JAPAN | TRAVEL

Discover the Glitz, Glamor, and Greenery of Tokyo

The strange and mysterious allure of the Japanese capital city.

Say the word Tokyo, and most likely, a flood of contrasting images come to mind.

The city means different things to different people.

Some think of the Shibuya Scramble Crossing, probably one of the world’s most recognized crossings. Others might think of Asakusa and Sensō-ji Temple, a more traditional vision of Tokyo.

Others think of the edgy street fashion of Harajuku, the old-school glamorous glitz of Ginza, or the thousands of ramen shops, restaurants, and bars that dot the city.

Maybe you too, are already imagining an ultra-modern city juxtaposed with traditions.

For me, Tokyo is something like a home away from home. I have been living in Tokyo for close to five years. Technically, it’s a bit less than that, since I was actually living in Chiba Prefecture (north of Tokyo) for about 2.5 years.

Update (Aug 11, 2022): A reader pointed out that Chiba Prefecture is mostly to the south-east of Tokyo. I was living in that part of Chiba that is actually to the north of Tokyo.

But people outside of Japan don’t know where Chiba is. It’s much easier to just say Tokyo because — who doesn’t know Tokyo?

Tokyo just makes the story easier to tell — even the Disneyland marketing team thought so. Tokyo Disneyland is actually in Chiba Prefecture, not Tokyo, but who cares?

Navigating Tokyo

Before Tokyo became Tokyo, it was called Edo (江戸）.

After the Meiji Restoration of 1868 toppled the Tokugawa shogunate and the Japanese emperor was “restored” to power, the capital of Japan was moved from Kyoto (京都 meaning “imperial city”) to Edo. Henceforth, Edo became known as the Eastern Imperial City (東京都).

Tokyo is less like a city and more like neighborhoods or small towns that melt and fuse and overlap into one another. There are the 23 wards of Tokyo, which shows remarkable diversity from East to West, and from North to South. In the center of Tokyo sits the Imperial Palace.

Most people, when talking about Tokyo, probably have in mind the 23 special wards of Tokyo. The distinction is not just geographic, it is administrative. The wards function like cities with limited municipal and fiscal autonomy to decide certain policies — for example, on recycling and waste collection.

When people think of Tokyo, this is the Tokyo they are familiar with: Roppongi, Shibuya, Harajuku, Asakusa, Ginza, Tsukiji, and so on.

These are all neighborhoods within the 23 special wards: Minato Ward, Setagaya Ward, Chuo Ward, Shinjuku Ward, and others. You might have come across some of these names if you’ve read any of Haruki Murakami’s literature.

Travel beyond the 23 wards of Tokyo, however, and you step into the region referred to as Tokyo Metropolis.

It gets larger still. The so-called Greater Tokyo Area, which includes the surrounding prefectures of Chiba, Gunma, Ibaraki, Kanagawa, Saitama, and Tochigi, is effectively the largest urban conglomeration in the world, with an estimated total population 38 million people.

Take a moment to process that.

The Quiet Greenery of Tokyo

With all of that said, you would be forgiven for thinking that Tokyo is an endless urban jungle. Despite the urban façade, appearances can be deceiving.

Many people are surprised to learn that Tokyo is full of green spaces. Even within Tokyo, you can find parks and gardens — pockets of greenery to protect and shield you from the depressing steel environment.

Travel west, and you can find the Okutama region, where nature lovers love to escape to in the summer. Think of activities like camping, fishing, and hiking. The region’s magnificent natural beauty might challenge the image that you have of Tokyo, but I assure you — it is still a part of Tokyo Metropolis.

Towering Over Tokyo

Near the imperial palace stands Tokyo Tower, an edifice of crimson steel. Although the newer Tokyo Skytree dwarfs Tokyo Tower, towering at a height of 634 meters compared to the latter’s 333 meters — both very impressive heights for earthquake-prone Japan — Tokyo Tower is undeniably more symbolic of Tokyo.

On a winter’s day a couple of weeks ago, I took the following photo of Tokyo Tower from my workplace. In the background was the stoic-looking Mount Fuji — the majestic yet aloof exterior of the mountain hiding its active volcanism.

Basking in the twilight of the setting winter sun was the unmistakable Tokyo Tower, standing proud and mighty and refusing to bow down against the cold wintry air and the uncertainty of the pandemic-struck landscape.

The Yearning for Tokyo

I posted the photograph on Instagram and I was surprised by a sudden outpouring of comments that collectively pined for the Eastern Capital — “I miss Tokyo,” said everyone.

Is it the whacky street culture of Harajuku that the world yearns for? Or the fancy luxury boutique stores of glitzy Ginza?

As I write this, Tokyo is still deep in the middle of winter. It just snowed in Tokyo yesterday — a rare occurrence.

Long and cold the winter has been, but winters always turn to spring. In the place of winter’s icy cloak comes the renewed life that verdant spring brings.

Spring Will Come, My Friends

When spring comes, and it will, the cherry blossoms will display their ephemeral beauty. At most, it will last a week, two if you’re lucky — but it is gorgeous nonetheless. The ephemerality of sakura is what makes the blossoms so beautiful.

Tokyo is all of the above, all at once.

The beauty of Tokyo hides the reality of life in Japan, and certainly, Tokyo does not represent all of Japan. The deep nuances of Japanese culture take years to discover. Still, it is a magnificent city for the traveler who wishes for the glitz, glamor, and greenery of the Eastern Imperial City.

The Japanese government may have decided to keep the border closed in the face of the ongoing pandemic.

Still, Tokyo stands, resilient in the face of uncertainly.

So, take heart, my friends.

You may miss Tokyo now, but the city won’t be going anywhere. Tokyo will be waiting for you when the pandemic ends.

For a completely different experience of life in Japan away from the urban density of Tokyo, I invite you to read about Diane Neill Tincher’s experience living in one of the most “off the beaten path” places in Japan: Kagoshima Prefecture, in the shade of Japan’s most active volcano — Sakurajima.

The author writes on a variety of topics. His key topics are Japan, society, culture, modern work, and cryptocurrency, with the occasional fictional story, creative piece, or reflective essay. Discover his most-read stories here.

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