Tiny Villages, Big Heart: San Demetrio Ne Vestini, Italy
Italian Village Series
They may be small, but tiny villages make up Italy's genuine cultural heart and soul, holding stories of generations and memories of early life in Italy.
Villages like San Demetrio Ne Vestini, with a population of approximately 1,900 in the province of L’Aquila, boast not only a big heart and soul but some of the best food and wine in the Abruzzo Region. Here, visitors can stroll down a cobblestone street and chat with the locals, unencumbered by mobs of tourists and imposing selfie sticks.
In the 13th Century, San Demetrio was one of the hamlets that founded the city of L' Aquila, the capital of the Abruzzo Region, and the Province of L’ Aquila, also comparatively small with an approximate population of 80,000 inhabitants. In the 17th Century, L’Aquila defeated the Spaniards and became ruled by the Arcamone family.
Tiny hidden treasures like San Demetrio prove that Italian cultural traditions can survive the onslaught of globalization. Food, family, church, and wine all flourish in an Italian experience of cultural hospitality.
Must-sees include the Stiffe Grottos, Lake Sinizzo, and the Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Raccomandati, which underwent reconstruction after the 2009 Earthquake. The small town with architecture dating back to the 15th and 18th centuries also features several delicious restaurants and a local market every Friday in the town square where the community comes together.
As an outdoor enthusiast, San Demetrio is also a great location to hike, bike, canoe, mountaineer, hang glide, and enjoy winter sports like skiing.
Best places to stay:
Villa Porrelli Rooms & Spa is a fabulous retreat embracing the natural emotion of the Abruzzo Region. It offers a private Spa Suite featuring a Finnish sauna, emotional shower, chromotherapy, and various massages. It’s a perfect location to explore the wonders of the Apennines.
Residenza Cappelli features an active outdoor experience in the internal Abruzzo of natural beauty and a delicious breakfast. https://residenzacappelli.it/en/.
Palazzo Camelot, 19 Via Nazionale, is a two-bedroom apartment with a private pool and bicycles to rent. Camelot Ristorante Pizzeria is in the building and offers traditional Italian food, delicious gnocchi, and great pizza.
Paneolio Food and Drink B&B is another comfortable respite with great food and location next to the ski slopes of Gran Sasso and Campo Felice.
Restaurants
Visconti Kitchen & Cooking Experience is an Abruzzo favorite offering fresh ingredients and a European menu with a strong focus on traditional Italian dishes. Chef Leonardo Visconti’s Menu includes fresh homemade pasta, Abruzzo wines, and spectacular views.
Mordi e Fuggi is another great gastronomic adventure featuring delicious dishes tradizione Abruzzese. Traditional antipasto, savory pastas and great prices.
Also, consider: Casa Bologna and Al Chicchirichi’ both featuring typical Italian Abruzzo cuisine and wine.
Festa del Pane
Bread, however, is what brings everyone together. In Mid-August, from August 13 to August 15, San Demetrio hosts its Festa del Pane (Bread Festival), featuring various types of Italian Bread and locals with generous hearts to break bread with.
Ciabatta (slipper in Italian) is one of Italy’s most popular rustic loaves. Ciabatta was supposedly created in Italy in 1982 by Arnaldo Cavallar, an Italian miller. Its moist texture makes it an excellent bread for sauces, soups, and dipping. Serve it alone salumi and pair it with a Pinot Grigio or a Rose.
Focaccia is a pizza-tasting doughy flatbread baked in the oven. Romans originally cooked focaccia on a hearth and have been credited with its creation. My daughter makes a delicious version of focaccia drizzled with Italian herbs and extra virgin olive oil.
Since it has the texture of pizza, spinach, tomatoes, olives, and everything else can go on top of it. Serve it as an appetizer with Prosecco or a Tuscan Rose.
Pan Ducale — Royal Bread or Duke’s Bread is an Abruzzo dessert bread dating back to the 1300s when the Duke of Acquaviva traveled to the region and insisted it is served every day at the table. It is sometimes called an almond pizza, made with almonds, flour, eggs, and occasionally other ingredients like chocolate. Pair Pan Ducale with a Moscatello d’Abruzzo wine or a glass Evangelista Liquori Amaretto Liqueur.
Today, the dessert bread can be found throughout Abruzzo in local pastry shops and bakeries. If you cannot make it to the Bread Festival, one of the best places to get this bread is at Pasquale D’Amario’s Panducale, Italy.
San Demetrio Ne Vestini greatest treasure is its friendly people who are always welcoming and eager to break bread and share a glass of Abruzzo wine with its visitors in town.
Confession: My grandparents were born here and I became an Italian citizen of Demetrio Ne Vestini this month. (Although, I still don’t know if I’m related to the Cappelli Residence mentioned herein. Stay tuned.)
