The Friend of Friend Guide to Copenhagen
Copenhagen inspiration from one friend of a friend to another
I recently booked a weekend in Stockholm to visit some friends who’d moved there. To make the most of being in the area, I added a few days somewhere I heard people consistently rave about: Copenhagen.
▶️ Instagram Highlights ️️▶ Copenhagen Google Map ▶ Visit Copenhagen Official Website
I put up a call for tips on my Instagram right before going and received so many wonderful tips that I felt I should make a guide linking it all together. The result is a combination of the top things recommended, with a bit of Stubborn Travel curation and personal favourites. I hope it can help as a quick planning aid to this delightful city, home to the happiest people on Earth.
A huge thank you to the awesome travellers and locals who contributed, especially Amalie, Courtenay, James, Nina and Caitlin.
Stockholm Central to Copenhagen by train
As I was in Stockholm, I took the train from Stockholm Central to Copenhagen (Köbenhavn H) — the train station right next to Tivoli Gardens. The train ride itself is a comfortable, scenic 5–6 hour route through the Swedish countryside, with stops like Lund and Malmo available if you’d like to stop along the way. NB: I booked it directly through SJ trains on the English portion of the website, but all communication was in Swedish.
The basics:
- How do you get around Copenhagen?
- Areas to explore
- Eating out in Copenhagen
- $$$ Money: how expensive is Copenhagen?
- Frequently Asked Questions
How do you get around Copenhagen?
One great thing about Copenhagen is its size — it’s small enough to get around on foot and by bicycle, and these are the recommended ways for getting a real feel of the city. There is also a metro system, trains, buses and taxis to get around. I found myself not using any of them, aside from one metro ride to head to the airport.
Most recommended: rent a bike or get one from your hotel. You can also do bike tours.
I bookmarked all the main spots recommended on Google Maps and used that to create a few walking tours. I’ve made it into a list, so if that sounds helpful, feel free to share and use my Copenhagen list, linked above.
A good place to get your bearings is a boat tour, which takes about an hour (around £10–15) and travels around the main areas of Copenhagen. They go all the time, and I didn’t feel a particular need to book in advance.
Most of them leave from Nyhavn — the touristy, colourful street often associated with Copenhagen. I read that boat tours also leave from Gammel Strand and Ofelia Plads (very close to Nyhvan) and if you’re feeling adventurous (and weather allows), you can also cruise the canals by kayak. I took a Stromma boat tour, bought on the spot in Nyhavn and had a great time.
“If the weather is good I love to bring a drink in the canal tour or rent my own go boat (little blue boat) and sail on the canals. If you do the tour you also get some historic knowledge.” — Amalie
Areas to explore in Copenhagen
Wondering where to start when walking around? Try these areas:
- Nyhavn. The famous street with coloured houses featured at the top of this blog. Home to two of Hans Christian Andersen’s houses.
- Christiania. Worth reading up a bit before you go, especially if you have children, as drugs are openly dealt there. Keep in mind that the area can get sketchy at night.
- Nørrebro. Once there, the Assistens Cemetery (Assistentens Kirkegaard) is really worthwhile. On the other side of Assistens is Jægersborggade, a street with lots of cute, independent shops. Recommendation: Coffee Collective.
- Reffen food market, in the northeast part of town. If you’re a fan of Mikkeller, this is where one of their breweries is (NB: closed Mondays and Tuesdays). The food market is cool and varied, with loads of seating along the water and nice views, and the walk / bike ride there is pretty scenic as well. Ensure you check their website before you go, as in the winter it can be closed for the season.
- Meatpacking District. Originally home to the meat industry, Copenhagen’s Meatpacking District (Kødbyen) has become a cool area to explore, with restaurants, galleries, cafes and cocktail bars.
For more, Visit Copenhagen have a great neighbourhood guide with a bit more on each area.
Eating out in Copenhagen
Copenhagen is a foodie heaven, and a few paragraphs aren’t enough to cover it all. With an impressive number of Michelin stars, some of the highest rated restaurants in the world, and plenty of mouth-watering bakeries, there’s always something to eat.
If you like your food, and have specific restaurants in mind, planning is essential. Restaurants often aren’t open every day of the week, and some are only open for dinner. As a result, I spent a few afternoons hungry, not having realised a late lunch wasn’t always an option.
I was lucky enough to be given three different maps highlighting some of Copenhagen’s recommended food spots. I’ve compiled them into one, adding sightseeing highlights and my own favourites, on my Copenhagen Google Map. Feel free to share it with whoever you please! If it helps you, I’d love to know in the comments.
Still, if you’re serious about your food, I would recommend you do your own research, to ensure that your expectations don’t fall short and you have time to make any reservations you need.
If you’re not a foodie, I have good news for you: you’re going to save a lot of money in Copenhagen!
