Glimpses to My European Trips
Discovering Bratislava: A Captivating Gem in Central Europe
Our weekend getaway that is both classic and contemporary
January in Central Europe can be quite cold, significantly shaping outdoor activities. Although a pleasant urban stroll or a light forest hike can provide a refreshing experience for city dwellers even in winter.
Two weeks ago my wife and I decided to visit Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, which proved to be a perfect destination.
This city, with its rich historical past, which served as the capital of Hungary for several centuries, is also referred to as a Danube beauty. The presence of the city is also very exciting; Bratislava serves as the center of one of the fastest-developing regions in Central Europe.
Starting Travel
Bratislava is located 200 km (124 miles) west of Budapest. Due to its proximity, it can be reached in around 2 hours by car, bus, or train. We opted for the train journey to enhance the sense of adventure.
I’ve always found train travel to be a special experience, whether it’s a multi-day journey or, in this case, a pleasant two-hour trip.
I purchased the train tickets on the Hungarian railway company’s website two weeks before the trip at a very favorable price of 32 EUR per person.
The train departed from the Nyugati Railway Station at 9:30 a.m. on Saturday. After securing our seats, we were on our way, and our weekend adventure began.
Cold weather was forecasted for the weekend, although it promised bright sunshine. So, as we traveled towards Bratislava, we could admire the winter Danube and its surroundings from the train window.
After two hours, we arrived at Bratislava’s central train station. Since it was already around noon, we decided to start our program with a healthy lunch.
First Day
Since both of us are vegetarians, I had already looked into possible options. I recommend the HappyCow website. It provides great assistance in finding local vegetarian and vegan restaurants.
We headed towards Balan Bistro, which was a 15-minute walk from the station. On our way, we passed Freedom Square, surrounded by various government buildings, including a renovated 17th-century palace, which used to be the summer palace of the Archbishop of Esztergom.
To our surprise, we found that the city was still waking up around noon on Saturday. There wasn’t much traffic, neither vehicular nor pedestrian. After having lunch at Balan Bistro, we decided to continue our city exploration.
As our next stop, we chose Eurovea Shopping Center, located on the banks of the Danube. We had heard about the major redevelopment along the Danube, which we wanted to see.
Since it was only a 25-minute walk from the restaurant, we concluded that there are no great distances in Bratislava’s city center. Everything is easily and effortlessly accessible.
During our walk, a huge building appeared before us. I immediately looked up information about the building, which turned out to be a disused hotel.
The hotel was designed by Ivan Matušík and was built in 1973. It was named Hotel Kyjev after the capital of Ukraine, and with its 65 meters in height, it was one of the tallest buildings in the Slovak capital.
During the communist era, the hotel had no serious competition in Bratislava. It was often reserved for the most important state guests, including the president of Czechoslovakia, who even had his suite here. After the fall of communism, the hotel remained open. Since the interior was never renovated, the retro style of the hotel became attractive to tourists. The view from the roof was reportedly breathtaking.
But, after the regime change, there was no money to keep up with the other hotels on the market. The hotel changed owners for the last time in 2007, but it closed its doors in 2011. They wanted to demolish it, but due to public pressure, they reconsidered, although the hotel was never declared a monument.
Leaving behind the retro hotel building, we continued our walk. The neighborhood was surrounded by Art Deco-style buildings that were built around the 1920s. I particularly recommend visiting Klemensova Street and admiring these architectural gems.
We arrived at the entrance of Eurovea, a vast shopping center with close to 200 shops. We didn’t visit the complex for shopping purposes but rather for architectural considerations.
It’s a fantastic bright building with plenty of glass surfaces located on the banks of the Danube.
Upon leaving the building, we found ourselves on a modern urban promenade. Here, the vibrancy of the city was noticeable, with locals bustling around. Everyone was enjoying the sunny January weather on the Danube riverbank.
The promenade along the Danube is an executed walkway. It stretches between the Eurovea shopping center and the Lafranconi Bridge. Offering many playgrounds, cafes, and outdoor workout areas along this stretch.
Our next destination was St. Martin’s Cathedral, which we wanted to visit before checking into our accommodation.
St. Martin’s Cathedral, built in the 15th century, is a Gothic cathedral located in the historical part of Bratislava. It is the largest and most significant Roman Catholic church in Bratislava. Eleven Hungarian kings and queens were crowned here. Today, it is the city’s second most popular tourist attraction after Bratislava Castle.
There was no entrance fee to enter the church, although a ticket was required to visit the crypt and the treasury, but it was optional.
Someone was practicing the organ inside the cathedral on Saturday afternoon, which made our visit even more memorable. The old walls were soaked in history. With a little imagination and the support of the wonderful organ music, we were transported back several centuries.
After leaving the church, we also visited Michael’s Gate. It’s the only city gate that has survived the medieval fortifications and is one of the oldest buildings in the city. It was built around 1300, and its current form is the result of the 1758 Baroque reconstruction when the statues of St. Michael and the Dragon were placed on top. The tower houses the City Museum of Bratislava’s Weaponry Exhibition.
Next to Michael’s Gate, in the heart of Bratislava’s historical old town, was our accommodation. The Begli Hotel bears the name of a Hungarian Christmas pastry. Baštová Street, where the hotel is located, is considered the narrowest street in the city. The hotel’s walls are part of the original city fortifications.
We were completely satisfied with our room, which was perfectly sized and equipped. After a short refreshment, we set out to explore the old town, which we intended to conclude with a light dinner.
