The African Version of a Tropical Paradise

Zanzibar — an island rich in culture and characterized by its endless beaches

Like most young people, I’ve been fascinated by and drawn to any Mediterranean beaches and islands. In my teenage years, I’ve explored a few stunning coastlines amongst European holiday destinations.

But once I finished my studies I wanted to go further. I wanted to explore more of the world. Starting with the African continent. And starting with tropical beaches and crystal clear waters. And believe me, Africa got plenty of it to offer. Even in countries, I haven’t even heard of before.

Tanzania

After spending almost six months in Ghana I flew to East Africa. The first country to explore was Tanzania. Arriving in the capital of Dar Es Salaam I got hit by a culture shock.

Being used to the kindness of Ghana’s citizens I got quickly thrown back to reality getting in contact with street vendors trying to get as much money as possible from every foreigner arriving in the country.

Trying to escape the hustle and bustle of the city I quickly booked a ticket to the island lying in front of the capital. Zanzibar. An island popular for Europeans on their honeymoon I was trying my luck as a backpacker.

Stone Town

The Island main city Stone Town is where all boats arrive and tourists enter the paradise. After leaving the harbor I quickly found myself in a beautiful park.

Being a curious and open-minded traveler I sat down on a bench watching the locals. Lots of young women were sitting in circles having books in their hands reminding me of my time in university.

Zanzibar is a strongly Islamic region with a percentage of about 98 percent of Muslims living there. All girls in the park were wearing long dresses and most of them covering their faces as well. Some dressed in all black, others in the most colorful clothes. All of them being university students.

Not long after I sat down a few girls invited me to sit with them. Nobody minded my light summer dress or the white skin. They just wanted to talk to me. They asked me to read their latest English text and explain it to them.

More and more girls came and surrounded me. I tried my best to understand the article. Having English as my third language and just recently started talking fluently I struggled a bit.

I enjoyed the exchange a lot. The girls were curious just like me. And they were well educated. We had some good laughs and lots of joy sitting together. After a while, I left the group and walked out of the park. With my mind filled with thoughts and beautiful memories.

Wandering through the streets I get to the old city and admire buildings and tiny roads. Walking past a studio watching locals painting new pictures. Those pieces of artwork were incredibly stunning. Yet nothing for the budget and bags of a backpacker.

Nungwi

Making my way north my next destination was Nungwi. Known for its white-sand beaches and crystal clear waters it is the tourist attraction of the island. And making me speechless.

I’ve never seen anything like this before. You don’t get to see that in Europe. There’s nothing wrong with European Islands. But this is just different. The water so clear you can see everything on the ground despite the water being five meters deep.

The sand. White. I mean literally white. If you pick up some sand and hold it next to a white wall you won’t see a color difference. Just the texture. So fine.

Going on endless walks on the beach I walked past several fancy resorts and honeymoon couples from every European country I can think of. Trying not to feel lonely I tell myself to embrace the beauty of the scenery not knowing when I will ever see something like this again.

Local fishermen live here alongside the beach resorts and backpackers. Their village is usually just behind the beachfront. The beachfront is saved for tourists.

Loving the coastline and more and more and forget about time and place. Knowing I can’t get lost walking along the beach I continue enjoying the view.

Sealife is easy to be admired from the beach. Fish and starfish are plentiful in the water. Colorful examples of each to be spotted.

Locals selling their latest artwork right on the beach. Pictures, miniature boats, and other creations are to be found. All of the beautiful up into the details. I love this type of art.

A festival

Walking north the second day I get to the most northern point of the island and a small village. Lots of locals are gathering just next to the beach. After a few minutes, I figured there was a wedding celebration.

Listening to the songs the crowds are singing I’m standing aside watching the scene. It’s a happy celebration. All the women are dressed in their most colorful dresses.

The youth is spending their time in and on the water. With all their clothes on they jump off cliffs by showing tricks and moves or simply run into the ocean for a refreshing feeling.

It’s loud. Kids scream and shout. They laugh and simply enjoy themselves.