Is Copenhagen expensive?
Naturally, cost is relative. As a Londoner, I would say it’s a more expensive city than London, but not by that much.
Be prepared for hotel rooms to be smaller than you’re used to. I stayed in a super central 4-star hotel, in a single cosy but small room for around £150 a night, and that was a steal. Bike rental was £20 a day, and the bikes were really beautiful.
If drinking, you’re looking around £7 a pint at a cheap place, and closer to £10 at a pricier place. Cocktails and wine start around £10 or 15, and go up from there. A cocktail upwards of £20 is not particularly shocking.
Eating out at a mid-priced place might mean a £15–20 starter and £20–30 main. A tasting menu might cost between £50 and £100 without drinks. Eating out can easily add up if you go to a nice place every day.
That said, you can do it on the cheap. Bakeries in particular give really generous portions without costing much, and they don’t just do sweet things. Savoury cakes and sandwiches are popular, but my goodness so are the sweet treats. Food markets are also a way to save a little money (although very little costs less than £10). And then of course there are the supermarkets, where everything is a fraction of the cost. There are also deals and set menus at nicer places, especially for lunch.
Copenhagen Food Markets
There are so many wonderful food markets around the city. A selection is listed below.
- Torvehallerne, one the main food markets by Nørreport.
- Tivoli Gardens, in a food hall next to Tivoli Gardens. Accordingly, this one felt very touristy and I felt it was cramped, with a limited selection.
- Reffen, a big, varied food market with plenty of seating by the water.
- Broens Gadekøkken, a cool outdoor space with plenty of vendors by the Nyhavn bridge.
Frequently asked questions
What would you personally not miss?
I had a gorgeous solo afternoon at Assisten’s Cemetery. There’s something so serene about that place. I imagine I would visit it often if I were a local. You can also go visit Hans Christian Andersen’s grave there, which is beautiful and clearly marked.
What would you miss?
Almost everyone I know who has been to Copenhagen agreed that the Little Mermaid is not worth it. If you’re unsure, you’ll see her from the back on the canal tours. You can then decide if it’s worth it (I decided it wasn’t).
What are some unusual things to do in Copenhagen?
- Visiting the Amager Bakke / Copenhill, branded “an incinerator with a view” (and a ski slope).
- Check out underground art space Cisternerne (temporarily closed, requires advance reservation).
- Not unusual, but a bit out of the city: if you have a bit more time, the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art has been highly recommended by multiple friends as a really worthwhile visit. It’s around a 40-minute train ride out of Copenhagen, but with a nice seaside location and excellent exhibitions.
How long do you need in Copenhagen?
Ah. How long is a piece of string? Of course it depends on your budget, how much you want to do, and how quickly you want to do it. I would say less than two days will feel rushed, and more than four will give you a very good handle on the city.
Do they speak English in Copenhagen?
I did not meet a single person who didn’t. According to Educations.com, 86% of Danes speak English as a second language.
What are the best months to visit Copenhagen?
It really depends on what you’re looking for. Naturally, summer brings warmer climes while winter can be dark and biting. Check the temperatures and see what you’re comfortable with, and keep in mind that high seasons tend to cost more. As Copenhagen is small, it also pays to look at what other events are happening, like Roskilde music festival, Copenhagen Fashion Week or the Copenhagen Marathon.
Is Copenhagen worth visiting?
Of course! It’s safe, beautiful and easy to navigate, making it a perfect long weekend city break, or a longer, relaxing holiday.
Is Noma worth it?
In case you don’t know what Noma is, it’s the 3-Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen which regularly receives the award for best restaurant in the world. I haven’t been, so I can’t say if it’s worth it. I do know several people — locals and tourists — who have though.
From their feedback, I understand it’s divisive, with some loving it and some hating it. If you manage to get a reservation (which I am told is close to impossible), keep in mind that it’s pricy and their speciality is fermentation, which is not for everyone. If you go or have been, I’d love to know what you thought in the comments!
Is Copenhagen vegetarian friendly?
My personal experience? Yes and no. There are plenty of delicious vegan and veggie restaurants (ARK and Urten have been recommended), and vegans and vegetarians won’t go hungry in Copenhagen. That said, I was surprised at the number of regular places that did not have a single vegetarian option on the menu.
Have another Copenhagen FAQ? Drop it in the comments and I’ll try my best to help. Prefer to see this on Instagram? Try the Copenhagen highlights:
If you found this helpful…
Please feel free to share this with your friends. I share more on my publication page, Stubborn Travel, my website, and my Instagram.
Do you have a travel story to tell? I’m looking to share stories from other travellers, both as publication stories as well as through Q&A style Instagram interviews. If you’re up for a collaboration, drop me a line in the comments.