Remarkable Trail Tales
Nourishing the Soul in Hungary’s Wilderness
Escaping the City To Explore Outstanding Forests and Reach New Heights
The benefits of hiking, both physically and mentally, have been scientifically proven and known for a long time.
Except for summer, my wife and I hike in the forests and mountains of Hungary for at least a day almost every weekend.
Since we both have office jobs that need long hours of sitting, hiking and its beneficial aspects have become essential to us, in the forest, regardless of the weather, one quickly rejuvenates.
Being residents of Budapest, the capital city, there are many opportunities for hiking in the surrounding areas. Yet, we prefer exploring the more distant forests of the country.
One weekend, we decided to visit Western Hungary and climb the highest point of the Transdanubian region, the Írott-kő.
The peak, with its height of 882 meters, may not be a great feat on a global scale, but it proved to be a challenge in the context of Hungary.
Travel and Accommodation
We planned a full-day hike with an early start. So, the day before the hike, we stayed in Kőszeg. The city, located at the foot of the Alps, near the border with Austria, proved to be a perfect starting point for our journey.
Kőszeg is worth visiting for its medieval charm, with Hungary’s oldest functioning town hall located in its historic square.
The Kőszeg Castle, named after Captain Jurisics Miklós, got its name from his leadership in repelling 19 attacks by the Turkish army heading towards Vienna. Legend has it that the last units of the Turkish army left the city at 11 o’clock. The bells still ring at the same time in memory of this event.
Our accommodation was a simple yet perfect apartment in the city center. Unfortunately, we arrived late, and almost all eateries were closed, so we prepared for the next day’s early morning hike on an empty stomach.
The weather turned out to be favorable, with a cloudy but rain-free forecast for the day. After a hearty breakfast and suitable attire, we set off on our planned full-day hike.
The Hike
Our journey started from the city center. Being a small town, we quickly left the central buildings behind, and after half an hour, we approached the entrance to the forest in the suburban area.
The marked trail immediately started with a steep ascent, helping us to warm up. A long and continuous climb awaited us through an oak forest.
When one undergoes serious and continuous physical exertion, there isn’t much energy left for conversation. This allows for internal quietude and introspection.
This blessed state, where one is present at the moment without the chaos of memories or future fantasies, is a wonderful feeling. Moreover, the surrounding forest emanates continuous nature-infused energies.
Due to the physical exertion and the power of nature, even in this passive state, we can control our thoughts or at least reduce the activity of our minds. Experiencing this focused state is very useful, as it becomes easier to recall it in bustling everyday life.
After about an hour and a half of ascent, we reached the Óház-tető at 609 meters, where the Upper Castle, built in the 13th century, is located. It also functions as an observation point. From here, a marvelous panorama unfolded. Showcasing the surrounding mountains and offering a clear view of Kőszeg, the starting point of our hike.
We took a short break and had some hot tea. Judging by my partner’s worried look, I saw that I needed to reassure her that we had overcome the challenging section of the hike. From here on, we could progress more easily towards our goal, the Írott-kő lookout.
Well, that didn’t happen! I mean, we set off again with my supportive words, but the ascending section continued. The weather held up as predicted, so at least the terrain wasn’t slippery.
We were eagerly anticipating reaching the next tourist checkpoint, the Vörös-kereszt, after a more than three-hour exhausting climb. From there, a much easier section followed.
One of the largest tourist checkpoints in the Kőszeg Mountains is marked by a red cross. Erected in memory of pilgrims who rested here on their way to pilgrimage. It became a popular excursion spot in the 19th century, and in 1930, one could head in five directions from here.
Leaving the Vörös-kereszt behind, we continued on a much gentler and forested path with a breathtaking view. During this section, we had the opportunity to chat with my wife.
During such times, more serious and profound topics usually arise. We discuss life’s big questions.
Both of us are vegetarians, practice yoga, and meditate every day. It’s no wonder that spirituality and mysticism are integral parts of our daily lives.
While our viewpoints, approaches, and perspectives may differ, our fundamental aspirations remain the same. It’s not a coincidence that we make a great couple!
Continuing along the mountain ridge, we reached the Hörmann Spring, the highest spring in the Kőszeg Mountains at 713 meters. We thought it was time to fill our water bottles, but a sign at the site alerted tourists that the water was not drinkable based on the test results. We reluctantly accepted this and moved on towards the peak, which, according to the map, did not seem so far away.
Due to the more than three-hour exhausting ascent, we were hungry, so we had to stop for a bit to take in some calories.
As it was winter, I had to check our progress, as we wanted to exit the forest before the early darkness. Luckily, we still had a few hours, so we began the final ascent.
We covered the last kilometers along the Austrian-Hungarian border. Austria to our right, Hungary to our left.
Finally, we reached the Írott-kő lookout. At this unique vantage point, not only do national borders converge, but it also marks the meeting point of the Half-Million-Step Blue Tour leading to Hollóháza.
When the term “Írott-kő” is mentioned, some envision a peak, others think of the fortress-like observation tower, and some recall the namesake rock formation. Climbing to this special point is worth it for all three.
Írott-kő is not only the highest point in the Kőszeg Mountains but also the peak of the Transdanubian region and the Burgenland region in Austria. From the 882-meter elevation, we could admire the landscapes of Austria; to the southeast, we could see the hills of Hungary. Not long ago, these two countries were separated by the Iron Curtain.
At the lookout, we again had a few bites to eat, then looking at the clock, I signaled that it was time to start the descent to get out of the forest before dark.
Since we didn’t have time to go back to Kőszeg, we aimed for the village of Velem, located 6 kilometers away.
Descending around 700 meters in a short stretch, our progress on the return journey was also not very fast.
Our path followed along a stream, and we were sure that even if it got dark, we would reach the village. And we did.
We arrived at the village bus stop just as it was getting dark, and after a fifteen-minute wait, the local bus arrived, taking us back to Kőszeg.
It was a wonderful and unforgettable day. In the evening, at our accommodation, we prepared a hearty dinner to activate our last bit of energy, thus concluding our adventurous day.
Takeaways
I recommend everyone spend as much time in nature as possible, regardless of the season or weather.
Based on my research of health literature, walking in nature comes with the following health benefits, including:
Reducing the stress hormone cortisol levels and improving mood.
Lowering blood pressure and enhancing heart health.
Increasing the number of immune cells aids in the fight against infections and diseases.
Improving attention and cognitive function, making concentration and creativity easier.
Time spent in nature is associated with improved self-esteem and overall well-being.
Thank you for taking the time to read my story.
If you enjoyed it and are interested in my other adventures, I recommend reading the following travelogues.
Hello, I’m Jozsef Kovacs. I’m writing about leadership, project management, and travel. Click here if you would like to be notified when I publish.