avatarB.R. Shenoy

Summary

The web content details a photographic journey through La Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires, Argentina, highlighting its historical significance, architectural beauty, and notable interments.

Abstract

The article "Exploring La Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires, Argentina: A Photographic Journey" provides a vivid account of the author's visit to one of the world's most beautiful cemeteries. Established in 1852 and spanning 14 acres, La Recoleta Cemetery is home to over 6,400 mausoleums, including the tombs of famous Argentinians like Eva Perón and Rufina Cambacérès. The cemetery's design resembles a miniature city, with blocks of diverse mausoleums ranging from simple to grandiose. The author, accompanied by a knowledgeable tour guide, explores the cemetery's history and the stories of its inhabitants, emphasizing the cultural and architectural significance of the site. The article also touches on the personal experiences of the author, such as the eerie feeling of seeing neglected vaults and the poignant tale of Rufina Cambacérès, who was allegedly buried alive. The visit concludes with reflections on the serene atmosphere and the cemetery's role as a historical repository, recommending it as a must-see for visitors to Buenos Aires.

Opinions

  • The author expresses a deep appreciation for the cemetery's beauty and historical value, initially skeptical about spending time in a cemetery but ultimately captivated by its uniqueness.
  • The article conveys the author's fascination with the detailed craftsmanship of the mausoleums and the contrast between the well-maintained and the dilapidated vaults.
  • The author finds the story of Eva Perón's burial particularly intriguing, noting the simplicity of her tomb amidst the grandeur of the cemetery.
  • The tale of Rufina Cambacérès's alleged premature burial is presented with a sense of eeriness and empathy, highlighting the emotional impact of the cemetery's history.
  • The author recommends visiting La Recoleta Cemetery, emphasizing its significance as both a tourist attraction and a place of quiet reflection.
  • The article suggests that the cemetery offers a peaceful escape from the bustling city, providing a space for both historical exploration and personal contemplation.

TRAVEL/PHOTOGRAPHY/INSPIRATION

Exploring La Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires, Argentina: A Photographic Journey

Capturing the uniqueness and beauty of one of the world’s most remarkable cemeteries

Credit: B.R. Shenoy

“The cemetery is an open space among the ruins, covered in winter with violets and daisies. It might make one in love with death, to think that one should be buried in so sweet a place.” — Percy Bysshe Shelley

My husband and I recently spent a week in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

We were fortunate to stay in a hotel in the Recoleta neighborhood, which is only a 20-minute walk from the city center and near tourist attractions such as the Obelisk and the Colon theatre.

Recoleta is widely regarded as the most affluent neighborhood in Buenos Aires. It also has historical significance, thanks to the remarkable La Recoleta Cemetery.

I don’t usually spend my time in cemeteries. However, because the tour guide recommended La Recoleta Cemetery and it sounded interesting, I decided to go with her while my husband was at a business meeting.

La Recoleta Cemetery

La Recoleta Cemetery is located in the Palermo neighborhood and was founded in 1852. This cemetery is truly breathtaking, ranking among the world’s top ten most beautiful cemeteries.

My tour guide was highly knowledgeable and provided me with a detailed account of the cemetery and many of its inhabitants, including generals, soldiers, politicians, commanders, athletes, business people, and physicians.

It is the final resting place for many famous Argentinians, including Eva Peron, Juan Peron, Nobel winner Luis F. Leloir, and Isabel Walewski Colonna, grandchild of Napoleón Bonaparte.

The 14-acre site, which contains over 6,400 mausoleums, is surrounded by high walls. The cemetery is designed to look like a miniature city.

The numerous blocks are lined with mausoleums ranging from simple to grand to one-of-a-kind. Some are well-kept and impressive. The attention to detail in each beautiful tomb distinguishes the cemetery. In terms of design and luxury, each family outperforms the previous one.

Many have coffins and urns on display. Some are multi-leveled and have underground rooms.

However, other vaults have become dilapidated. Seeing the burial vessels exposed to the elements within seemingly abandoned structures was heartbreaking.

Credit: B.R. Shenoy

The Tomb of Eva Perón

It was interesting to see the simple and unassuming Duarte family mausoleum where Eva Peron’s remains are kept, with fresh flowers left in front of the structure daily. According to our tour guide, her mausoleum is the most visited in the Recoleta Cemetery.

Eva Perón, President Juan Perón’s celebrated second wife, died of cancer in 1952. Following her death, a monument was constructed to house her body. However, Juan Perón was deposed in a military coup, and Eva’s body mysteriously vanished for 16 years.

The military revealed in 1971 that Eva’s body had been buried under a fictitious name in a crypt in Milan, Italy.

When Juan Perón died in 1974, his third wife became President of Argentina and had Eva’s body returned to Argentina, where it was later interred in the La Recoleta Cemetery. Eva is buried in a heavily fortified crypt five meters underground to protect her remains.

Credit: B.R. Shenoy
Credit: B.R. Shenoy
Credit: B.R. Shenoy

The Mausoleum of Rufina Cambacérès

The Tomb of Rufina Cambacérès depicts a life-size statue of the girl holding the door to the mausoleum that imprisoned her while staring out at the cemetery.

According to legend, Rufina was getting ready for a night out in Buenos Aires in 1902, on her nineteenth birthday, when she lost consciousness and collapsed. Three doctors declared her dead, and she was placed in a coffin, given a funeral, and buried in Recoleta Cemetery.

Per the legend, a cemetery worker noticed the coffin had moved a few days later. He opened the casket, suspecting a grave robbery, and discovered scratch marks on the inside.

Rufina had been buried alive, awoken in her tomb, and attempted to flee by smashing and scratching the door before passing out from cardiac arrest.

Similar to many “buried alive” tales, it can be challenging to distinguish fact from fiction, and Rufina’s tale is told with various embellishments. According to one version, her initial “death” was brought on by the shocking news that her boyfriend had been having a relationship with his mother.

Credit: B.R. Shenoy

Tomb of Liliana Crociati de Szaszak

The tomb of Liliana Crociati de Szaszak was fascinating due to its unusual design.

Liliana Crociati de Szaszak (1944–1970) was on her honeymoon in Innsbruck, Austria, when she was killed by an avalanche that hit the hotel where she was staying in the 1970s.

Her parents rebuilt her bedroom within her tomb and erected a bronze statue of Liliana in her wedding gown, with her beloved pet dog, Sabo, by her side, at the entrance.

Apparently, people rub the dog’s nose for good luck. On this particular day, a tour group of schoolchildren took turns rubbing the dog’s nose.

Credit: B.R. Shenoy

Final Thoughts

On this weekday afternoon, the cemetery was not overcrowded. I enjoyed the solitude, the peaceful atmosphere, and the history lessons.

The walk was very scenic, and I was tempted to take pictures at every turn. I spent an hour with the tour guide exploring the different tombs and their designs.

La Recoleta is a must-see in Buenos Aires. I encourage everyone to visit it if they make a trip to Argentina.

Do you have a favorite cemetery you like to visit? Please share your thoughts in the comments.

More of my photo essays on Argentina:

Photography
Inspiration
This Happened To Me
Travel
Travel Writing
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