TRAVEL TALES | NEW ZEALAND

When the Magic Unfolded at the Bottom of the Glacier

Where turquoise blue water emerged and icebergs were floating around

While we could see the glacier for a while now, it was breathtaking standing right at its feet where a river of the deepest turquoise blue water was coming out of the white wall. Two small icebergs were floating in the small lake and I didn’t know why but I had the desire to jump in.

Most people had left the hut already when we got our things together for the hike to the glacier but most other people also do in one day or two what we split into three days.

Why?

Because we don’t want to rush any of it and enjoy the experience to the fullest. Spreading the hike on three days, we had the entire day today to get to the glacier, play around and then return to the hut. No more or less.

Just as we were leaving for the hike, we heard a helicopter approaching and quickly worried about an accident in the mountains but before we could think of possible scenarios, the chopper swooped from the valley below and touched down meters from us without any previous hovering.

The crew got off and soon made their way to the long-drop toilet. And that was when we understood what they were here for. We knew this had to be done but had never watched it before. When the tanks get full, they have to be emptied and transported away by a helicopter.

And this was what we were now watching. First, they attached the rope onto the helicopter which then took off, hovering high above the toilet where the ground crew was now attaching one tank and within seconds, the chopper was gone and reappeared minutes later again. With an empty tank.

What an interesting maneuver to witness even if not a nice job, it has to be done.

Soon enough, the helicopter and the crew were gone and we were back on our hike. The beginning was tough. I’m not gonna lie. Even without a backpack (David was carrying our daypack with provisions, water and the first aid kit), I struggled on the steep trail up which was no longer an official hiking path but rather a route recommended only for experienced mountaineers.

This summer only, several rescues had to happen on this stretch but knowing that didn’t make us any more cautious than we were already. We had seen enough unprepared tourists attempting challenging hikes and know these are the reasons why the DOC writes out such warnings.

Following one cairn (rock stack) after the other, we slowly made our way up the mountain. Watching our steps mostly on the sometimes swampy sometimes rocky trail, we enjoyed the views of the surrounding mountains whenever we stopped to catch our breaths.

At one of those stops, we remained breath- and speechless as the full length of the Brewster Glacier was coming into sight. We were still far but from this point on, we knew all the struggle would be worth it.

At noon, we reached the glacier viewpoint where most day hikers turned around and while the clouds were closing in around us, they didn’t look too threatening or dangerous to force us to turn around.

However, from here on not even the faintest trail was leading to the base of the glacier. Scrambling and sliding across the smooth and sometimes steep from glacial force deformed boulders was the only way to get down.

David was taking the lead and when I asked him if he knew or saw the path, he responded with “all paths lead to Rome, or the glacier”. And so we did get to the lake below Brewster Glacier just half an hour later.

The three local Kiwi girls we met the night before at the hut and also stayed two nights like us to enjoy the day up here were cheering us on as we got undressed to dive into the freezing water.

Because if I was to swim in this river flowing out of the glacier I was to do it now while still heated from the hike and excited by the views.

I took the lead and slid over the smooth glacial rocks into the turquoise blue ice water where my body quickly turned into a shock state. All I had in mind was to swim to the iceberg and touch it but all of a sudden I felt so small and vulnerable, didn’t trust the current ahead and opted for the smaller one on the left instead.

I stood up next to the floating ice since the lake was shallow on this end, screamed and laughed while I touched the iceberg, and then quickly made my way out of the freezing cold water.

And in case you are wondering. No, I did not regret going in. I received a higher rush of adrenaline than when I jump out of a plane and it was so worth it.

David headed in after me and performed in a very similar way just a much deeper voice with more swearing replacing my screaming.

But one has to be careful when swimming in glacial rivers. More than a few hikers have been found washed down the cliffs days later. A river leaving the glacier has a temperature of zero degrees (32°F) and one will experience hypothermia in less than a few minutes in such waters. We also just agreed on going in, knowing the sun was shining and would warm and dry us afterward even if the temperature surrounding the glacier wasn’t much warmer at possibly no more than 10°C (50°F).

We had carried towels with us and dried our bodies off as soon as we got out. Sitting back on the rocks, we snacked on some food while the sun slowly began to warm our core again. The bigger and thicker clouds had mostly disappeared but we decided to pack up and explore the surroundings a bit more.

Looking up at the with-crevices scattered glacier, we saw two other familiar souls, the English guy and his Chilean friend, walk across the white sheet of ice with nothing more but a water bottle in their hands and a towel swung over the shoulder.

We shook our heads and mentioned again those rescue events. Because of hikers like them. Negligence deluxe. The ice looks solid so let’s walk on it. Bad idea. Especially without spikes, ropes and rescue equipment. Nobody will get you out of there in time if you slip. But other people’s stupidity shouldn’t affect my mood and feelings.

I’m here to enjoy myself and just look at this ice cave. It’s raining from the roof and deep inside, a waterfall shoots out of the ice. We listen to the not-so-silent dripping and dropping while also hearing some cracking of the ice now and then.

Walking further around the end of the glacier, we pass the girls again who tell us to head up on the side to a really cool cave where you can and should lick the ice.

To lick a glacier must be a thing but since I don’t want my tongue to be stuck on the ice, I opted to touch the point where the water is dropping down. Cold water for sure. And still, David and I were having fun like children on a playground all while staying off the glacier and its dangers.

Our last mission was to fill up our water packs with the freshest and coldest water one can get on Earth. When the water pack was full, David was busy stowing it in the bag when he mentioned the pipe was frozen. Almost.

Following the girls at a distance, we now took a different route along the glacial stream leading to another set of lakes, more turquoise blue waters and plenty of wildflowers.

Late afternoon, we reached the hut again, happily knowing this was as far as we’d have to walk that day, looking at all the others who still had the long downhill descent to the car park ahead.

After a late lunch, we sat outside on the terrace of the hut, laughing and chatting while watching the sun set behind the mountains.

Another amazing day was coming to an end.

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