TRAVEL TALES | NEW ZEALAND

Cycling Through New Zealand’s Ruggedness

Learning and understanding the hype behind e-bikes was part of the experience

The trail at this point required one hundred percent concentration. The switchbacks were intense, the gravel slippery, and the gradient of the slope rather high. But while every muscle in my body was focused and tense, my eyes were smiling.

I knew we should take this adventure from the day I first read about it. The Dunstan Trail is a 45-kilometer-long trail leading along the final arm of the Clutha River through the Cromwell Gorge and while one can walk or hike it, the most popular way to conquer the distance is by bike.

I spent a bit of time researching and reading about the trail which one can ride from either direction. In the end, we decided on booking with a company that would drop us off in Clyde which would allow us to cycle back to Cromwell where their office was and our car was parked.

We were told to be there by 9:15 am so we could leave with the shuttle at 9:30 am. It was a sunny morning when we walked through the doors of the shop. The owner greeted us, we swiped the credit card and David wrote his name somewhere at the bottom of the paper. I did not even fill out a waiver but couldn’t have cared less.

Before handing us the e-bikes the guy turned around and asked us in a serious voice, “Do you have cycling experience? This is not a Sunday drive.” David and I ensured him we would be fine while thinking back to the last time we both sat on a bike three or four years ago. We were racing each other on the beach road in Namibia and I ended up crashing, cutting open my chin, and needing to go to the emergency room.

We decided this was not part of the information about us we should share with the company.

The bikes were then loaded onto the trailer and we hit the road. The Indian guy, as he introduced himself, told us this was his first quiet day after the holidays and we were their only customers that day.

We discussed various topics like life as an expat in New Zealand, the aftermath of the pandemic, and how he switched professions. We also learned about other things such as how the country lost the Arabian market of tourism to Eastern European countries like Georgia, as our driver mentioned.

He told us about how many crashes happen on the cycling trail, including how he turned away one woman as he decided she didn’t have the skills to do it. She then went with a different company and had such a bad accident that a helicopter had to come rescue her.

I’m not sure if this is his kind of prevention talk to ensure his customers were safe once left alone on the trail. As adventure guides ourselves, we usually avoid such accident conversations.

Anyway, since the road leading down to Clyde located on the other side of the Clutha River offered spectacular views of the trail we would take later on, I managed to shift the conversation a little.

Our driver told us now that this new cycling trail cost over two million New Zealand Dollars. Or was that the money needed for the suspension bridge alone? I can’t remember. Also, within the first year of opening the Dunstan Trail, 85,000 cyclists came for an adventure ride, more than double the numbers the region had expected.

Funny enough, once I was back home trying to read up on the construction of the trail, its cost, and visitor numbers, I spent hours searching the web but found nothing except for trail reviews. I wonder if the Kiwis don’t like to brag about things because this trail is certainly an impressive project whose initial construction was funded by the government and its maintenance is now paid for through donations.

After all this talk, we passed the Clyde Dam and reached the other side of the river. We unloaded our backpacks into the bike’s bags and were shown how to switch on and off the power, as this was after all, our first time riding an e-bike.

Doing one round in the car park to get used to cycling again and being confronted with the new power button, David said “Just treat it like a normal bike.”

We immediately got onto the dirt trail which was the reason for the mountain bike tires. The first sign we passed made me wonder if we were on the right trail but soon I saw the group of kayakers climbing out of the water.

And off we went around the bend and on our own. The trail was rather flat here and I kept the power off as I felt strong and didn’t need additional assistance.

The sky was overcast with only a light breeze blowing and a few birds chirping in the trees as we passed some vegetation. The dammed-up Clutha River lay peaceful in the Cromwell Gorge with barely a ripple reflecting on the water’s surface.

A few kilometers into the trail, a couple walked towards us who looked like they had come straight out of the movie ‘The Notebook’ with Noah smiling at me with his handsome face while holding his girl’s hand and I wondered if this was the only movie I ever watched in full.

Shaking off my thoughts while slowly cruising behind David, I saw the first slight increase in elevation approaching and noticed too late that my gear was too high but remembered I was riding an e-bike. Pressing the button for the eco-power mode, I received just that little bit of a boost to make it up without any struggles. And David who must have done something similar shouted back at me “Wow, that’s amazing how much of a difference the eco mode makes.”

The trail being barely more than two meters wide makes me wonder how one passes incoming traffic, especially on busy days like during the holidays.

The Dunstan Trail is described as a bike adventure for three to five hours but knowing us, we would take a lot longer as we didn’t intend on reaching our destination as soon as possible but enjoying the views and everything we’d encounter along the journey instead.

This was why we stopped only a few kilometers into the trail for the first time. We saw the sportsmen and -women in the water. What I classified earlier as kayaking, are rowing groups training on the calm water of the Clutha River. A boat was with them which was possibly the coach giving the feedback and instructions via a megaphone.

We hopped back on our bikes and cruised along the river hugging the side of the mountain. Shrubland with few bushes were dominant in the vegetation in the area and I remember reading about this part of Central Otago having no trees when the early settlers arrived who needed wood to build homes and keep a fire going. I guess one could see the landscape as barren but one could also see it alive if looking at all the tiny flowers blooming around.

The landscape was now getting more rugged as the trail was cutting into the cliffs requiring our full attention. With only a few ups and downs so far, we kept the speed low ensuring we could slow down for the next unexpected turn or bend.

Barriers were far and few in between and more than once was I driving straight toward the water knowing if I’d come around that hill too fast, I’d be launching into the air.

Thinking back at our landlords who told us of a bike or two resting in peace at the bottom of the river, I no longer believe it’s just an old man’s tale.

