BTRAVEL TALES
The Roaring Meg
When historic tales combine with landscape features

As I was talking to David, the falcon was sitting on a dead branch of a tree just above the gravel trail staring at us. Not giving the slightest impression he’d take off soon and certainly not signing us any fear.
For our off day, I had two different hikes in mind which both fell flat as the AllTrails App informed us of the seasonal closure of both of them for either lambing or fawning season. Therefore we needed an alternative and found the nearby Roaring Meg Track.
But why Roaring Meg? While there is now a hydro station built in the creek where the Roaring Meg River runs into the Kawarau River, the history of the name giving goes back to the early settlers of the region.
According to the story, an early group of gold miners took two girls with them from a dancing saloon. Reaching the first large stream, they carried the girls across. The one girl, Maggie, made a huge fuss about it and therefore they named the turbulent stream after the noisy red-headed Irish barmaid. The other girl was very calm and silent and they named the second stream according to the tale “Gentle Annie”. Both of these streams are holding these names officially today.
The roaring sound of the Kawarau River was overpowering our conversation as we were getting ready for the hike. A few cars zoomed past us on the highway from Queenstown just before we crossed the road to reach the starting point of the trail.
And then, just a few meters into the trail, an animal fence was blocking our way. David pointed at the stairs made for humans to climb over while I mentioned the fact there was no trail continuing on the other side.
This was when David remembered someone had reviewed the trail a few months ago saying the first part was rather overgrown. Well, this isn’t overgrown but simply non-existing. I’d say.
Either way. We climbed over the fence and brushed through tall grass, scraped along spiky bushes and collected a gazillion spiderwebs in our faces.
Luckily there are no deadly or poisonous animals in this country or I wouldn’t walk like that through the bush. Lots of fallen trees were blocking the way and sometimes it was a difficult decision between going over or under.



Some incredibly lush pine trees with super soft needles were lining the last few meters of this overgrown and not-maintained hiking trail before coming out above the tree line.


A solid gravel road was now our trail appearing rather boring and monotonous after this barely visible and challenging but interesting beginning of the trail.

A few smaller streams were running down the mountain leaving serious marks on the slopes with deep creeks and several mud slides on the sides.

At some parts, signs were even warning us of high avalanche risk calling the area a no-stopping zone. Just keep on walking.

Just as we were getting around the corner I saw a raptor sitting high on a branch of a dead tree. While knowing I had the wrong lens on my camera I didn’t even try to snap a picture but looked him in the eye.
Being certain the New Zealand Falcon, a native but endangered bird species, would fly off as we were walking toward him following the road, I couldn’t believe that he was completely ignorant of our presence.
Walking a few meters further until disappearing behind a boulder, I put my backpack down, switched out the camera lenses and carefully backtracked my steps again.
Compared to David who had continued walking up the mountain, this bird hadn’t moved an inch giving me not only a chance of taking one shot but looking at the result as well, analyzing the bad light and changing settings for an overexposed background but sharp image of the falcon.

Two hours into our walk, we decided we had reached our turn-around point and looked for some flat rocks to sit on and have lunch.


Overlooking the tranquil valley of the Roaring Meg while snacking on cheese and crackers, we embraced the silence up in the mountains.

After lunch, we walked back down again noticing how far we had come and how steep the trail had been disregarding the easy conditions of following a dirt road.

Yellow wildflowers were lining the track and several dead trees were lying spread across the mountain which I think is all part of the country’s killing of the invasive pine tree intruder.

While we were convinced to take down the gravel road all the way to the car park as we saw how challenging the overgrown trail was coming up, we changed our decision upon reaching the split.
Why not? We’re here for an adventure and not to go on a granny's trail.

And so we turned off with the mindset of taking it very slow and easy not to slip on the very narrow and uneven trail. Did I say trail? I mean not to trip on the uneven terrain.

Surprised at how easy the way down was and how deceiving our impression from the hike up was, we were very happy we decided to take this trail again as we reached the car park with a smile on our faces.

If you’re interested in my New Zealand adventures, subscribe to my newsletter to stay updated or check in on my new list regularly. Join my email list here if you would like to read more photo essays.
Shutterstock | Instagram | YouTube | Mailchimp | Amazon | Redbubble





