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The Ghosts of Angkor Wat

Good and evil in ancient Cambodian mythology

Credit: James Baxter

This is a place of demons. As told by the many elaborate carvings covering the temple walls. Gods once fought to reclaim the earth from evil asuras and restore the order they once had. Amrita, the elixir of life needed to save the planet could only be released through the Gods and the demon asuras working together. Upon freeing amrita from the Earth, the battle between good and evil to capture the precious elixir would begin.

Credit: James Baxter

This is one of the great Hindu stories played out in the many stone carvings at Angkor Wat. It is hard not to get wrapped up in mythology walking through the temple. It is a hauntingly beautiful place. After deliberately losing my tour group I wandered the temple’s empty grounds and dark corridors at a complete loss for words. There is a slightly eerie element to the place. Walking through the inner temple it is as though the walls absorb any sound. I felt the need to be quiet without anyone telling me to do so.

Credit: James Baxter

Arriving before sunrise, I watched as the temple emerged from the morning light. The ornate architecture used to build Angkor Wat is unique to the rest of the world. The temples’ layout and fluted spires create an imposing visual against the surrounding jungle. The moat that frames the ancient structure gives it a commanding presence. There can be no doubt that this was once a place of greatness.

Credit: James Baxter

Alone I walked the temple’s many rooms and hallways. I ran my fingers over the intricate stone carvings decorating the structure’s interior. I imagined the craftsman, a thousand years previous, labouring to etch out the stories and legends passed down over millennia. I touched the same writing and figures they worked so hard to create. Trapped in stone, the characters tell their timeless stories throughout the structures halls and prayer rooms.

Credit: James Baxter

Lost in the temple’s inner labyrinth I continued to immerse myself in this forgotten part of history. As I wandered the dim corridors I imagined the dark shadows of demons gliding along the ornate walls as they followed ominously behind me. This is a place of imagination. The lives and stories of the people that once walked these halls filled my mind as I continued on in silence.

Credit: James Baxter

The dark stone used to construct Angkor Wat gives it an element of mystery beyond the legends and mythology it is known for. Inside the temple, shadowy stone carvings look almost lifelike. Protected from the elements, they have maintained their natural look and have a certain mesmerizing quality about them. One could almost imagine their eyes following you while walking from one room to the next.

Credit: James Baxter

I walked towards the light leading to the temple’s large open courtyard. Monks in faded orange robes were gathered in a distant corner. Even on the exterior, high attention to detail had been maintained. Although more weathered than the interior, the large black blocks used to build Angkor Wat have retained their ornate design. Elephants had been used to move the thousands of stone blocks during the temple’s construction. The labour force needed for such a project must have been staggering.

Credit: James Baxter

I had my time at Angkor Wat and felt ready to move on. It is not a place you simply go to and snap a few photos. The place must be experienced to be appreciated. If not for the temple’s lost civilization and ancient culture, then for the architecture of this rare and mysterious part of history.

Credit: James Baxter

Perhaps while you are there you will see the demons trapped in time on the temple walls, and through your imagination, you will help them be released.

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