If There’s a Tower, I Have to Climb It
Right to the top!
The best views are up there. I love a view — a view of the city, a view of the countryside, a view of ruins. I’m not afraid of heights — but I am afraid of falling!
Sometimes the stairs are like a ladder and sometimes, the height between each step is at least half a meter. I don’t know how people climbed them all those years ago. They had much shorter legs than mine. They must have been more spry. 😆
I climbed (dragged myself up) one of the towers on the Great Wall of China, but couldn’t manage to get down unaided. Fortunately for me, a few Sir Galahads were ready and willing to help this poor old woman in distress.
I should have learned my lesson on the Great Wall, but I didn’t. So when I travelled solo around Eastern Europe in 2019–20, I climbed everything there was to climb.
When I arrived in Tallinn, the tower of St Olaf’s church which is normally accessible to see the city from above was closed for repairs. But there were 26 towers of the original city walls still in use.
For my last day in Tallinn, the KGB Prison Cells and the Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion passages museum were on my list. I made it to neither. I won’t go into details but let’s just say I was sidetracked. On my way to find the KGB place, I found St Catherine’s Passage and the entry to the city walls and I was tempted. I bargained the cashier down to 2 euro — I joked they should be paying me to do it — and climbed up the stairs to the ledge along the wall. It sounds dangerous, but it wasn’t. I walked the entire length until I came to the tower at the other end.
I managed to get to a viewing point halfway up without too much difficulty, but you know me, I had to make it to the top! Which I did and have the photos to prove it. But it was a foolhardy thing to do. I pulled myself up via the rope handrail, which was being frayed at the corners and looked none too safe, reached the top and sat down. I was joined by two young English guys, who had just come from the maritime museum and highly recommended it, even showing me photos. It did look interesting, but I still had two places on my list! Then came the hard part; getting down! It wasn’t easy but I did it!
I took the opportunity to walk through St Catherine’s Passage on my way to the KGB cells. Climbing the tower had exhausted me.
My water bottle was empty just as I came to Hell Hunt — a pub that was recommended by my walking tour guide. At this point, I was prepared to pay anything for a drink. It wasn’t the most expensive cider I’d had but wasn’t cheap either.
I ordered tomato and cheese soup as well. After the meal and the rest, I set off for the KGB. I was on the right street but just couldn’t find it. At this point, I noticed I was limping (more than usual), and headed back to the hostel. Bugger the KGB cells.
My intention was to have a lie-down and then tackle the bastion passages. I probably needed ice on my quad, because I’ve definitely done something to it. Not good. I didn’t get to see the underground passages. I struggled down to Grandmother’s Place for my last meal in Tallinn, chose the Kana (yummy chicken that I’d had the first night) and a glass of white wine, and hobbled back to my room to pack my bags ready for my flight to Saint Petersburg.
I loved Tallinn. I loved everything about it except what that bloody tower did to my leg, and it was all my own fault. I think it might be my favourite European capital city.
If you want to read more about Tallinn and Bratislava and Ljubljana, read this one by Kenny Minker. I love all three!
And Jay Davidson visited Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius!
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