Summary

A family's visit to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, during a period of political transition, is documented, showcasing their activities and experiences at one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

Abstract

The author recounts a family trip to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, highlighting the historical context of the country's recent change in leadership after Robert Mugabe's resignation. They detail their journey from arriving at the Zimbabwean side of the falls to engaging in activities like horseback riding and river-rafting, and navigating the park's overlooks. The narrative includes observations of the local economy, interactions with wildlife such as vervet monkeys, and the awe-inspiring beauty of the waterfall, which is also known as "Mosi-oa-Tunya" or "the smoke that thunders." The author captures the essence of their experience through personal anecdotes and photographs, emphasizing the majesty of the natural wonder.

Opinions

The author expresses a sense of anticipation and excitement about visiting Victoria Falls, especially after a long safari tour.
The political climate of Zimbabwe is noted with interest, particularly the transition of power and its impact on the local economy, as evidenced by the cash shortage and switch to the U.S. dollar.
The author finds the local vendors' persistence and the economic struggle they represent both noteworthy and somewhat distressing.
There is a mix of amusement and empathy when describing the vervet monkeys' antics and their interaction with tourists at the Falls restaurant.
The author is awestruck by the natural beauty and power of Victoria Falls, emphasizing its grandeur and the visceral experience of being close to the edge of the waterfall.
The author values the opportunity to share the experience with family, capturing moments with photographs and cherishing the collective memory of the visit.

The Smoke that Thunders

Victoria Falls, one of the Seven Wonders of the World

We arrived at the Zimbabwe side of Victoria Falls in the early afternoon. This was our last full day with our safari tour group. After ten days of travel from Namibia, Botswana and finally to Zimbabwe, we were parting ways with the group the next day.

It was December of 2017 and Zimbabwe was in the news. About a month before our trip to Africa, Zimbabwe’s then-dictator, Robert Mugabe, resigned amidst charges of corruption. After a peaceful military takeover, the country got a new president.

Our driver, Towanda, parked the bus, then led us through cheerfully haphazard downtown streets of stitched-together buildings to a travel agency. There, we watched a presentation about Victoria Falls and its offerings. Those of us who wanted to could sign up for different activities like bungee jumping, helicopter rides, and zipline. My husband Drew had already signed up us and our two young adult daughters for horseback riding the next day and river-rafting the day after that.

Afterwards, we went over to the parking lot of Victoria Falls. Along the way, I saw people lined up outside commercial banks. Before we left the United States of America, I had read news reports that Zimbabwe had a cash shortage. They had scrapped their currency and switched to the U.S. dollar. That was why there were lines outside financial institutions. Account holders came every day to withdraw a limited amount of cash.

As we disembarked, several vendors tried to tempt us with their goods. We were waiting to check out souvenirs in and out of the Falls, so our family declined their offers. Their eyes looked haunted.

Towanda instructed the group to meet at the parking lot at five. Just outside the park on the Zimbabwe side, I could feel humidity in the air, no doubt from the waterfalls’ spray.

A display near the park entrance said Victoria Falls has also been referred to as Mosi-oa-Tunya, which means “the smoke that thunders.” Victoria Falls, considered the world’s “greatest” waterfall, dwarfs even the Niagara Falls. It sits on the Zambezi River which straddles Zimbabwe and Zambia. Zimbabwe used to be the British colony Southern Rhodesia.

Once inside the park, our family decided to get cold drinks at the Falls restaurant. Vervet monkeys, their inquisitive eyes blinking on their dark face, surrounded the open-walled restaurant. A little girl who looked about four wailed and turned to her mom. A monkey had stolen her ice cream cone. It was sad and funny at the same time.

We finished our drinks. It was time to tour the Falls’ overlooks. From the restaurant, we couldn’t see past the jungle foliage and paths snaking in different directions. Anticipation grew within me. I could feel and hear the spray, now I just needed to see it.

Photo of author’s daughter at a Park trail by Jewel Allen

The map showed over a dozen overlooks in the park. Our family started from one end of the waterfall, at the “Number 1 Do not climb the statue” stop. It was a statue of Dr. Livingstone, a British explorer who discovered the Falls for the British Empire and named it after Queen Victoria.

From there, we went down a wet cobblestone path. I gingerly trod the ground in my sandals. Our cook Mark said flip flops were okay, but already, I saw one of our group members holding a broken pair in her hand. I hoped my flimsy sandals would last through the two-hour scenic overlook loop.

Finally, we reached an overlook that framed a section of the Falls. It was stupendous in its breadth. Even then, during the summer and lower water levels, the Falls still put out a curtain of water. As I walked the path parallel to the cliff’s edge, the mist curled my hair in tendrils and cooled my sweaty face. A rainbow formed across the spray.

At one of the overlooks, there was no guard rail, just an expanse of rock on which tourists can sit to enjoy the sun and spray. I told Drew to stay away from the edge, but even I flirted with danger. Just one little stumble, and it would have been sayonara, baby. I took pictures of the girls, sitting with their heads bent together, regarding the majesty of one of the natural wonders of the world.

Thank you for reading!

I published this piece in response to this month’s “Waterfalls” challenge on Globetrotters. Check out a couple of my favorites:

Don’t Go Chasin’ Waterfalls by Adrienne Beaumont made me so happy. I’m from the Philippines, so reading about her adventures there was so fun!

Exploring and Learning About the Wonder of the Snake River and Idaho Falls by JoAnn Ryan features some photos of lovely blue waters.

Check out my novels and my quick guides to writing and publishing fast for profit. I also write travel books, including “African Safari” where this excerpt first appeared.

To get access to UNLIMITED stories from all the amazing Medium writers, you can also consider signing up to become a Medium member. If you sign up using my referral link, I’ll receive a small commission (at no extra cost to you).