What I found iconic about Ho Chi Minh City

Three things we enjoyed about HCMC, the head of the ascending dragon

Visiting Vietnam’s high-paced, pulse-pounding cities is a true Marmite experience (or Vegemite for you Aussies out there); you will either love it or hate it.

Ho Chi Minh City (also known as Saigon) is the equivalent of jumping off at the deep end without knowing how to swim. You either keep calm and learn to stay afloat, or you drown under the sea of scooters.

The economic heart of Vietnam is brash but lovable. Here are our thoughts on this exciting city.

First Steps on Vietnamese Soil

After spending 15 hours. in the air, I couldn’t wait to set foot on solid ground. After a trouble-free, albeit slow exit from the airport, we were greeted by our taxi driver, waiting eagerly to take us to our hotel.

The neon signs illuminated the buildings that they clung to, as I made a vague attempt to replicate the sounds of this visually familiar, yet completely foreign language.

Lingo Lowdown: During the 17th century Portuguese Catholic missionaries introduced a Latin-based script, in an attempt to spread the word of God in Vietnam. This script was named Quốc Ngữ or ‘National Language’ and was used alongside the Chinese-based script. When the French obtained Vietnam, they enforced the Latinised script, which has been used ever since.

Upon arrival we were informed by our young host that they had accidentally double booked our private room, in return, he offered the whole block of hostel rooms as an apology (this happens fairly often in Vietnam, well to us at least). We agreed to this proposition, eager to shower and get our heads down.

The next day we awoke invigorated by the prospect of exploring a new city, despite our terrible night’s sleep. Groggily, I made my way to the doorway to take in the morning sun, which was suddenly interrupted with:

“Banh Mi…Banh Mi…Banh Mi”

These words sounded loudly over a speaker phone, like a call to prayer… or more like a call to breakfast I suppose. The source of this noise presented itself, as a woman pushing a cart filled with freshly baked bread made her way past the doorway, offering a smile and a head nod as she strolled past.

There was something remarkably quaint about this interaction, a sense of community, even within this sprawling urban jungle of 9+ million people.

Assault on the Senses

Traveling from Dorset, a sleepy county located on the Southern coast of England, to the bustling, humid, action-packed city of HCMC emphasised how diverse our world is.

Every sense was beaten to a pulp during our first couple of days. The ever-present purr of engines and frequent toots of horns kept silence at bay. The smell of grilled pork wafted its alluring aroma down the network of alleyways, only to be immediately repelled by the rancid combination of durian and sun-cooked garbage.

Crossing the road was intimidating, as the seemingly endless hoard of scooters and motorbikes made this simple action a death-defying task.

Pro Tip: It may feel counterintuitive, but when crossing the road, just walk. Keep an eye out for the oncoming traffic of course, but steadily walk in a straight line without stopping if possible. Road users won’t stop otherwise and traffic lights/pedestrian crossings are more a polite suggestion than a hard rule to follow.

There is something new to see around every corner, making this an incredibly interesting city to visit. However, for all its excitement, it is ok to feel exhausted after your first few days, trust me you will get used to the pace of the city.

French Flair

Once called the ‘Paris of the Orient’, the French had a major impact on this city and Vietnam in general. A pearl in the eye of the expansive French Empire, HCMC still retains an almost trademark Frenchiness to it.

Its well-preserved colonial architecture showcases the European nation’s well-known knack for flair and elegance. These buildings are often repurposed as hotels, cafes, restaurants and shops. However, many are still used for their original purposes, such as the well-known Saigon Opera House (pictured above) and the Saigon Central Post Office.

Those aforementioned cafes, serving Vietnam’s extra strong coffee are in abundance, another leftover courtesy of the French. The Vietnamese love coffee and drink the dark elixir in many ways, most commonly served ice cold with sweetened condensed milk.

Especially in the up-market end of the city, there is a particular boutique vibe, with entire streets dedicated to selling high-end goods from top brands. This glitzy, trendy part of the city almost feels like a cosmopolitan high street in Southern France.

Strangely Homely

At the end of our stay in Ho Chi Minh City, we became completely accustomed. The constant vibration of the city no longer caused your hair to stand on edge, but rather it reduced to a gentle simmer.

Fast forward 3 weeks, when we made our way back to HCMC to catch the return flight to the UK, we found the city felt sort of homely. It was as if over the last month spent in the country, we sort of mastered living in Vietnam, and we were able to see the city through a different lens.

The city is huge, sprawling across 24 districts. However, once you get used to the place you realise it is a very liveable city and not quite as big and intimidating as you once thought.

Meandering through the maze-like network of streets highlighted this, especially when you venture into local inhabited areas. Bar the looks of confusion and slight amusement of seeing a Westerner stroll through their street, you will see how life is lived in this expansive city.

Locals tucked away from the hectic nature of the city, seek refuge in the comfort of the side streets. As they enjoy a beer while perched upon a tiny squat stool, wiling the day away with good company. Street food vendors cook what they can manage with limited equipment and space, concocting all manor of delicious local delicacies, sold at a more than reasonable price.

This is where the magic of a city begins and ends, with the people, the communities that breathe life into this sprawling mass of concrete.

Should you visit Ho Chi Minh City?

The city’s rough charm can be found in every nook and cranny, with plenty to see and do (and eat) to forever keep you on your toes.

HCMC is the perfect jumping-off point for your Vietnamese adventure. A dizzying introduction to a country well worth exploring. A city which will build the thick skin and patience necessary to continue your travels.