LIFESTYLE | TRAVEL | FOOD
The Most Enchanting City In The World Lives Up To Its Name
This little town in Mexico reminds you of what really matters
We arrived just before sunset, as we’d planned.
Hurrying through cobblestone streets, we reached a beautiful square.
Children noisily played football, colourful figures on stilts dressed in traditional Mexican clothes hovered overed us and local people relaxed on benches under carefully coiffed trees.
My husband and I had only been in San Miguel de Allende (SMA), Mexico for a few minutes and its loveliness was already on display. As we slipped into the rooftop venue we’d made a reservation at (Quince), we were welcomed by a beautiful view of the horizon and friendly staff. We sipped our drinks (the ‘Passionfruit Mezcalita’ I had was delicious) and watched as evening shadows danced on the majestic cathedral right next to us. Just before we left, a trapeze artist appeared to surprise us with a short show displaying his talent. We walked out into the balmy night into the embrace of mariachi music playing in the square, and realised we were going to have a wonderful few days.
It was time to drive back to our Airbnb, the Casa Juana Guesthouse, where our hosts welcomed us and helped us to settle in. We awoke at seven the next morning so we could stroll around the town in the quiet light of the early hours. SMA is a calm, picturesque place, with small colourful streets that make wandering around it a pleasure (it also has some very steep slopes and pebbled roads, so it isn’t an easy place for anyone who has difficulty walking or uses a wheelchair).
We returned to our Airbnb in time for one of our hosts to prepare us an excellent breakfast (he’s also a professional chef). The delicate French toast, lovingly made with brioche, apple slices and granola, was a reminder of how important it is to start the day right.
Most of the rest of our stay was about walking around, eating and drinking in the sights and sounds around us. SMA hosts some of Mexico’s modern and traditional artwork (in the form of murals and handicrafts). We explored these in the Ignacio Ramirez market, which hosts a variety of stalls selling artisanal products. It is also home some food stalls that the locals frequent. The cuban torta we shared is perhaps the most hearty sandwich ever to be invented — we washed it down with an tasty orange and strawberry juice.
One of the best ways to enjoy San Miguel de Allende is by lounging on one of its numerous rooftop terraces. Aside from Quince, you can try a restaurant called Carajillo, named after a popular Mexican coffee-based drink — their guacamole, accompanied by chorizo chips, was nice and filling, and their nutty, slightly sweet pasta made a satisfying dinner.
Selina and Luna are other terraces that offer spectacular views. Selina also offers a wonderfully citrusy drink called a Callejoneada. At Luna, the incredible sunset we enjoyed was enhanced by live musicians playing one classic song after another. The cherry on top were the soft corn tortillas we relished with creamy beetroot houmous and oily green sauce (I’d definitely recommend). This snack worked very well with our Modelo Especial beers (the tastiest beer I had in Mexico).
While cold beer is a great way to appreciate an SMA sunset, you haven’t really done Mexico justice if you don’t sit down to try some tequila, so we designed our own tequila tasting at the popular Don Taco Tequila. We sipped on Don Julio 70 (quite nice) and Ocho Plata (a bit too strong) as well as an unusual drink called Santo Cuviso, which is not a tequila but a ‘bacanora’. This unique concoction only be made in the state of state of Sonora in Mexico — because of this, local people talk about it in slightly reverential tones.
Despite the tasty food and drink, these elements weren’t the highlight of our stay in SMA. Slow-paced and sweet are perhaps the best words to capture the essence of this place. Too often our lives comprise one to-do list item after the next, but SMA forced us to stop and enjoy its simple, captivating charm. If you ever visit, there are many ways for you to do this too: munch on churros and cinnamon- flavoured Mexican chocolate at the Churreria San Agustin, try the ‘Kiss of SMA’ flavoured ice cream while people-watching in the town square and stop at one of the many sweet shops where you’ll be offered multiple local treats, including the tasty, spicy tamarind ‘tarugos’.
It’s not just the food you’ll be savouring, but the culture of an unusually pretty place that is utterly at peace with itself.
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