avatarErika Burkhalter

Summary

Erika Burkhalter shares her experiences and reflections on the spiritual and sensory juxtapositions of Varanasi, India, through a series of personal anecdotes and photographs.

Abstract

Erika Burkhalter's essay "Varanasi Fog" captures the essence of the spiritual and sensory experiences in the ancient city of Varanasi, India. She describes the contrasts of India, from the scents of flowers and cow dung to the vibrant colors muted by thick fog. Burkhalter, a yogi and neurophilosopher, has visited India multiple times, drawn back not only by the practice of yoga but also by the culture that feels like home to her. She paints a picture of the daily life in Varanasi, with its sacred Ganges River, where bathing is believed to wash away sins, and the local fishermen and boat rowers go about their work. Her narrative is interwoven with her own journey, including purchasing coral beads for her students and her personal moments of reflection on the river. The piece is a response to the "Shrouded in Fog" prompt by Weeds and Wildflowers and includes a call to action for readers to support her work and the Medium platform by subscribing or purchasing her photographs.

Opinions

  • Burkhalter expresses a deep connection to India, particularly Varanasi, which she describes as feeling like home.
  • She conveys a sense of awe and spirituality about Varanasi, emphasizing the unique atmosphere created by the fog.
  • The author appreciates the sensory overload that India offers, noting the juxtaposition of scents and colors as a confusing yet transformative experience.
  • She values the cultural significance of the Ganges River and the rituals performed there, suggesting these are central to the city's spiritual allure.
  • Burkhalter's photographs are not just documentation but an expression of her love for the subject matter, as evidenced by her willingness to sell them to interested parties.
  • She encourages reader engagement and support for writers on Medium, indicating the importance of sustaining creative platforms and their contributors.
Varanasi Fog. Photo ©Erika Burkhalter

Photography, Travel

Varanasi Fog

Weeds and Wildflowers “Shrouded in Fog” Prompt

To visit India is to experience a juxtaposition of opposites at every corner. The smell of flowers meant for pūjā ceremonies mingled with the scent of cow dung confuses the senses. And the vibrancy of the colors — of saris, of buildings, of the painted and decorated trucks and rickshaws and boats — even when they are muffled in a thick layer of fog, changes your perception of what the world should look like.

The first time I visited India, in 2004, I went to study with a particular yoga teacher. But I’ve returned to India many times over the years, not for a human teacher, but to study the origins of the practice of yoga and to experience a culture that felt, oddly, like home to me.

Old town Varanasi is a spiritual destination for all Hindus. It is believed that bathing in the Ganges washes away all sins. And the sacredness of this place permeates the air.

Varanasi Bathers. Photo ©Erika Burkhalter

I’ve now visited Varanasi several times, and every time I have been there, the day has started and ended with fog. The hush of the air and the lapping waves against the hand-rowed boats imbues a sense of both spirituality and mystery.

“Old Town Varanasi.” Photo ©Erika Burkhalter

Amongst the throngs of seekers, you can also find the local fishermen.

“Fishermen of Varanasi.” Photo ©Erika Burkhalter

And the local “rowers,” who take visitors up and down the river all day long, with a lot of muscle power, are everywhere.

Local boats. Photo ©Erika Burkhalter.

You can also find tenders of all sorts of wares out on the waters. I bought a couple hundred of these little coral necklaces (you can see them in the boat below) to bring back to hand out to my students back home. And, to this day, I come across people who still have a strand wrapped around their wrists, and it makes me happy to remember where the beads came from.

Coral beads. Photo ©Erika Burkhalter

And, here’s me, blissing out on the Ganges. It’s been five years now since I’ve been to India, and so much has happened in that time. I’m feeling the pull to return. I know that some things will have changed. But some things will always stay the same in Varanasi.

Me, blissing out on the Ganges. Photo ©Erika Burkhalter.

This piece was written in response to Dennett’s Weeds and Wildflowers prompt: Shrouded in Fog. You might enjoy some of the other pieces:

Erika Burkhalter is a yogi, neurophilosopher, cat-mom, photographer, and lover of travel and nature, spreading her love and amazement for Mother Earth’s glories, one photo, poem or story at a time. (MS Neuropsychology, MA Yoga Studies).

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Photos and story ©Erika Burkhalter. All rights reserved.

Photography
Travel
India
Yoga
Writing Prompt Response
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