Photography, Adventure, and the American West
Zion Canyon — Landscapes of Light and Texture
A photographic tribute to leader and explorer Major John Wesley Powell and the crews of the Colorado River expeditions of 1869 and 1871–1872
In 1855, 21-year-old John Wesley Powell rowed 1,800 miles of the Mississippi River from St. Anthony Falls to the Gulf of Mexico. Before he joined the Union Army in 1861 to fight in the Civil War, he hiked across Wisconsin. He also rowed hundreds more miles of the Ohio, Illinois, Mississippi, and Des Moines rivers.
While serving as a major in the Battle of Shilo, a Minié ball struck Powell’s right wrist. Doctors amputated his arm. He remained in the army and received permission for his wife, first cousin Emma Dean, to go with him. He was present at the siege of Vicksburg and the battles of Champion Hill and Big Black River Bridge.
As a voyager and geologist, Powell’s exploits prepared him for adventure. So, in 1869 he led the Powell Geographic Expedition. He and nine other men explored the Green and Colorado rivers in wooden boats. The rapids of the Grand Canyon must have frightened them, but the scenery should have amazed them.
Newspaper reports of the trip made Powell famous. Following in an excerpt from his book, “Canyons of the Colorado.”
“On my return from the first exploration of the canyons of the Colorado, I found that our journey had been the theme of much newspaper writing. A story of disaster had been circulated, with many particulars of hardship and tragedy, so that it was currently believed throughout the United States that all the members of the party were lost save one. A good friend of mine had gathered a great number of obituary notices, and it was interesting and rather flattering to me to discover the high esteem in which I had been held by the people of the United States. In my supposed death I had attained to a glory which I fear my continued life has not fully vindicated.” — J.W. Powell, Ph.D., L.L.D., in his book “Canyons of the Colorado,” first published in 1895
Photography was not part of the 1869 expedition. But Powell hired three photographers for the expedition of 1871–1872. The journey retraced the original route. Crew members produced an accurate map, various papers, and photographs.
The boat crews followed the Colorado River to its confluence with the Virgin River in Utah Territory. Then, they explored and photographed the Virgin River Valley, including Zion Canyon.
“Major Powell was a man of prompt decision, with a cool, comprehensive, far-reaching mind. He was genial, kind, never despondent, always resolute, resourceful, masterful, determined to overcome every obstacle.” — Frederick S. Dellebaugh, “A Canyon Voyage”
The walls of the 16-mile-long Zion Canyon rise to 3,000 feet at the Temple of Sinawava. Now located within Zion National Park, much of the gorge is accessible by road. But the park offers opportunities for day hikes and backpacking, too.
I take self-propelled camping trips by bicycle, foot, or canoe every year. The adventures pale when compared to those Powell led. But they have met my criteria to balance excitement with risk. In all cases, I carry a camera.
I have never used a large-format view camera like the one John Hiller and the other photographers employed on the second Powell expedition. Imagine the effort to transport his camera and gear on a wilderness expedition and the time and labor needed to process each photograph.
The Virgin River, assisted by wind, rain, and ice, has carved features into the sandstone of Zion over millennia. Casual tourists, hikers, nature lovers, and nature photographers feast their eyes on its visual buffet every day.
The era of expeditions into unexplored terrestrial territories may have passed. But photography allows us to peer back to points in time.
Learn More About John Wesley Powell and the Colorado River Expeditions
Thank you to Rodrigo S-C, Duvy McGirr, and GE McKerrihan for publishing Full Frame and for editing its writers’ works. I look forward to becoming a part of this photographic community.
