexpected river, wildlife, and vegetation.

Abstract

The narrative describes an off-the-beaten-path adventure through the Namib Desert in Namibia, where the author and their companions traverse the Gaub Canyon. They encounter a flowing river, a rare sight in the desert, and engage with the natural environment by listening to the water, observing large fish in rock pools, and reflecting on the tragic fate of a horse. The author marvels at the resilience of grass growing on rocks and the clarity of the water, contrasting it with the surrounding arid landscape. The journey includes navigating through rocky terrain, appreciating the geological formations shaped by water over millennia, and witnessing the adaptability of flora and fauna, such as weaver birds and their massive nests. The day concludes with a drive through the desert plains, leaving the magical experience of the canyon behind.

Opinions

  • The author values the unique and less-traveled aspects of the Namib Desert, emphasizing the importance of being open to nature's surprises.
  • There is a sense of respect and awe for the desert's ecosystem, particularly the resilience of life forms in such a harsh environment.
  • The discovery of the river flowing through the

TRAVEL. NAMIBIA

When a River Flows Through the Desert

Exploring the Gaub Canyon, Namibia

Credit: Anne Bonfert

On our latest trip through the vast landscapes of Namibia, we got to explore some spectacular parts of the Namib desert. Landscape features which not every traveler gets to explore.

Driving on roads that aren’t roads. Following trails that aren’t leading anywhere. If a destination is what you are looking for.

But when you are open for nature to show you its best then this is what you want to see and explore!

Credit: Anne Bonfert

While staying at a friend’s lodge for another friend’s birthday we took their tour vehicle to explore the farmland. Since there aren’t tourists in the country they won’t need the car today to drive foreigners around for sundowners or other attractions.

We follow the semi vanished trail into the Gaub Canyon. A river that comes down from the mountains and got some decent rain a few weeks ago. Still flowing a bit today.

Credit: Anne Bonfert

We’re getting out of the car to explore the area on foot. Putting my ear onto the water level to soak in the sound of flowing water. In the desert. A lovely moment of listening to nature.

Credit: Anne Bonfert

We’re walking downriver until we can’t walk further. The canyon narrows down to a thin gorge filled with water. Big fish are swimming in the rock pool. The water is cool.

It wasn’t just us whose journey ended here. There must have been a horse looking for water and trying to get down when it slipped and fell. All I can hope is that it died a fast death.

But I won’t know. All I know that there wasn’t a predator involved in this scenario. The skin of the horse is still in perfect condition. If a leopard would have caught this animal the skin would have been ripped into pieces.

Credit: Anne Bonfert

Trying to distract me from this ugly scene I’m shifting the focus onto the bundles of grass growing on the rocks. On the rocks. That is exactly what I’m saying.

Pushing their roots into tiny gaps in the boulders and trying to collect some soil around themselves these seeds of grass grew wherever they got blown onto. And wherever they end at up being when the rain started.

Credit: Anne Bonfert

Walking back up the river towards the parked vehicle we find some more stunning rock pools just upriver from us. The water is refreshing. After a small hike in the desert.

Credit: Anne Bonfert

And the water is incredibly clear. Crystal clear. Nothing of those muddy and milky rivers running down the sandy riverbeds. It might be the same river. Or the same water.

But a different situation. At a different location. Can result in a totally different outcome. Which is right now clear and clean water.

Credit: Anne Bonfert

I’m enjoying looking at all these differently shaped rocks and boulders. Shaped by water. Shaped by a running river. Over a period of thousands of years.

Credit: Anne Bonfert

Some trees are growing too in this canyon. Deep down there. Where they always get to the water with their roots. Big seeds growing on them at the moment.

Credit: Anne Bonfert

We make our way back up the rocks. With the vehicle in a 4x4 setting. Slowly climbing over rocks and boulders to the edge of the canyon. And then we’re back on the plains.

On those plains where you almost can’t see that it had been raining. Nothing of the magic that happened down at the Gaub Canyon. Now and then you’ll find some small bundles of grass. Or a plant like this one. But it’s rare to see.

Credit: Anne Bonfert

We’re passing one of the biggest weaver nests on the farm. These birds are fascinating. How they start their nest out of nothing. And eventually, create a house that big it will take up an entire tree. Making its branches break off after a while.

Credit: Anne Bonfert

In the setting sun, we’re cruising along the side arms of the valley. Sand dunes were blown over the top. This is what the desert looks like.

Credit: Anne Bonfert

Another lovely day out in the wild comes to an end. I can’t wait to see what tomorrow will bring us.

More about my photo stories about desert life…

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