Summary

The article discusses the unique and controversial Black and White Temples in Chiang Rai, Thailand, known for their unconventional and provocative artistic expressions within the context of Buddhism.

Abstract

The Black House, or Baan Dam Museum, created by Thai artist Thawan Duchanee, is a complex of buildings that deviates from traditional Thai Buddhist temples with its animistic and sexual imagery, including gothic phallic wood carvings. In contrast, the White Temple, or Wat Rong Khun, designed by Chalermchai Kositpipat, is an all-white structure that combines Buddhist teachings with political statements, such as depictions of George Bush and Osama Bin Laden in the eyes of a demon, symbolizing the loss of humanity's moral compass. Despite their differences, both temples reflect the creativity and spirituality of Thai culture, challenging visitors' perceptions and encouraging enlightenment to life's realities.

Opinions

The author finds the Black House to be unorthodox and risqué, likening it to a "kink-fest" and suggesting it may not be suitable for all audiences, particularly not grandmothers.
There is a sense of surprise and fascination in the author's description of the Black House, which contrasts with the sanitized information available on the internet.
The White Temple is acknowledged for its beauty and intricacy, yet it also conveys a strong political message about the state of the world, which the author appreciates.
The author expresses admiration for the artistic and spiritual community at the White Temple, considering it a source of inspiration and a potential place for personal artistic development.
The article suggests that both temples, despite their peculiarities and potential for controversy, ultimately align with Buddhist teachings on enlightenment and moral living.

The ‘Controversial’ Black & White Temples of Chiang Rai (Northern Thailand)

Who knew Buddhism could be so creative and raunchy!

There are two unique temples in Chiang Rai, the most northern part of Thailand on the Laos border.

One’s white, one’s black, and they both have a quirky kind of character, with a certain amount of controversy surrounding them.

The black one, oh boy, that’s a bit of a kink-fest if I do say so myself, a little bit X-rated if you know what I mean, and the white one could be ‘censored’ for conspiracy theories!

But let’s start with the black one!

Oh, before we dive in, don’t worry….I’m not going to post any X-rated graphic pictures here. Just the G ones (Some of you might be disappointed.. I don’t know….but I do have a video!)

The X-Rated Black House Temple of Chiang Rai

You only have to get inside the front door before you realize….. this ain’t no place to take grandma!

It’s not your usual Thai Buddhist Temple.

In fact, it’s a temple for something entirely different from Buddhism…a temple of some pretty weird voodoo looking stuff.

The Black House front hall — Photo by DJ Hopkins

Bless my Buddhist wife, when we first walked in, I was like…..’Hey Babe, do you know what this place is all about?’ She said. ‘No, I have no idea.’ I believe her because she is kind of innocent like that.

I told her, ‘I think they worship Satan here, maybe even perform some kinky animistic sex rituals.’ I think she was a bit shocked; it took me an hour to explain it.

More strange buildings at the Black House Temple — Photo by DJ Hopkins

Let’s just say, there are many gothic looking phallic wood carvings that adorn the whole place and some pretty strange buildings. It’s so pagan I thought for a moment I had walked on to the set of ‘Vikings.’

I did a little research, and it turns out animism and voodoo are big in parts of Thailand. It makes sense because Thai culture is very superstitious.

Not that I’m any sort of expert in that kind of thing, far from it. I’m just a European who’s seen too many movies. Eyes wide shut, if you know what I mean?

Anyway, it was kind of fascinating, if not a little bit creepy. I felt like a naughty schoolboy walking around that place looking at all the forbidden fruit.

It’s weird because when you look this place up on the internet… Wikipedia. It doesn’t mention anything about that. It’s like…move right along folks, nothing to see here!

This is the official line on the black House:

Baan Dam Museum (Thai: พิพิธภัณฑ์บ้านดำ), also known to foreigners as the Black House Museum, is a mixture of traditional northern Thai buildings with unconventional and contemporary architecture, created by the Thai artist Thawan Duchanee.[1]

Unconventional……I’ll say!

For those of you who‘s curiosity is killing the cat…..here is a video I took of the place.

So that’s the black temple now onto the white one. Still a little bit weird but nothing the heart can’t handle don’t worry.

Wat Rong Khun, better known as The White Temple

All white and ornate and not a phallic symbol in sight. But even this one turns out to be something a little different when you explore it, as I found out.

The entrance walkway bridge — Photo by DJ Hopkins

Even as you walk over the entrance bridge, you see all these hands reaching up from the ground. I started thinking ‘Hello, this is a bit weird, this could get interesting’.

The official line is:

A privately owned art exhibit in the style of a Buddhist temple in Pa O Don Chai, Mueang District, Chiang Rai Province, Thailand. It is owned by the artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, who designed, constructed, and opened it to visitors in 1997.

It is stunning from the outside and the Thai artist Chalermchai is resident there and often can be seen walking around the grounds instructing his artistic flock as they continue the construction.

You soon begin to see that the work also has a political edge to it as well as morality and stories of Buddhist enlightenment. He also mixes in western pop culture…movie icons and anti-superheroes.

Movie anti-super heroes — Photo by DJ Hopkins

There is a message here that humanity has lost its moral compass. In Chalermchai’s words:

“Look at each other with kindness, not with hate that can lead to war”.

As you get inside, and sadly no cameras are allowed, you begin to see that political message with the eyes of a huge demon that greets you. Each eye has portraits of George Bush and Osama Bin Laden inside them, looking to each other, while below them the Twin Towers burn

The artist’s message is that in reality, while we need real-life heroes — no movie screen heroes could save the Twin Towers.

Thought provoking stuff!

Demons at the White Temple — Photo by DJ Hopkins

What can we learn?

Well firstly there are some pretty weird places in Thailand.

That aside, being a bit of an artist myself I have to say I was really inspired by what they had created at the white Temple.

I felt like applying to stay there myself!

The grounds were huge with many other buildings including an art gallery, museum, shops and living quarters for resident artists. This really was a creative and spiritual community.

Although to some it all might seem like a lot of political nonsense and conspiracy theories the ultimate message is about being enlightened to the realities of life.

This after all, is the core lesson taught by the big man himself “Buddha”.

Cheers to you the reader, for supporting independent writers on Medium and this cool publication.

If you’re feeling a bit adventurous and want to read more of my writing you can find it here on Medium at DJ Hopkins or my blog, ‘An introvert’s guide to life, personal growth, and Thailand.’ Just don’t expect too much excitement — I am an introvert after all. Cheers DJ.