Getting back into the feeling of cycling, my thoughts were transported back to my childhood days when I grew up on bikes crossing the countryside. Those were fun times.

Yes, I’m certainly no stranger to the bicycle and do enjoy the feeling of gliding across the rough landscape. The trail is mostly made of tiny pebbles not leaving in question the danger of braking too hard or turning too quickly at the wrong times.

Taking one turn and hugging the mountain a little faster than the first one, I felt an exhilarating feeling but was forced to stop soon after as David was standing in the middle of the trail.

“Is that sheep real? It can’t be real, can it?”

David wasn’t referring to the fact that one doesn’t see a gazillion sheep when anywhere in New Zealand but in this turn where a private road was leading up a hill, a sheep was standing appearing as if it was frozen in time and stone.

I slowly rolled backward just to notice its head moving a tenth of a degree and told David it was just the gatekeeper protecting its land from disrespectful tourists.

Back on the trail we were mastering our first longer downhill when two other bikers came toward us. As soon as we were a bit further down David asked me "Did you see the looks on their faces when they saw our e-bikes?"

Not my fault they were sweating and swearing while fighting their way up with their mountain bikes.

Finding a little offroad trail up on the plateau we were on now, we didn't hesitate to follow its line up to the cliffs. We got off the bikes for a bathroom break and a photo stop.

After sharing an energy bar and drinking some water, we cycled back up again. David mentioned how he wasn't tired or thirsty at all but knew he had to stay hydrated regardless.

Not having judged people with e-bikes before but also not knowing why one should own one, we now began to understand the hype around these power-driven bicycles.

Even though David disagreed, I am quite convinced we would not have been able to master this trail without the help of the battery in our bikes. For someone who doesn't cycle regularly but certainly knows how to ride a bike, this additional power allows for longer trips.

Also, an e-bike is not like an e-scooter where you just press a button and sit back and relax. You still need to cycle. Without the movement of your legs, your bike will go nowhere.

And as the morning proceeded, we reached the second set of switchbacks. Going downhill, I had my hands on both brakes as I got close to the turn and slowly glided around the corner.

While I desperately tried to take in the views from atop to bike, while rolling downhill on this trail with barely any barriers, my eyes needed to remain on the ground ahead of me.

Just as we reached the bottom of the hill, the cute little coffee shop and burger joint were inviting us for a break. Remembering what the driver told us this morning, we ordered the "venison & thyme burger" and shared a delicious meal while sitting down by the river.

What a creative business idea to bring two boats into this bay and invite tired cyclists for a rewarding break.

Sharing the burger was a great idea as our stomachs were settled but not overfilled and we had power again to move on.

The highlight of the Dunstan Trail, the earlier mentioned 'Hugo Suspension Bridge' was awaiting us a few more kilometers down the trail. Stretching across a narrow but deep gorge, this bridge had been built while the material was hanging down from helicopters. Engineering at its highest level I would say.

Cycling across it, I noticed as I looked down between the wooden planks how high this bridge was after all. It was swaying a little requiring me to hold the steering tightly.

The trail was now getting busier as many cyclists were passing us riding in the opposite direction. One of the advantages of cycling up from Clyde in the direction we did it is that one has the challenging parts at the beginning of the trail and a rather flat cycle out of the gorge toward the end.

Soon after, first one lone bicycle on the one side, then another one on the other side of the trail, and an entire group blocking most of the trail was requiring us to react quickly and swerve around the action.

It seemed as if a girl in the Chinese group had fallen but I could only see minor scratches on her legs. I didn't even think of stopping and considering if help was needed as she had an entire crowd collected around her including one guy in the middle of the trail filming her as she was crying in the corner.

I wanted to say and do a lot of things but just cycled past and hoped no more cyclists would be in danger due to the obstacle the group was creating. They were already on the phone with the rescue team and I hoped would soon get out of the way.

While we were now starting to feel our bums despite the comfy seats, we got off once more in a scenic corner of the trail. Sitting down on some rocks and having moved our bicycles off the trail, we spoke about the accident we had just passed and how that group didn't look like they'd be able to complete this trail as they hadn't even reached the challenging parts of it.

The Dunstan Trail has several grade 3 biking sections which are only suggested for intermediate cyclists but as our guide stated earlier, many ignore all warnings or simply overestimate their skills.

Reaching Bannockburn and many vineyards lining our sides while we turned to now cycle upstream the Kawarau River until the bridge, we added one more stop when the trail let through Carrick Winery.

With a glass of white wine in hand, we couldn't resist the small cheese platter while overlooking the Bannockburn Inlet where paddlers were on the water and youngsters flew across the river with their water skis.

From here on, we had an easy ride up to the bridge while keeping an eye on the scenic landscape features of the vineyards and hills covered in now-dried wild thyme.

After the bridge, David asked me if I wanted to take the straight road back to town or continue the trail along the river. Enjoying the beautiful ride through small forests lined with golden poppies and the turquoise blue river on the other side, we were glad we decided to stick with the trail.

It left us wondering why the guide repeatedly told us to cycle straight back the road leaving this beautiful part of the trail out.

Just as we got home and both sat on the loungers, David exclaimed

"I'm not gonna lie, I'm tired. I can feel this trip in my bones. I know you, ever fit and always active probably didn't see this as much exercise but I feel pretty tired now."

I was laughing. At him, at him realizing how exhausting it was after initially saying thanks to the power of the e-bike, he could ride forever, and at the fact I was also tired.

Even if our bikes were power-assisted, we still needed to cycle 45 kilometers. And our bodies did feel that. While our faces were still smiling.

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