Summary

Valentino's 2022 Fall Couture show, held on the Spanish Steps in Rome, showcased a diverse range of models and designs, paying homage to the label's founders and marking a significant moment in the brand's renaissance under creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli.

Abstract

Valentino's 2022 Fall Couture show, held on the Spanish Steps in Rome, was a significant event that attracted a large crowd of onlookers. The show, directed by Pierpaolo Piccioli, featured a diverse range of models and designs, including colorful feather headdresses, ethereal metallic gowns, and dresses made of oversized silk roses. The show was a tribute to the label's founders, Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti, and marked a significant moment in the brand's renaissance under Piccioli's leadership. The show also featured a diverse range of models, moving away from the label's previous "thin white women" vibe. The show was attended by several celebrities, including Anne Hathaway, Florence Pugh, and Andrew Garfield.

Opinions

The author suggests that the Valentino brand has undergone a renaissance under Pierpaolo Piccioli's leadership.
The author praises Piccioli's modernization of the label and his introduction of the rockstud style.
The author notes that the show featured a diverse range of models, moving away from the label's previous "thin white women" vibe.
The author suggests that the show was a tribute to the label's founders, Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti.
The author notes that the show was attended by several celebrities, including Anne Hathaway, Florence Pugh, and Andrew Garfield.
The author suggests that the show was a significant moment in the brand's history.

Valentino On The Spanish Steps — The Beginning Of The End?

Piccioli’s love letter to the label and to Rome

http://www.dmitrimarkine.com, CC BY 3.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0>, via Wikimedia Commons NB This is stock photo of the Spanish Steps, not the Valentino show

The taxi ferrying us to dinner slowly moved through the crowded centre of Rome on the evening of July 8, 2022, then came to a sudden halt. “Via Condotti”, the driver said. “Piazza di Spagna e chiusa.” So I could see. The route to our restaurant was blocked off, and up ahead a throng of onlookers held phones high, pointed towards the Spanish Steps, attempting to capture the view.

The Valentino 2022 Fall Couture show was underway. Brightly clad models in formal gowns could be seen standing in formation on the Scalinata Trinita dei Monte. From this distance it was impossible to see the designs, and the identities of the models and invited audience, but that did nothing to dampen the excitement of the onlookers.

The Renaissance Of Valentino

Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli chose this moment to return to the place where, in 1960, Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti formed the fashion house which more than sixty years after its founding is still a red carpet favourite for elegant, classical style.

In truth, the renaissance of the Valentino brand is due to Piccoli’s modernization of the label. The rockstud, the widely copied metallic stud style for shoes, bags and belts, was introduced in concert with his ex-colleague Maria Grazia Chiuri in 2010, and the changes he has brought to the label have enabled it to rise again, becoming a go to label for of the likes of Zendaya, Cate Blanchett and Jennifer Lopez.

This latest couture collection is naturally somewhat directional with huge colour saturated feather headdresses and embellishments, ethereal transparent metallic gowns (somewhat reminiscent of those Fendi recently showed) and dresses made of gigantic overblown silk roses.

But the message here is bigger that the clothes.

Craft And Inclusiveness

In this show, Piccioli expanded on many themes explored in the winter 2021/2022 show presented at the Arsenale in Venice whilst simultaneously honouring the house’s founders. Indeed the show was entitled “Valentino, The Beginning”.

Moving the label away from its recent ‘thin white women’ vibe, the models walking were modishly diverse in size, ethnicity and gender expression. Underlining the importance of craft, the theme at the Venice show, Piccioli closed the show with the talented ladies of the atelier in their white coats accompanying him down the steps to riotous applause, in just the same way that Valentino himself did in his 1984 Spanish Steps show.

You might even argue that the collection itself harked back to the eighties, with neon brights — mixed or paired with black — predominating and several beige pieces that put me in mind of Armani at the height of his popularity.

Of course with such a fabulous collection and location the stars were out to lend their glamour to the scene. No doubt you’ve seen photos of Anne Hathaway in that ill advised (for her) pink sequinned dress. Still, at least it had a high neckline. And the amusing juxtaposition of her placement close to Anna Wintour. Valentino muse Florence Pugh (a Valentino muse) was of course present and everyone’s favourite Spider-Man, Andrew Garfield.

The Finale

Back in real life, after a very lacklustre meal, we skirted round the back off the closed off area and were able to get much closer to the action as we made our way up towards the Spagna metro station. The models and stars were still being photographed, but the night was ending.

With such glamour, location, beauty and a nod to the history of the label, Pierpaolo has wowed the watching world with this collection. My question is — now that Piccioli has transformed Valentino and completed what could be a finale performance, what’s next for him?

Watch the show here…

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