avatarAnne Bonfert

Summary

A travel essay describes an adventurous hike through the Elbe Sandstone Mountains in the Czech Republic, featuring unexpected challenges and the beauty of nature.

Abstract

The travel essay recounts a day's journey through the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, where the author and their companion, David, encounter rock climbers, lush forests, and stunning sandstone formations. The narrative includes moments of serenity, such as enjoying lunch atop a rock formation with views of the mountains, as well as moments of excitement and fear, like abseiling down a tree to find a shortcut. The essay captures the essence of an unplanned adventure, the thrill of navigating through uncharted terrain, and the tranquility of camping amidst nature, with references to the author's previous visit to the region in 1999.

Opinions

  • The author expresses a sense of wonder and appreciation for the unique landscape of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, emphasizing its beauty from both ground level and the perspective gained by launching a drone.
  • There is a hint of humor and irony in the recounting of the "shortcut" that involved abseiling down a tree, highlighting the unpredictable nature of their adventure.
  • The author seems to enjoy the thrill of the unexpected, as indicated by the excitement surrounding the discovery of the shortcut and the subsequent descent.
  • The essay conveys a love for nature and the outdoors, with numerous references to the sounds of birds, the fresh air, and the overall serenity of the environment.
  • The author values the experience of being fully immersed in nature, as evidenced by the detailed descriptions of the surroundings and the emotions elicited by the hike.
  • There is a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction in overcoming the challenges presented by the terrain, as well as a deep connection to the place, reinforced by the personal history of visiting the mountains as a child.

TRAVEL ESSAY. THE CZECH REPUBLIC.

When the Famous Words “I Know a Shortcut” Lead to Abseiling Down a Tree

Because we can’t follow a hiking trail from start to finish

Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

We woke up that morning listening to the birds singing in the trees above our car. We ate breakfast and drove on. A little further into the Czech Republic. Our destination for the day was a camp deep inside the Elbe Sandstone Mountains.

“The Elbe Sandstone Mountains, also called the Elbe Sandstone Highlands, are a mountain range straddling the border between the state of Saxony in southeastern Germany and the North Bohemian region of the Czech Republic, with about three-quarters of the area lying on the German side. In both countries, core parts of the mountain range have been declared a national park. The name derives from the sandstone which was carved by erosion. The river Elbe breaks through the mountain range in a steep and narrow valley.” — Wikipedia

Driving along windy roads through the mountains, we got to the camp before lunchtime just as we turned off on a small pond. We couldn’t check in yet, but left the car in the parking and headed out.

The pond in front of the reception of the campsite. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

The forest was lush green, countless birds were singing and we breathed in the fresh air.

Entering the forest. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

Soon, we reached the first boulders and rock formations typical for this area. Rock climbers were out and about trying to conquer one of the countless challenging routes leading to the top.

At the edge of the rock formations. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

We stayed with our feet on the ground and our eyes toward the sky.

Looking up. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

Launching the drone though allowed us to get a view from above and I must admit, this is a very unique landscape. Spectacular rock formations surrounded by lush green forest.

Looking down. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

And sure, I played a little. Just for the show.

No, I did not climb. Anywhere. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

We soon left the collection of boulders and steep cliffs behind and continued our hike through the forest.

One of many foxgloves next to the trail. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

Walking right on the border between the Czech Republic and Germany, we passed every few meters another landmark and countless signs of former border posts.

Between two countries. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

The trail was leading for a while right next to the edge of the plateau and I was waiting already for a sign showing ‘viewpoint’. And there it came. And what a view.

Another group of impressive sandstone formations was peeking out of the forest. The mountains aren’t very high but these cliffs make up for every lack in anything else.

Sitting atop a flat rock, we enjoyed our lunch and a beer.

The typical Elbe Sandstone Mountains. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

But for a picture, I had to climb a little further. But I don’t just leave you here the Instagram-worthy shot but drop right next to it the behind-the-scenes picture. How I got there and back.

Walking on all four…

‘The shot’ and the behind-the-scenes picture. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

But enough talking. After taking in the views from all directions, listening to the birds for half an hour and breathing in the fresh air, we decided to move on.

More views. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

We hiked along the beautiful trail right on the edge of the sandstone plateau. Looking for a trail to go down and eventually turn back to camp, David was the one leading us down.

"I found a shortcut".

Hearing those words I should have known what was to come next.

More rocks. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

I wouldn't call it a trail but a few steps down and we were far enough not to turn around again. A small gap in between two towers made of sandstone. That was where he chose to descend.

Sure, looks like a great idea. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

He wrapped his arms around a tree, swung around and stepped two stories lower onto the boulders.

Seriously?

I was too slow and certainly didn't believe what happened in front of my eyes to have reacted and captured the moment on camera. But believe me, I had to follow.

How?

I walked a few steps lower on the slippery foliage and then listened to his words. Grab the tree and swing around.

Now imagine this. Me. Holding onto a tree like a monkey. Wrapping my arms twice around the stem. Then slowly slipping down until my feet eventually touch the boulders below or something that felt like safety.

Still holding onto the tree for dear life, I tried to shift to the side and find two roots to hold onto now. I still had a drop of a couple of meters on my side. And I was far from reaching the valley below.

But now, I had the entire tree in my bra. Or at least all of the tree bark. But if there are no other complaints, it's all alright.

The next step, David slipped across that boulder on his butt. And he told me to do the same. But if I can't hold onto something, I don't trust my feet.

He asked me if I wasn't a climbing instructor. Not sure what he was talking about. That must have been in my previous life...

See below. The look on my face. And this wasn't played. I did not know he was taking the picture.

It doesn’t look that difficult to get down but it was tricky. And scary. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

And this wasn’t the end. Once we arrived at the bottom of the rock formations we were only halfway down the mountain slope. No trail was to be seen and we wandered through the thicket step by step.

Just another adventurous hike.

About an hour later, we made it back to the car, could choose a camping spot and sat back and relaxed. There was no fence between us and the forest but only birds came over and visited us.

Our camp. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

The view from camp. The sandstone rock formations and the forest we looked at while lying in bed. A song thrush (songbird) was curious enough to come over and say hi.

The views from camp, the bed and our neighbor. | Photo credit: Anne Bonfert

Telling my mom about where we were, she asked me if I remembered I was there in 1999. With them. Of course, I do not remember. But she helped me with some pictures from the album. Apparently, we also sat on the rock formations near the edge. And, back then already I was wearing yellow...

Together with my sister and mom in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains in 1999. Picture taken by my dad.

This was day two of our road trip through Czechia (or the Czech Republic, how you’d know the country as)

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Travel
Hiking
Czech Republic
Forest
Adventure
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