TRAVEL TALES. NEW ZEALAND.
Waking up to the Sounds of the Wilderness
And returning from an adventure in the beech forests

As the sun was rising on the horizon appearing behind the mountains, the first rays were warming up our tent. I was gently waking up to the lovely sound of the river flowing just meters from our tent while the cries of the seagulls were already filling the valley.
It had been a cold night and we know for certain now we need warmer sleeping bags but wearing all the clothes we had with us did allow us to get some decent sleep at least.
And now that the sun is up again, I can hear the buzzing outside and see the sandflies through the net. I won't get out of the tent before preparing myself.
I've always been a person who's blood was a favorite of mosquitoes. It doesn't matter if it were the German biting flies, the African malaria-carrying mosquitoes or the Thai insects. They all love my blood and therefore I've learned to protect myself over the years.
While DEET is definitely not the healthiest of all options, sometimes it's the only thing that helps me stay sane and not be covered from head to toe in bites.
Here on the West Coast of New Zealand is a different kind of fly on a mission ruining everyone's trips, or at least of those who aren't prepared. I had read about the flies and packed some insect repellent but didn't know yet how aggressive they are.
In other countries known as blackflies, the sandflies are most active in the twilight hours and live meters from flowing, not standing water like all other mozzies I know.
Also, they don’t seem to like me as much but David instead who usually walks around without any protection not receiving bites as long as I stay next to him. He would lecture me about how bad the spray is I would be applying and told me I shouldn’t bathe in it.
"Give me that spray of yours. These insects are eating me alive."
He said in a very annoyed and frustrated manner at the same time. I didn’t say much but expressed "this is why I always bathe in that stuff, now you know how annoying itchy bites are".
Mumbling a few more words he took the spray I handed him and applied it all over his body.
Doing some research after returning from this trip I learned why these flies spared me a bit more than the African ones and went for David instead. They love dark colors. For once, flies are not attracted to my always yellow and colorful clothes. Great.
Back to the story. Where were we? Still inside the tent, now both of us bathing in some insect repellent before opening the zip and climbing out of our little home in the wilderness.
Flies here or there, the view remains stunning.

The one thing about the sandflies is that they don’t like movement. Once we were up and active preparing breakfast (and were covered in insect repellent), they mostly left us alone.
So there we were standing. Enjoying our coffee (David) or tea (me) with a view of the Matukituki River. Porridge was eaten in the same spot and once we were done with breakfast, I walked down to the river and did the dishes in the crystal clear water using sand instead of dishwashing liquid to clean the bowls.

Then it was time to pack up camp and load everything again into our backpacks. Taking down the tent is most efficiently done in teamwork and so we folded each sheet nicely before putting it into the cover.



And a few minutes later, everything was stowed away in our backpacks. Looking back at our campsite, I made sure we left nothing but some bent blades of grass.

Did I mention the tree we were sleeping under yet? Look at that mushroom growing up in the canopy. And all the moss and ferns. On the tree. So beautiful, isn’t it?

Eventually we were off again heading back to the suspension bridge. That one with clear instructions. And since we decided we count as 1,5 people due to our heavy backpacks, we walked across one after the other.


On the other side of the river was a little bird sitting on a branch. Non-chalant and not shy at all. It appeared to be actually very curious about us strange visitors and closely watched our steps.
The tomtit is an Australasian robin endemic to the islands of New Zealand. Reminding me of our European great and blue tits, this little fella was a lot calmer and not in a rush to get anywhere.


And two hours later we had crossed the farmlands again, walked along the Matukituki River out of the valley and balanced over the big suspension bridge leading us back to our car.
Only here and now we met up with civilization again as a group of hikers enters the valley. Good timing. We had the wilderness all to ourselves.
What an adventure and trip it has been.

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