The Magnificence of Christmas in Florence’s Duomo

An Unsurpassed Transcendent Experience

Christmas stirs many thoughts — the importance of traditions, memories of joyful times, and the warmth of family. It also conjures wishes for something special, whether it is for a snowy Christmas day or to have a unique experience. In my case, it fostered the desire to attend a Christmas service in one of the great European cathedrals.

My desire was vague but had a palpable sense of deep significance — an expectation that something awe-inspiring and beautiful awaited. It was mingled with religious overtones. The desire became a longing.

But it was unclear when or if it would happen.

Here’s Our Chance!

Nothing compares to spending Christmas with loved ones, but holiday gatherings may be less frequent as time goes on — family members have other relatives to see or a getaway beckons. Suddenly, there is no fixed plan. Stay home alone or hit the road!

When that circumstance was presented, my wife and I decided to go to Italy over the holidays — we would lead up to Christmas in a small town, then move on to a city for the festive occasion. Florence became the choice for the latter.

Florence During Christmas

During December, Florence has a different feel. There are still abundant tourists, but the holiday street vibe is more about the locals and their activities — leisurely strolls along streets hung with lights and decorations, browsing the shops, and huddling at Christmas markets. It is a congenial atmosphere mixed with anticipation — a spirit without commercial necessity.

During the day, we easily found our favorites and discovered some new ones. We headed to an outside venue at the main square, Piazza della Signoria, for some warm and filling “soups” — Pappa al Pomodoro and Ribollita, which could not have tasted better in the chill. A brief review of leather goods at Piazza della Repubblica was followed by narrow streets leading to a Christmas Market outside the gorgeous Santa Croce cathedral. The warm mulled red wine there hit the spot and enhanced the perusal of stalls filled with artisan jewelry, crafts, and delectable candies and jams.

Evenings found us eating incredible pasta, like small pear-filled ravioli with gorgonzola cheese sauce. We debated whether we should try the very rare Fiorentina steak but settled on something “safer”. Before and after dinners, we warmed ourselves with more beverages next to the crackling fireplace of our hotel.

Christmas Mass at the Duomo

In the West, we refer to it as the Duomo, but the actual name for the grand cathedral of Florence is Santa Maria del Fiori.

Over the years, I have spent long spells marveling at the cathedral. Every color or pattern leads to another, every curled pillar leads to a splendid religious mosaic. It takes my breath away every time I first behold it. I try to find a crevice from where I can sweep my gaze, followed by a series of photos. I’ve seen it from all angles and never tire of staring.

The information for the Christmas Day Mass was to get in line at the side entrance and hope for the best. No need for reservations or to pay anything. I wasn’t sure how it would turn out but I felt nothing could stop me now!

Surprisingly, the line was short and moved quickly when I showed up 45 minutes before the service. An even greater surprise was when an usher motioned me to the front after I was inside. I was literally in a front pew.

I don’t recall the last time I was inside the cathedral, but I was immediately agape at the frescoed dome, which was directly overhead! Think of Sistine-Chapel-type scenes in the round. Hundreds of figures in scenes inspired by Dante and from the New Testament. Any one scene could be called a masterpiece, but dozens of scenes swirling the dome were populated by beautifully rendered figures — it was staggering to the mind and eye. A feeling of transcendent beauty.

As the service began, I followed the Italian Mass as best I could, but the music was ethereal. Voices mingled with the organ and spoke to the magnificence and solemness of the occasion. The acoustics were crisp; the sound filled the huge church chamber. One felt transported.

Hundreds of people were in the church in various holiday attires. In the presence of such wonders, one felt the oneness of being, common spirit, and awe. Also, the spirits of those from the past of the glorious city of Florence lingered — Medicis, Dante, Donatello, Michelangelo, along with the less noted. Many contributed their talents or treasure to make the astounding structure where we worshiped.

While the feelings inspired by each were distinct -the majesty of the structure, the art, the music, and the common humanity — they blended and amplified each other. As the service closed, one felt changed inside — ineffably but wondrously.

It was even better than I had hoped!

Deep desires have unknown consequences until they are met. In my case, the hope for something of deep significance was more than satisfied.

Cathedrals are remarkable structures, often taking hundreds of years to complete. Groups of citizens came together to complete them, and craftsmen and women created marvels of beauty. They produced feats of tremendous achievement.

But not to be lost was the purpose. Their feats testify to a belief in transcendence and the goal was to glorify and speak to the transcendence in a unique language. The language was expressed in the beauty of the structure and its embellishments, and in the prayers and hymns offered, which took on an even greater meaning on Christmas.

To have taken part in the transcendence and the language was a wonderful Christmas, indeed!