It’s Not a Mirage it is a Miracle

There is a lake in the desert

When driving through the desert you often get to see it. A glimmering lake in the distance. It appears to be water. But only to your eye. Created by the brutal heat a shimmery stretch of land shines between sand dunes and rocks.

But we all know that it’s just a mirage. There is no water in the desert. There can’t be water here. Because this is a desert. There is no water to be found in the desert. You think.

But you could be wrong. Sometimes, on rare occasions, there is a flash flood entering the Namib desert. When it rains enough in the Namib Naukluft mountains and the Tsauchab river starts to flow.

Then you might see a lake in the desert. Not as a mirage. But a miracle. That happens maybe once in a decade. It happened the last time in 2011. And now. When we were on a trip.

And I was at the right time at the right place.

To experience this once-in-a-lifetime event!

The build-up

After blowing down the tires we drove the last few kilometers to the end of the valley where the river stops. When it flows. It’s a dead end. Dunes are blocking the way to the ocean.

And this is where Sossusvlei comes in. When the flash flood comes and has nowhere to go it creates a lake. In the desert. Surrounded by dunes. There is actually not just one lake but a few of them.

Several puddles were to be spotted on our way in.

Rising our level of excitement by the second I couldn’t wait until I would see the lake. I was ready for it. With swimming suit and tubes. If I had known about it I would have brought my paddleboard as well.

But hey, who expects to pass a lake in the desert when driving through a country that has been in a drought for about ten years. Well, at least I didn’t!

Climbing the first part of one of the highest dunes of the world we got to see an amazing sized lake right next to it. I don’t think it has a specific name or anything. But it’s immense.

Together with the rising sun towards our left and the world-famous Deadvlei on our right, we are getting an incredible spectacular view from the ridge of this dune.

This area didn’t just get lucky due to the inflow of the Tsauchab river bringing lots of water down the mountains of the Namib Naukluft Park. It actually rained here as well. Probably not much. But it did.

And it rained enough to let plants come out of the dunes. I am still amazed at how they grow out of a pile of sand. I would understand seeing them thriving at the bottom of the dunes or in the pans since water gets collected in these areas.

But no, they grow on the dunes.

Walking back out of this area surrounded by nothing but sand and heat we are getting closer to our destination. Our exciting place of the day. The place that looks like a mirage. But is real.

Sossusvlei under water

Parking the car in the shade we know we will be here for a few hours. A few hours of joy and fun. We get the tubes out and jump in the water. The ground feels like clay. Muddy and slippery.

Who cares? We’re swimming in a lake in the desert. Splashing each other and laughing from the heart.

Taking the mud from the bottom of the lake we cover our bodies in it. Other people pay hundreds of dollars for a treatment like this one. And we get it for free. Plus point — the mud on the skin protects us as well from the blazing sun.

The surroundings

Within a few weeks, there will be even more life in this area. Whilst the water is still here animals will come and drink from it. Plants grow and thrive on the riverbanks.

Or even on the dunes. From the bit of rainfall received grass can grow and spread seeds in the same area. For them to rest in the sand until the next rain will come.

Climbing the dune next to the famous lake of Sossusvlei I get astonishing views of the surrounding. More lakes appear in the distance. Looking like a mirage I do know this time they are real.

It wasn’t an easy climb since it was closer to midday than sunrise. Yet I had a bottle of water with me and a pair of socks which I had to put on already at the bottom of the dune.

The sand is getting so hot one can literally burn their feet while walking on it. With averaging temperatures of 40 degrees Celsius at this time of the year, the sand can reach almost double that. Up to 70 degrees, it will heat up on the surface.

After the exhausting climb, I had a rest on top to enjoy the view in all directions around. On the one side, there was nothing but endless sand dunes. No sign of life. Not even a tree to be seen.

But towards the riverbed, I had this great view onto puddles and lakes, several trees and bushes growing at the bottom.

Running back down the dune I found some skeletons of an Oryx antelope. One that didn’t survive the drought. One for whom the rain came too late. This is the harsh life in the desert.

Only the toughest ones will survive. Only the strongest ones will keep on giving their genes to future generations. This is no place for anyone to be scared. You have to know what you are doing when living here.

The lake

Thorns are covering the soil. Thorns that will go through your feet. When walking barefoot. No shoes will protect you from the nasty thorns of the Camelthorn trees.

I’m looking for a shady spot to rest out of the sun for a while and enjoy seeing this lake in front of me. I just want to soak in every minute at this site.

Walking further I get to see the skin of some sort of fruit. Wondering where that came from I eventually see more of the fruits in these lush green bushes. But they are out of reach.

This bush has even more thorns than the trees surrounding it. With branches lying on the floor to keep anyone away from their precious fruits. I am not even getting close enough to capture one of the fruits hidden inside the middle of the bush.

I have no idea how animals should get to them. These thorns are no joke.

Walking around the lake to get back to the car I have to do several stops due to burning my feet in the hot sand. Through the socks. Yes, I’ve been telling you no jokes. This is really hot.

Jumping in the water now and then again to cool off and apply some mud on my shoulders to protect the skin from getting sunburned. I assume the sunscreen I applied earlier has worn off already.

Returning

Since the midday sun has reached this place it is time for us to leave. One last dip in the lake and we’re getting back in the car.

What an experience this has been. One I will never forget. And maybe never get to experience again. I am very happy and grateful for this event. I do know to appreciate what I’ve seen and felt today.

Driving back along the riverbed we can see where the water had been flowing. Washing out sand and leaving traces of clay behind this is what the area looks like after a river had been rushing through the desert.

And here they are. The Oryx. The biggest antelopes living in this area. My favorite ones. Because of being such tough animals. Living where one thinks no life is possible.

Feeding off the freshly grown grass they don’t let themselves get disturbed by anything or anyone. I can easily walk closer to capture the desert lilies growing next to them.

Back on the tarred road, we are crossing the last time the riverbed of the Tsauchab River. The floods of water have eaten through the tar. Pieces of the road got washed away.

Coming closer back to camp I enjoy seeing the fields turning green and covering the desert in different layers of lush green grass. What a wonderful phenomenon.

This has been an incredible experience. One I will never forget. One I am duly grateful for. I appreciated every single moment of it. The sun burning down on us included.

But if you ever get a chance to travel to Namibia this is a must-visit place. If with or without water. Either way, it is worth the journey. A journey into the depth of the Namib desert.

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Anne Bonfert is a traveler. Photographer. Writer. Teacher. Skydiving instructor. Adventure enthusiast. Nature lover. And fell in love with the African continent.