Three Passes Trek Nepal Day 12: Dzongla — Cho La Pass — Gokyo

Start: Dzongla, 4,749m above sea level Destination: Gokyo, 4,750m above sea level Date: 23.03.2023 Start in Dzongla: 06:35 AM Distance: 14.45 km Duration: 7:40 h Elevation: 994m ascent, 1069m descent Highest Point: 5,385m above sea level Change in elevation for sleep: +1m Trail Profile: In the first 5 km, ascent of 500 meters to Cho La Pass. Then descent to Dragnag and 2 km on the Ngozumpa Glacier to Gokyo. Lodging: Cho Oyu View Lodge and Restaurant, Gokyo (highly recommended) Weather: Fresh snow, sunny, clouds clearing over the Ngozumpa Glacier, snowing in Gokyo Temperature: Up to 9°C Fauna: Various birds at the pass Food: Porridge with apple, oat cookies & Snickers on the way, hash browns in Dragnag, popcorn and momos in Gokyo

I’ve had a quite restful night. Some headaches upon waking up, but they’ll likely fade away throughout the day. I’m very excited about today. The Cho La is the second pass on the journey. I’ve heard only good things about Gokyo, our destination for today, and I’m looking forward to visiting this place. I start the day with a warm bowl of porridge with a few apple slices. Today, I indulge in the luxury of a fresh (and expensive) apple. Let’s go — Cho La Pass, here I come.

The trail behind Dzongla steadily ascends. The landscape lies peacefully under a fresh blanket of snow. Still cold in the shade, the first rays of sunshine reach me after a short while. A backward glance is worthwhile. The Ama Dablam presents itself once again, clear and impressive. Two porters are sitting by the wayside, enjoying a joint at this early hour. Now, a short steep ascent awaits. What wouldn’t be a problem at lower altitudes is quite challenging for me here. Like every day, I walk very slowly, try not to drain too much energy from my body, and, in return, enjoy the surroundings even more. Just before the Cho La Pass, the terrain changes to a glacier. I traverse the Cho La Glacier and stand a kilometer below the pass. The final stretch is equipped with fixed ropes, making the ascent of the last meters easier. In less than three hours, I stand on my second pass of the Three Passes.

There’s a lot going on at the top. A dozen hikers are bustling on the pass, taking photos, and enjoying the magnificent weather. Red birds fly around, picking up the fallen crumbs. The descent is snow-covered and steep. With micro-spikes on my shoes and the available fixed ropes, it’s not a problem and quite enjoyable. Along with a German and an American, I savor the stretch to Dragnag. There’s another short uphill section, then a continuous descent. In the village of Dragnag, consisting of only a few houses, we enter the first lodge we find and, as expected, meet Giuseppe and Josh. I order hash browns for lunch — very tasty but a way too small portion. We laugh, enjoy each other’s company, and at some point, Matt and Monic join us.

Now, only the longest glacier in the Himalayas separates us from Gokyo. We walk a little over 2 km over the Ngozumpa Glacier. The path over the thick ice is easier to find than over the Khumbu Glacier. Rocks falling into the glacier lakes, huge boulders, and the constant crunching of the ice accompany us the entire way. Once again, I feel like I’m on a different planet. Clouds quickly gather over the glacier, creating an incredibly impressive atmosphere.

One last tough climb, and then I have normal ground under my feet again. Five minutes later, and Gokyo, by the lake of the same name, lies at our feet. We’ve made it! We walk through the settlement and head to a lodge right by the lake. The first one we visit offers a lot but would cost NPR 2,000 for a night (usual price is NPR 500). So, we move on and check out the Cho Oyu View Lodge. Also right by the lake, the rooms and prices (NPR 500) quickly convince us. The room with windows facing the lake leaves no doubts. We’re staying here for two nights.

I perform my cat wash and treat myself to a portion of popcorn. What a snack! A bit later, we see Matt and Monic coming into the settlement, and Giuseppe walks toward them so they can also stay here. So, we are reunited in the evening, enjoy the very warm hospitality, the good food (Momos!), and end the evening around the warm stove.

I have a blog that further describes more of my adventures.