SOUTHERN AFRICA 2023: DAY 18 — ZIMBABWE

Where a Dam Wall Created the Largest Man-Made Lake in the World

Between two African countries

It's still early in the morning as I'm lying in bed listening to the rolling thunder. Yes, today the rain will come. But I'm not worrying as our setup is rainproof.

Half an hour later, as I am downstairs in the gazebo making tea and coffee lightning joins the regular sound of thunder. The storm is now very close.

I’m placing just a few more rocks outside the gazebo to have extra power keeping it down and then the first raindrops arrive.

The rain arrives slowly but it’s the kind of rain that can go on for days. I’m dry underneath the gazebo enjoying my cup of tea and breakfast while listening to the soothing sound of raindrops falling onto the gazebo.

With my last bite of bacon and eggs, a thunder strikes right above our heads. The first sound was that loud but the initial bang goes on for several seconds and the echo of the thunder keeps going back and forth the valley for more than a minute.

Now, that was scary.

But this is what our way of traveling and lifestyle in the outdoors is like. You're there. In the rain. In the sun. In the storms. Dependent on the elements of nature. Experiencing the power of mother earth with no excuses.

What we’re going to do today you are asking? Probably listening to the rain until it stops. If it does.

But this is Africa. It will rain one moment and the sky will look like the world will end and the next moment the sun is shining and the skies are blue.

It didn't take long and we were out and about exploring what felt like an island to us. Yes, it was difficult to grasp we were somewhere far inland on the African continent and not on an island somewhere in Southeast Asia. Because that's what it looks like.

Until those zebras are walking on the road in front of you. Then you'll know again where you are.

Even though it takes a bit of effort leaving camp as we have to break down our rooftop tent, it was well worth it doing so today. We headed toward the harbor of Kariba just before lunch and struggled a bit to find a place but eventually settled in Captain’s Cove. A small restaurant located on the edge of town overlooking the harbor.

Hippos were in sight during our meal. Just a few meters away from our car grazing on a lush green lawn. They are there. Right in the busy harbor. And there's a large crocodile too. We were told.

After finishing our meal, we continued our exploration trip. The town was rather dead and as it was the low season, a lot of houses, boats and establishments were under renovation.

We followed a small road on a peninsula until it stopped at the bottom of a hill. Walking a few meters down the path we then stumbled upon crystal-clear water.

Lake Kariba is currently far from its maximal size but the water level is steadily increasing as it rains in the inflow areas.

As pretty as this lake looks, it’s such a teaser to me as the water certainly looks more than inviting. I’d love to go for a swim but with the out-of-control crocodile and hippo population in the water, this isn’t even a thought.

Instead, I’m just walking around under the watchful eyes of David who doesn’t allow me to get too close to the water level even if I say I can see through this crystal clear water and don’t see any danger.

Rather safe than sorry.

Just as I am close to the water taking pictures of some plants growing out of the rocks, a big splash right in front of me makes me jump back. David was standing behind me throwing a rock into the water to prove his point. Funny guy.

And as there is nothing else to do but enjoy the beauty with our eyes, we turn around and head back to the car. The sun is seriously strong and it’unbearablyle hot. Which makes the thought of a cooling splash even more appealing.

Passing broken down vehicles, more windy roads and a township in between, we head further on to get to the viewpoint overlooking the famous dam that holds this lake together.

Thinking of the size of this lake, we are certainly surprised to see how small the dam wall is that holds all the water on the other side. But smartly positioned in between the mountain ranges of Zambia and Zimbabwe, this dam is incredibly powerful.

The actual dam wall is under construction and I'm not sure if you can walk on it currently but we were happy enough to see it from the surrounding hills.

The scenic view from above was spectacular. Down below you can see the leftover of the Zambezi that was such a thunderous river up at Victoria Falls and is now not more than a calm water. Most of its power and water gets lost in Kariba Lake.

We're following one more windy road up these hills on the lake shore leading us to another viewpoint. Just a little higher. Seeing the lake from up there certainly makes us feel we're on the ocean with countless islands in the middle.

Highlands are bordering the lake on most parts of the shore and flat lands turned into lush green meadows. Perfect grazing grounds for hippos and tanning spots for crocodiles.

Since David said I had taken already too many pictures on this trip of him and us together, you’re only getting a selfie from me today.

Back at camp, we had a very silent visitor I almost missed. Hidden in the bushes, he slowly moved toward the terrace of the campsite and then turned back into the bushes.

What a gentle giant.

And here's the video of part three of our trip through Southern Africa: the best of Zimbabwe:

We’re currently touring southern Africa and if you’d like to follow, go through this list of stories from our road trip:

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