avatarDarren Weir

Summary

The author recounts their journey through Pushkar and Bikaner in Rajasthan, India, highlighting the unique cultural experiences and attractions.

Abstract

In the third part of a five-part series, the author details their visit to Pushkar, a desert town known for its Brahma Temple and vibrant market frequented by international backpackers and hippies. Despite the allure of the temple, the author chooses to explore the market, noting the array of Rajasthani goods and food stalls. They also humorously recount a disappointing pizza experience at a place recommended by Lonely Planet. The narrative includes observations of camel riding tourists and the town's strict rules against non-vegetarian food and alcohol. After a relaxing stay and an Ayurvedic massage, the author travels to Bikaner, visiting the Karni Mata Temple, known for its rat worship, and the Camel Research Center, where they try camel milk. The author stays at a beautiful red sandstone hotel and tours Bikaner's attractions, including the Lalgarh Palace and museum, and the old fort, providing insights into the local history and the life of Maharaja Ganga Singh.

Opinions

  • The author seems to prefer immersing in the local market atmosphere over visiting temples, indicating a preference for cultural interactions and observations.
  • They express skepticism towards travel guide recommendations, particularly after a negative dining experience at Little Italy, a place endorsed by Lonely Planet.
  • The author finds camel milk to be a pleasant beverage, describing it as slightly sweeter and heavier than cow's milk, contrary to the belief that it is saltier.
  • They appreciate the architectural beauty of the Hotel Sagar in Bikaner, despite noting that the room furnishings could use some improvement.
  • The author values the historical context provided by the guided tour of the old fort in Bikaner, suggesting that such tours enhance the visitor experience.
  • They hint at the unique nature of the Karni Mata Temple, leaving the reader intrigued with a link to a separate article about the rat temple.
  • The author encourages readers to support their writing by joining Medium through their referral link, indicating a desire for reader engagement and support for their work.

Rajasthan: My Epic Journey In The Land of Maharajas

Part Three of Five — Pushkar and Bikaner

Brahma Temple; Sikh Temple — Pushkar India — author’s photos

If this is Friday this must be Pushkar, the next stop on this marathon journey through Rajasthan. It was a fairly quick drive from Jaipur, taking just a couple of hours. We arrived early afternoon, checked into the hotel and I headed into town to check things out. My plan was to head to the Brahma Temple, one of the few in the world, but I had to walk through the market first to get there.

The sights in the market were so interesting that by the time I got to the temple, I decided not even to go inside. (I think I am templed out!) I’m sure it was beautiful, as was the Sikh Temple that I also walked past.

Pushkar market — author’s photos

To me, the market was the place to be. Pushkar is a desert town and a mecca for backpackers. And the market is full of them. Travelers from all over the world, most European, and most hippy throwbacks to the 60s or hippy wannabes. The market itself is fascinating with all of the beautiful Rajasthani goods for sale, everything from blankets and hand-painted t-shirts to leather bags and jewelry, not to mention the plethora of food stalls all over.

But if you go, just a reminder that some things are forbidden in Pushkar, and reminders are posted everywhere.

Pushkar rules — author’s photo

I wandered the market until I was exhausted and then, despite the lure of the heavily spiced curries, decided to go for pizza (I haven’t had western food for a while) and I thought I would trust Lonely Planet’s suggestion and check out Little Italy, about a block from my hotel.

Pushkar pizza place — author’s photo

I now know not to trust everything the traveler’s bible tells you. It was nice enough, but the food sucked. Soggy pizza that tasted like the sauce was made with canned tomato soup. There was only one other couple there and about a million flies.

camel riding tourists in Pushkar — author’s photo

Camels are big business in Pushkar and there are various rides available across the city. Pushkar is famous for the camel fair that is held every year (usually in late October or early November). It not only features livestock trading and auctions for camels, horses, cows, sheep, and goats but there is also camel racing, local Rajasthani folk music, dance, arts and crafts, and competitions like the longest mustache (Rajasthani men like to grow long mustaches).

Pushkar hotel and courtyard — author’s photos

Pushkar also has a reputation as a relaxed, chill city, so that’s what I did. I chilled out. I headed back to the hotel and had an Ayurvedic massage that was just what the doctor ordered. It started at the top of my head as the masseur poured oil all over my hair (I should have waited to have a shower) and massaged it down my body ending at the tips of my toes followed by several minutes of thumping on my head. Ohmmm… ouch!

Giant tortoises Chillin’ in Pushkar — author’s photo

The next day we arranged a noon start, so I was able to sleep in and take my time getting ready in the morning. It also gave my driver a chance to visit his brother and his family in Pushkar.

On our way to Bikaner we took a bit of a detour to the town of Deshnok to visit one of the strangest temples I have ever seen, the Karni Mata Temple where pilgrims come to worship rats! You can read about my visit to the temple here… if you dare.

Camel Research Station — Bikaner, India — author’s photos

As we arrived in Bikaner we stopped off at the Camel Research Center, basically an agricultural station where the focus is on the camel. They breed them, study them, milk them, and even have a program using camels for power generation.

While most of us grew up drinking cow’s milk, and you’ve probably heard of some people drinking goat’s milk or sheep’s milk… well what about camel milk?

Pregnant camels and stud camels at Research Center — author’s photos

It was an interesting place to see and learn all about these giant beasts and it gave me a chance to sample the local beverage of choice. As I tentatively sipped my coffee with camel milk, I found that it really wasn’t that bad. It was slightly sweeter, with a slightly heavier flavor than cow’s milk. Others say it is a bit saltier than cow’s milk, but I didn’t find that, possibly because the coffee masked the salinity.

Me sampling camel milk — author’s photo

The hotel I stayed at is a beautiful red sandstone structure, probably the nicest hotel in Bikaner, and is similar to a Haveli with the big open inner courtyard and all the rooms facing into it. The room itself was just okay, the furnishings are nice and it shows well, but again on closer inspection, it needed some attention.

Hotel Sagar in Bikaner — author’s photo

I waited until the next morning to tour the city, hitting the major attractions, Lalgarh Palace and museum, and later the Fort. The museum is a tribute to Maharaja Ganga Singh featuring artifacts about him and his life in Bikaner, including the royal rail car.

Maharaja’s artifacts including royal rail car — author’s photos

On the same grounds is the palace, part of which has been converted into a 5-star hotel. I walked around and through the hallways looking at the building and the furnishings. There was no one around to tell me where I could and couldn’t go, so I just kept looking around.

Bikaner palace — author’s photos
Lalgarh Palace — Bikaner, India — author’s photos

The old fort is a massive structure, so it’s best to get a guided tour by headset which only costs an extra 50 IRS or $.65 USD, and is well worth it because it describes not only the fort but also the history of the Maharaja and the city.

Coming up in Part Four, are highlights from my Camel Safari in the Thar Desert.

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Rajasthan
India
Travel
Pushkar
Bikaner
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