Discovering Bavaria, Part 1: Angels, Eagles, the Nibelungenlied, and a Wonky Bridge
Exploring off the beaten track.
In August, I found myself slap-bang in Eastern Bavaria reconnecting with a friend I hadn’t seen in thirty years. As her love for her home state is palpable, she made it her mission to show me around, especially local legends off the beaten track.
Together we set out to discover Bavaria.
Hall of Liberation (Befreiungshalle Kelheim)
Of all the places we went, it was this magnificent monument that affected me the most.
The Hall of Liberation was built by King Ludwig I — you find his influence all over Bavaria — as a memorial to commemorate the victories against Napoleon’s army during the Wars of Liberation from 1813 to 1815.
As I approached the incredible structure soaring into the air, the beauty of the building astounded me. The cream facade rising against the blue sky, the perfectly rounded shape sporting statues representing the various Germanic tribes, the columns nestled into the rotunda — it all came together in a perfect example of aesthetic pleasure.
But it was what I found inside that truly took my breath away!
There are a total of thirty-four angels in the rotunda and walking into the building I could feel their power. The angels, or goddesses of victory, are holding bronze shields that bear the names of the battles of the wars of liberation. These spectacular women are carved entirely from marble.
They hold hands in a silent circle of power and I sat before one that called to me, gazing up at her strength with reverence as I asked for safety and guidance, not only for me but for those around me as well.
I have a mild obsession with domed ceilings and this one was nothing less than incredible.
Eighty-three steps take you up to the outer viewing platform which affords a lovely view over the surrounding area, including the Danube River and Altmühl Valley. Heading up a further forty steps, you are led into the inner gallery, and whilst my middle-aged legs felt every one of them, the view was definitely worth it.
I don’t know what it was about this place that affected me so deeply — maybe it was the fact that it was protected by women as opposed to the men you often see when visiting monuments. Women have a silent power that I admire and these goddesses standing strong in their marble casts, holding hands, and vowing protection, exuded beauty in their unwavering strength.
I was delighted to be able to walk up to the angels and run my hand along the marble, feeling every curve and crevice lovingly carved.
This is one experience I won’t forget anytime soon!
Falkenhof Schloss (Falconry), Rosenburg
One rainy morning, we headed off to Falkenhof Schloss in Riedenburg, a privately run falconry located in the Rosenburg Castle, a 12th-century complex that remained mainly in the hands of the House of Wittelsbach, but is now privately run. The castle lies on the back of a mountain overlooking the Altmühltal and has a Museum of Hunting and Falconry within.
We wandered around marvelling at the exquisite birds who gazed right back at us, preparing for the show they were about to star in.
I loved the beauty of this bald eagle and marvelled at the strength and respect that it demanded. The birds are free to come and go as they please whilst the center helps in the preservation and creation of habitats for many species of birds of prey.
We decided to sit in the beer garden and indulge in a little apple strudel and coffee before the falconry demonstration — it was delicious.
Who doesn’t love a little pie?
The show was incredible, and as a vegetarian and animal lover who does not participate in any form of cruelty, I could see that the birds enjoyed performing as much as we enjoyed watching. Apart from the eagle that I was so taken with earlier, this ugly old chap made me laugh as he wandered through the crowd.
Don’t we all know an old man who walks like this?
The show was nothing short of spectacular and you can watch some of it by clicking on this video.
Burg Prunn (Prunn Castle)
After our morning at the falconry, we headed up through a quaint little village to Burg Prunn, a medieval castle perched high above the Altmühl River.
After it was acquired by the Fraunberg knights, it became a cultural center devoted to German poetry. In 1575 the Prunner Codex was discovered in Burg Prunn, a manuscript of the Nibelungenlied, an epic poem written around 1200 in Middle High German by an anonymous poet. The Nibelungenlied is a treasure of German history.
As Burg Prunn is a spot revered by the locals and the tours appeared to only be in German, I assume that this attraction doesn’t get too many foreign tourists.
My friend did an excellent job translating for me as we wandered through the rooms of the old castle.
Holzbrücke (Wooden Bridge) Essing
We stopped by the Holzbrücke Essing on our way home, a curved wooden bridge completed in 1986.
Apparently, according to my friend, it was the longest, uncovered, wooden bridge in Europe until a bridge was built on Lake Zurich in 2001. It has a lovely view over the Main Danube Canal and was fun to walk due to its springy construction.
A great end to a great day.
I hope you enjoyed this little wander through some of Bavaria’s lesser-known attractions. You can continue on to part two and part three of my time in Bavaria as more treasures are discovered.
In the meantime you can take a journey with me through the wonders of Bavarian delicacies.