Bratislava’s historic old town is not too extensive, but architecturally very interesting. The buildings are imbued with history. Every type of visitor will find something here. Those thirsty for culture can choose from several museums and galleries, mainly in Baroque-era historic buildings. While those seeking big city experiences can wander for hours in the lively, bustling pedestrian zone filled with dining options. Or the young seeking only drinks and entertainment will find a developed party culture in the downtown area of Slovakia’s capital.
I would highlight the Main Square (Hlavné námestie), the social center of the city, where several busy pedestrian streets converge. The charming walking area is surrounded by Baroque, Classicist, and Secessionist buildings.
Its main attraction is the Old Town Hall. The Roland Fountain in the middle of the square is a popular meeting place. The fountain has adorned the square since 1572. To the right of the Old Town Hall stands the Rococo building of the Apponyi Palace, which now houses the exhibitions of the City Museum.
As we got hungry after our all-day outdoor stroll, which turned out to be around 13 kilometers (around 2 miles) in the end, we stopped by a small Indian restaurant, where we enjoyed our favorite Indian dishes. Then we returned to our accommodation, and after a pleasant day, thoroughly tired, we laid our heads down for a good night’s sleep.
Second Day
We started the day with a great breakfast at the hotel, which proved to be plentiful and enough, with an adequate selection.
After checking out of the hotel, we headed towards the main attraction of the day, Bratislava Castle, which was about a 15-minute walk away. Bratislava Castle was originally the seat of rulers; today, it is the symbol of Bratislava and the venue of the History Museum. Its terraces offer an incomparable view of the city.
The dignified castle, visible on a hill 80 meters above the Danube, has been a symbol of Bratislava for centuries. The castle hill has been strategically important since ancient times and has so been inhabited. Celts, Romans, Germans, Slavs, and Hungarians have all been here. The current castle dates back to the 13th century. The castle’s largest tower, known as the Crown Tower, dates back to this time. It got its name from the Hungarian coronation jewels, which were stored here from 1552 to 1783. In the 15th century, the original smaller castle was demolished, and the structure that remains standing to this day was erected.
In the following centuries, there were many reconstructions and modifications. The fortress was retroactively built, turning the castle into a stronghold. The last major reconstruction in the 18th century transformed the castle into a luxurious Baroque residence, complete with elegant French gardens. In 1818, a massive fire destroyed the entire area of the castle, leaving it in ruins.
Only in the second half of the 20th century was it renovated. In the past, the castle was the residence of Hungarian kings, and the coronation jewels were stored there.
Visiting the renovated castle is a several-hour program during which you have a fantastic view of Bratislava. On the third floor, in a café that opened recently, we enjoyed a herbal tea while admiring the Danube and the western slopes of the city.
Unfortunately, the Baroque garden was closed, despite the official opening hours, although through the wrought-iron gate, we could catch a glimpse of the impressive garden.
Descending from the castle hill, once again passing through the Old Town, we headed towards our lunch spot. We felt that this day would also be filled with a lot of walking, although the still cloudless, sunny weather favored walking.
We made our way to Nivy Centrum, which is a modern shopping center, a mixed gastronomic area with a year-round food market.
There were plenty of options for lunch, including many vegetarian options. We were surprised by the modern architectural solutions. We felt as if we were in an Emirati shopping mall.
Since our train was leaving at 4:00 p.m. back to Budapest, we started making our way back to the train station through the city.
So, we managed to walk more than 13 kilometers (around 2 miles) on this day as well.
Conclusion and Takeaways
Our two-day exploration of Bratislava, Slovakia’s capital, was a memorable experience filled with historical wonders, architectural marvels, and culinary adventures.
The city’s treasures were unaffected by January’s chilly weather, and we returned home with cherished memories and a fresh appreciation for this Danube gem.
- History: Bratislava’s rich history, evident in its medieval castles, Gothic cathedrals, and Baroque palaces, offers a captivating journey through time. Exploring landmarks like St. Martin’s Cathedral and Bratislava Castle provides a glimpse into the city’s illustrious past.
- Architectural Diversity: From the retro style of Hotel Kyjev to the modern urban quarter of Eurovea, Bratislava boasts a diverse architectural landscape. Wander through the charming streets of the old town adorned with Baroque, Classicist, and Secessionist buildings for a visual feast.
- Culinary Delights: Bratislava’s vibrant gastronomic scene is a delight for food enthusiasts. There is something to satisfy every palate, whether it’s local delicacies at traditional eateries or international flavors at modern establishments. Don’t miss the opportunity to explore vegetarian-friendly options, readily available throughout the city.
- Scenic Beauty: Despite the winter chill, Bratislava’s natural beauty shines through. Stroll along the picturesque Danube promenade, soak in panoramic views from Bratislava Castle’s terraces.
- Ease of Exploration: Bratislava’s compact size and well-connected transportation network make it easy to navigate. Whether on foot, by tram, or via the efficient train system, travelers can effortlessly explore the city’s attractions.
Bratislava is a destination that blends history, culture, and modernity, offering a memorable experience for visitors year-round. I invite you to discover the charm of this stunning city and make your unforgettable journey on its cobblestone streets and vibrant squares.
Thank you for taking the time to read my story.
If you enjoyed the travelogue, you may take a look at my other travel articles, which are sure to captivate you with their similar tone and photos.
Exploring Hungary’s Cultural Gem: An Excursion Through the Countryside
Hello, I’m Jozsef Kovacs. I’m writing about leadership, project management and traveling. Click here if you would like to be notified when I publish.