Rajasthan: My Epic Journey In The Land of Maharajas

Part Four of Five — Camel Safari in the Thar Desert and Jaisalmer

Just before we reached Jaisalmer, we made a detour to a traditional Rajasthani resort near Khuri, in the Thar Desert. It had several huts for guests and a few brick and clay buildings surrounding a large courtyard.

As soon as we arrived I met my camel and his handler who would lead me to the dunes, like a slow trail ride. I hopped on the saddle and the camel, Shiya clumsily got to his feet and we were off.

The ride was not as rough as I expected. He had a smooth gait that rose up and down slowly and if you’ve ever ridden a horse, it isn’t much different, although you are higher off the ground. The padded saddle helped to cushion the impact. The only time I felt discomfort was going down a steep hill and I was suddenly pushed up against the saddle horn, kind of like a kick in the crotch.

The handler was very friendly and knew good English, telling me how he loved his job because he was able to meet people from around the world. He had been at it for 14 years and the camel belonged to his family, so I knew it was being well cared for because it was the family’s only means to make a living for the few months from October to March when the tourists would come to the desert. After that people stay away because of the heat, when temperatures reach 40C–50C degrees (and sometimes even higher).

As we rode up the dunes there were about two dozen tourists on camels already there. The ride up and down the dunes was a slow and bumpy ride but the beauty of the desert was calming. The waves in the sand, carved by the wind were hypnotizing.

When we reached the summit we moved to an area away from the other group of tourists, where we stopped and I dismounted and I was finally able to walk through the sand.

I sat down to survey the landscape just as the sun went lower on the horizon. Occasionally someone would come along trying to sell me beer or water and of course, other tourists would also ride by on their camels preparing to leave the dunes. We stayed to watch the sunset and it was spectacular. It was a bright orange ball that turned the clouds into colorful waves, like those reflected in the sand.

Just as the sun was disappearing we decided to head in, because the heat of the day gave way quickly to a sudden night chill. We rode back to the resort for dinner and called it a day, only about an hour and a half long but still worth the experience.

When we returned, my driver was there to greet me and said I had the option of sleeping at the resort or out in the desert. Since my teeth were already chattering I opted for a bed indoors, even though I didn’t expect it would be much warmer.

I was told to have a seat with the others in the courtyard and as the stars came out, a group of musicians joined us along with a dancer who would perform Rajasthani folk dances for us. The music was entertaining and the dances were mesmerizing.

After a few songs, the dancer came over and asked me to join her. I declined so I could sit back and watch the show, but when a couple of others got up to dance, the leader of the band came over, put his turban on my head, and grabbed my hand, how could I refuse. I’ve never felt so uncoordinated in my life, as I jumped around trying to mimic the woman leading the dance. Soon several other people got up and joined us, obviously realizing they couldn’t make bigger fools of themselves than I already was. It was a lively dance, using every part of the body, the feet, legs, hips, hands, and even your head. It was a lot of fun and quickly got rid of the chill. When it ended we all fell back into our chairs and were told dinner was ready. We piled up our plates with local, spiced vegetarian dishes, that hit the spot after our adventure in the desert and the dance we just performed.

Those in the group who opted to sleep outside under the stars packed up their gear and headed out while those of us who opted for the comfortable beds were shown our rooms. I’m glad I stayed. I was given a “suite” in one of the brick and mud buildings with a big king-sized bed. Small mirrors were set in the clay walls to reflect the light, and there were wall hangings, satin curtains, and best of all… my own bathroom.

I settled down under the quilted bed cover and pillows and couldn’t believe how warm it was. Even though they promised plenty of blankets out on the dunes, I knew I had made the right choice.

I woke to the sound of cows mooing outside my window, dawn was just breaking, so I decided to get dressed and watch the sunrise. I followed the camel path towards the dunes and saw peacocks moving among the trees and on rooftops, several deer, and an amazing sunrise. I was in awe of the solitude and beauty at that time of the day.

As soon as the sun broke through, the chill in the air gave way to a morning heat that kept building the longer I walked. I decided to head back and of course got lost, wandering through huts in the village as people were getting up to start their day, looking at me like I was from another planet. Women were collecting water in large metal jugs that they carried on their heads, while other women were out herding goats. A group of kids came running up to me asking for pens… not money… pens! Too bad I didn’t have any with me.

When I reached the end of the town I realized I had no idea where to go. I met a Rajput man sitting outside his home and asked him if he knew where the resort was. He got up and offered to lead me there. Punama told me he was between 45 and 50 (he didn’t know for sure) and had been a camel driver for about 30 years. Within a couple of minutes, we reached the resort. I thanked him and offered to give him a bit of cash, but he refused.

As I walked into the resort courtyard, the others were just getting back from their night in the desert and complained that it was freezing, beautiful under the stars and moon but very very cold. For me, it was a perfect evening and a perfect start to the day, just me, the sun, the moon, the wildlife, and the camels… truly a magical experience.

Jaisalmer

The next morning we headed into the golden city of Jaisalmer… and another fort and another palace. I got a guide to take me through the walled city, one of the oldest in India, founded in the 12th century which makes it one of the oldest cities I had ever visited.

As you enter the gate there are handprints carved on the wall and I learned about their horrific story, which highlighted the plight of women. When women didn’t want to get married they would paint their hands with red vermillion and leave their handprints on the wall before setting themselves on fire. This tragic practice continued until 1980.

We wandered through the narrow streets taking photos of the detailed carvings along the walls of the buildings. I visited the second largest Jain Temple in the world, its floors are said to have been strengthened with ghee (clarified butter) that becomes slippery in the heat.

Despite the size of the temple, only 5 Jain families are remaining in Jaisalmer although it serves as an important pilgrimage site for followers of the religion.

I took a tour of one of the largest Havelis in the city, built for Salim Singh, one of the first Prime Ministers of Jaisalmer. Some of his descendants still live there and have opened up part of it to the public, selling off some of their family antiques to help pay the bills.

As the sun started to go down we headed to sunset point to watch… the sun set. It’s a site where Hindu families bring their deceased relatives for public cremation among the temple-like structures, but it has spectacular views of the fort and the setting sun.

The next morning I toured the Mandore Gardens, beautifully kept grounds with some massive Shiva Temples, which are reminiscent of the temples in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

The park was alive with chipmunks, birds, and MONKEYS. So many monkeys everywhere, flying through the trees, tumbling together on the grass, or just resting on ledges and even park benches.

Coming up in the fifth and final installment, I’ll take you to Jodhpur and my vote for the most beautiful city in India, Udaipur.

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