Discovering Bavaria, Part 2: Norse mythology, beer-making monks, and cruising down the Danube

Continuing my Bavarian journey through some slightly more known sights.

Continuing on from my epic journey with Angels, Eagles, the Nibelungenlied, and a Wonky Bridge, we begin this journey with a little Norse mythology at…

Walhalla

One of the first destinations that my German friend took me to was the incredibly impressive, Walhalla.

Named after a majestic hall in Norse mythology dedicated to those who died in combat and presided over by the god, Odin, Walhalla in Regensburg is a neo-classical monument to honour notable people in German history. On a beautiful site overlooking the Danube River, it was conceived by King Ludwig I of Bavaria (when he was still the Crown Prince) — I told you he shows up everywhere! Construction took place between 1830 and 1842 under the supervision of the architect Leo von Klenze.

The sheer majesty of the massive columns astounded me and the view from the steps was spectacular. It’s a magnificent building and my friend and I had a lovely evening, picnicking on the stairs whilst watching the cruise boats carry tourists down the Danube as the sun set.

I heard many different languages from the settled picnickers as we chose our spot so it appears that this is a regular picnic spot for locals and tourists alike.

Weltenburger Kloster (Monastery)

A new day, a new adventure.

We started with a 6km hike from Kelheim, the town watched over by the Hall of Liberation, and headed for Weltenburger Kloster, a Benedictine monastery situated on the Danube River. It was a beautiful walk, some of it along the Danube, some of it high above the iconic river.

The crossing to Weltenburger Kloster is an experience in itself. It costs €1.50 per person to take the short trip across the swiftly flowing Danube and the boats can be called with a sharp whistle from the visitors’ lips.

The monastery was impressive as it stood alone on the bank of the Danube, and as it dates back to 617, it is believed to be the oldest monastery in Bavaria. Weltenburger Kloster is responsible for two parishes, engages in farming and adult education, and provides event space. It is also considered to be the oldest monastic brewery in the world.

Who doesn’t love drunk monks?

The beauty increased as we entered the courtyard ready to fill our rumbling bellies after the long hike.

We sat down to Obatzda (camembert and butter seasoned with paprika, salt, pepper, and beer), Old Bavarian potato soup, a beautiful caraway seed bread, fish cakes and potato salad for my friend, and of course, beer. The rain came down as we huddled under an umbrella, switching hands as we devoured the delicious food that had been brought forth by a waitress in traditional garb.

The rain let up some and we headed into the monastery’s brewery for a tour — yet again in German with my translator doing an excellent job.

Before we left the monastery we popped into the chapel and I was not prepared for what I found. It is one of the most unique and breathtaking churches I’ve ever seen and unfortunately, my camera didn’t do it justice.

I walked through the chapel slowly, craning my neck up at the intricacy of the Baroque dome, allowing my eyes to drip down the opulence of the façade’s embellishments. It’s an extravagant feast for the eyes.

Trust me, do a Google search!

I will say that the pictures online can’t communicate how incredible it is to be in the chapel — it is worth a visit to the monastery just to experience it alone!

Cruising down the Danube

Rather than hike back to Kelheim, a little wobbly from all the beer, we took a ferry down the Danube which was well-equipped with multiple café counters, some comfy couches, and plenty of seating. The ride back was very picturesque and a recorded voice pointed out interesting facts and information as we passed certain points along the river bank.

Kelheim

Soon we pulled back into the town of Kelheim situated at the confluence of the Altmühl and Danube rivers, and went for a wander through the wonderfully colourful downtown area.

Again we met our friend King Ludwig I of Bavaria — he could make a really good character in a Bavarian drinking game as you spot him around town.

You may not make it out of some cities sober!

As my friend drove me home, tired and yet fulfilled from another amazing day, I wondered where we were off to next.

In case you missed it, have a read through part 1 of my adventures off the beaten track.

You can also take a wander through a vegetarian’s guide to the country known for its meaty contributions.