The Wave

Freedom of the ocean

The ocean is a freedom, a place to lose yourself To be out amongst the surf as a part of nature’s wealth The ocean breathing on your face, salt upon your lips Natural sensory overload the cleanest kind of fix

Walking down the beach builds a growing anticipation The sun is out, the surf is up, mood notches up to elation The ocean glitters blue in a chaotic state of motion Powerful crescendo from the breaking wave’s explosion

Wading in, the cool on skin heightens tingling senses Inspiring panorama through the rosiest of lenses The tumbling breakers buffet you back, on and on you thrust Pushing through the foam, to reach the line-up is a must

Deeper and deeper now as you paddle out your board Cutting through the beach break like a gladiators sword Then you see the curling waves with deep green bluish hue Forming up in military rank heading straight for you

You pick a wave for your steed, its steepening face arising Turn your board and paddle as if the devil on your tail was firing Harder, faster, all your effort, speed up to keep your pace Feeling the wave catch you up and start racing down its face

You’ve caught the wave, it picks you up, jump up pump the board Exhilaration maxes through as acceleration shoots you forward Bottom turn, carve up the face and ride out on the lip Shoot through the barrel, back to the top, and give the wave the slip

Euphoria hits, you made the wave, the exhilaration mind-blowing Adrenalin pumps and powers you up, you feel your body glowing You turn once more away from the shore another ride you crave Loving the ocean, gaining your freedom, as you catch another wave