我在尼泊爾看見鄉愁
尼泊爾人非常laid back,因為基礎建設不穩固,意外是日常生活中的一部分,因此尼人練就了極佳的耐性與平常心,無論遇到何種扯事,反應總是不慍不火。機場跳電了,等一下吧;塞車了,等一下吧;下雨了,不然先來杯茶吧。
對既存事實的接受與包容心,不也是禪的道理嗎?我覺得在這裡很容易進入心流,在漫長的等待時間裡望著遠山發呆,我既無期待亦心無懸念,只是純粹的等著,將自己忘記在這個時空裡。
旅居在奶茶的國度對於定居美國的我可謂奢侈,不管上哪總頻繁被奉茶。每天最奢侈的煩惱是今天上限可以喝幾杯不然實在太胖,無怪乎日日心情都跟奶茶一樣滑順。有茶陪伴的地方心總是安定。
廠商問我,中國人跟台灣人有什麼差別,我說,最直接簡單的類比,好比印度人跟尼人的不同。廠商馬上會心一笑。
印度觀光區的店家,遇到觀光客通常會使出全身解數死纏爛打,漫天喊價不曉得要從哪裡喊起,妳不買他還會追出店裡丟一個破盤價給妳。
尼泊爾則不同,雖然一樣缺錢想做生意,但尼泊爾人很懶於跟你談價格,如果你用一樣的態度對待尼人,他們可能只會心裡覺得這觀光客有點沒禮貌,頭搖一搖就算了讓你去吧。
第三次回到加德滿都,這次心情特別的平靜,我心無成見地回到這塊群山環繞的谷地,看到遠山,看到河,沿河而建的違章建築,聞到晨間家家戶戶敬拜一日之始的焚香,剎那間我彷彿以為搭了時光機回到90年代的台北,那個交通猶為混亂、萬物快速成長、凡事都是機會、抬頭遠眺仍能完整看見遠山的台北。某種程度,這更像回到故鄉。


— Nepal
Nepalese are very laid back and used to uncertainties being part of their daily life due to the unstable infrastructure in the country.
They have therefore developed excellent patience and a peaceful mind. If there was a power outage, let’s wait a moment; if there was a traffic jam, let’s wait a moment; if it started raining, why not have a cup of tea first?
Their acceptance and tolerance of existing facts remind me of the principles of Zen. I could easily get into a flow state in Nepal — looking at distant mountains in a daze during a long wait, having neither expectations nor suspense, just merely waiting, forgetting myself in this time and space.
Unlike in the US where milk tea is a luxury, tea is served in Nepal wherever I go. The most pressing problem I face daily here is deciding how many cups of Chiya I can drink to not gain too much weight. When there is tea, my mind is at peace.
I got asked by a Nepali manufacturer about the differences between Chinese and Taiwanese. My answer was simple — the most straightforward analogy is the difference between Indians and Nepalese. The manufacturer got it, nodded, and smiled.
Shopkeepers in tourist areas in India do everything they can to convince tourists to make a purchase. I usually have no idea where to start bargaining with prices all over the place. And if you left without buying anything, they’d chase you out and offer a huge markdown.
It is different in Nepal. Although Nepalese are also eager for business, they are too laid back to negotiate. They sometimes find tourists bargaining rude and will pass on a transaction with a head shake.
This is the third time I have visited Kathmandu and I am feeling serene this time. I returned to this valley surrounded by mountains without prejudice. I see the distant mountains, rivers, and illegal buildings built alongside the streams. I smell the incense burning at dawn as a ritual to begin the day in every household.
For a moment, I felt like I had ridden a time machine back to Taipei in the 1990s, where traffic was still chaotic, where everything was proliferating, and where every place was full of opportunities. When I looked up, I could still see the distant mountains in Taipei.
In a way, it feels more like home.
