Xian to Beijing on a Overnight Sleeper Train
As high-speed rail develops, traditional sleeper trains are fast becoming a relic of China’s past. So, don’t be afraid to try one out on your journey to China before they are gone.
China has many different classes of train and this one was the ‘Z’ train. This Z train was no old rattler, it was clean and very comfortable.
Apparently, it’s wise to buy train tickets in advance so I did so a couple of days ahead of leaving Xian and had no trouble getting a ticket.
The train trip takes just over 11 hours and leaves Xian just before 7.30PM. My choice was to have a hard seat, soft seat, hard sleeper or soft sleeper, the thought of falling asleep to the sound of a train going along its tracks sounds pretty inviting, so, I went with the soft sleeper.
Xian Train Station Xian Station is one busy little place, like really busy! The crowds of people sitting around waiting and moving in and out are staggering. At first glance, it looks like chaos but like most things in China, it turns out to be semi-organized harmonious chaos.
Working out where to go can be a bit of a challenge, with so many people it's hard to actually even find any signs let alone find any that have an English translation. But simply flashing your ticket at an official looking person and having a stupid look on your face seems to get arms pointing and waving in the direction you need to be going.
It turns out simply head into the center of the building with the rest of the herd of people and go through the x-ray check then head towards the left-hand far corner of the entry floor. There should be a guy standing there to check your ticket on your way into what is the Soft Seat ticket holder waiting lounge. Fortunately, it’s not so chaotic in there, and there are some very comfortable chairs.
Xian to Beijing on the Z20 with Soft Sleeper ticket
In the cabins there are four separate bunk style beds each with fresh blanket and pillow. There is also a small table between the two lower beds with a decanter of hot water and four glasses.
The mattresses are comfortable and I had a top bunk, this seemed to be the best option as the bottom bunks double as seats until everyone decides that they want to retire.
For the trip to Beijing, I shared the cabin with three uni students, I’m not to sure that they were all that comfortable with a foreigner at first, and they spoke little English, or were shy to do so.
After helping each other stack some of the luggage into the racks at the ends of the top bunks they seemed a little more relaxed. The three students were quiet, and laid back, but you could easily hear the loud and rambunctious conversation from nearby cabins, glad I wasn’t in one of those cabins.
Fortunately, at around eleven it mostly went quite bar the clattering and banging of a few people still stumbling around for whatever reason. But you’re in China, so you’ve got earplugs anyway, right? I don’t go anywhere without them! Regardless, it wasn’t a bad nights sleep.
There’s also a dining car on the train, but when I looked in there for breakfast it seemed to be a de facto sleeping area, with bodies sprawled across the seats. Maybe they didn’t like their fellow cabin partners! I’ll remember this trick if needed on a later journey!
In the morning a stewardess knocks on the door and alerts us that we are nearing arrival and everyone gathers their belongings in readiness.
Beijing West Train Station
The train arrives at Beijing West station which is pretty easy to navigate with clear instructions and signage with English translations. As you exit the Beijing Station there are Left Luggage rooms and plenty of taxi drivers touting for business, they seem like they are best ignored.
The station is monolithic, when you get across the road don't forget to turn back and get a pic of this amazing station.
[WTC 6] — This is the sixth part of a series covering what was to become a six-year journey through China, and into Chinese life and culture. I truly welcome you to follow me as I share those experiences and insights into this fascinating country.