The Secret Entrance To The Scottish Kennedy Estate

Just don’t tell anyone!

The first time I visited the Scottish Kennedy estate in Ayrshire, it was early fall. The sun was glinting on the sea, the air was clear and interesting fungi were growing beneath the trees. When I saw the castle it took my breath away. Perched on the cliff, built of beautiful blonde sandstone and surrounded by gorgeous grounds it seemed like the perfect combination of fortress and stately home. Even better — we’d snuck in…my other half, being a local, knew the secret.

When I had the opportunity to go back this Christmas while visiting Scotland, I jumped at the chance — and if you’re visiting Scotland you’ve got to go too!

The estate is called Culzean (it’s pronounced cull-ANE) and is now owned by the National Trust for Scotland. It’s just south of Alloway (Robbie Burn’s birthplace) and just north of the famous Turnberry golf course, owned by Donald Trump — and it’s an easy day trip from Glasgow or Edinburgh.

The origins of the castle go back to the 10th century - the current house dates back to the 1700s. Historically the seat of the Kennedys, the house is surrounded by fabulous walks, a walled garden, formal grounds including the swan pond and deer park, and pretty structures like the camellia house, gas house, and the powder house (no, it’s not a washroom! It’s where they used to keep the gunpowder.).

My favourite place: the walled garden… & a slave story

There’s something so romantic about a walled garden, but they’re also very practical. Keeping the cruel west coast weather off the fruit and veggies and providing a sheltered spot for secret assignations. There are pretty greenhouses, orchards, an old tea house and much more to see…

The Scottish Kennedys were a powerful family and in common with many of their type at that time, kept at least one slave that we know of. Named Scipio, he was bought from Guinea in about 1700 aged 5 or 6 (heartbreaking!) and was finally granted his freedom in 1725. He was given land on the estate and continued to work for the family. The walled garden now stands where Scipio’s house was. His life is memorialized in a nearby churchyard. I do think it’s important for us to understand and acknowledge the role of the Scottish in the slave trade — this is a topic I’ll expand on another time.

Natural art

If you look at the photos taken within the walled garden (above) you’ll see a couple of sculptures made from willow. Those in the walled garden — the gardener, the pear, and the onion were created by the artist Trevor Leat. Many other sculptures are dotted around the park and they are totally amazing, clever, and fitting. Created by David Powell of Girvan, they include a shell, a dragon, and waterfowl…but the onion is definitely my favourite. Seems I missed out on quite a few though because David also created a mermaid, a seahorse, a Kraken and a starfish! Good excuse for a return trip to Culzean.

The Eisenhower connection

US President Eisenhower visited Culzean many times — an apartment in the castle was gifted to him by the Kennedy family. This apartment is even available to rent, if you fancy a rather swanky vacation. In the main tower and facing out to sea, it has six bedrooms. Perfect for a little Airbnb party.

The beach

All along the base of the estate runs the beach — wonderfully sandy in some places, full of fabulous rock pools in others, and with tremendous views of Ailsa Craig and the Isle of Arran. There are also lots of caves — I like to imagine that those wicked old Kennedys used these caves for smuggling and that maybe there are secret passages up into the house itself! Speaking of secrets...if you wanted to visit the estate without paying an entry fee, perhaps the beach would be the way to go? You might very well think that I couldn’t possibly comment.

Hungry?

There’s so much to see at Culzean and it’s perfect for everyone — dog walkers, kids, historians, photographers — and you can easily spend a whole day or more there. so you’re bound to get a bit peckish. There are picnic benches dotted around if you want to bring a packed lunch, and a coffee shop with a lovely patio at the Swan Pond, but for the full Culzean experience you need to get a bacon roll and a pot of tea at the Home Farm cafe. And round it out with a piece of Millionaire’s Shortbread. Yum!

For more great travel writing check out writers like Anne Bonfert and JoAnn Ryan on Globetrotters.

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