The accommodation

My backpackers is in the second line. Just behind the beachfront resorts, I’m staying in a dorm together with other travelers from all around the world. Only a few steps away from the ocean it’s a quiet and peaceful place to stay.

The restaurant of the neighboring resort is located directly on the beach. During high tide, you have to swim past the place or walk around the back of it. I’ve spent one or two meals sitting on the terrace enjoying the view.

Sometimes I would just sit here for a cold drink in the afternoon using their WIFI to upload my latest blog. With this view, there is plenty of inspiration for articles to be found. Motivation wasn’t an issue.

Kendwa

Just south of Nungwi the town of Kendwa invites water sports fans. The beaches are just as beautiful. More expensive resorts to be seen on this side. Some of them with large swimming pools on the beach. That is something I will never understand.

Why would I want to go swimming in the pool if I have a paradise-like ocean in front of me? I just don’t get it. But those people should just stay in the pool and the chairs of the resort so that the beach remains for me.

Struggling at the beginning I managed eventually to get up on the skies and race across this crystal clear water. Such a great feeling. To do some sport again. To be active. What a joy.

During this long backpacking trip, I struggled with one thing. Staying in shape. The previous sports I used to do were just not possible. So any type of activity I would find along the way I jumped into.

If you think you’ve seen everything you will see something that surprises you. Like this local craft store greeting everyone in Italian. Somewhere off the coast of the African continent. No, this was not an Italian colony. I don’t even know if they had any colonies. Italy.

The resort next door is mainly used by an Italian travel agency and therefore the locals adapted. Instead of greeting you in English or German (because Germans are literally everywhere when you travel), they greet you here in Italian. Something new for once.

Somewhere on the east coast

Traveling on the island is pretty easy. Most tourists just rent a taxi and you get within minutes from one side of the island to the other. Knowing me you could assume I did not ever take a taxi. And you’re right.

I traveled with local busses here called Dalla-Dallas. My first trip to Nungwi was rather easy to achieve. This trip now turned into a challenge. During the journey I was stranded somewhere in the middle of the island on a junction I didn’t know where.

Sitting surrounded by locals who didn’t speak my language I was trying to catch a ride to a bay on the east coast. Using hands and feet I eventually got on a minivan.

But until today I have no idea where I stayed.

I got to the coast eventually and found the beach after some walking. Fancy resorts were all I found. Getting laughed at by an owner asking for a dorm room. Not available on this side of Zanzibar.

Walking down the beach later in the day I realized that this was the honeymoon coast. I was seen as an exotic traveler next to nothing but couples.

Not letting that ruin my experience I played in the water with local kids and was amazed by the strength of the tides over here. During low tide, lots of seaweed came to the surface making it an unpleasant experience in the water.

Michamvi Kae

I remember some traveler on this trip recommended my this backpackers in the middle of nowhere. I can’t remember who. Or how I got there. But I remember staying longer than planned.

The place was further away from the ocean than all the other accommodations I staying in on the island but it was by far the best one. Located on the eastern tip of the island just next to a sanctuary or national park, I can’t remember. It was absolute heaven.

Walking through a forest on local trails I found the beach. Abandoned by tourists. Left alone from civilization. Nature at its best. Walking along the coast I got into a delta. Flooded during high tide but creating lots of beautiful sandbanks during low tide.

I obviously didn’t take my camera with me. Or took any pictures at all from this area. I was too much in the moment. Enjoying the water, the calmness, and the exclusiveness of this place.

On the other side of the peninsula, a popular restaurant was built onto a rock. During low tide, you can walk to the place, on high tide you need to take a boat or swim there.

Meeting two other backpackers we walked down the road trying to find this place. It was a longer walk than expected but we found it eventually. Making it onto the rock we didn’t stay long since we couldn’t afford a drink there.

Walking back to my hidden gem I crossed a forest and followed palm tree alleys. Listening to the birds and the wind blowing through the treetops I felt the connection to nature.

Final words

As you could hear from the tone of my words I absolutely loved the island. I had loads of fun exploring the coastlines and relaxing on those tropical beaches. A real part of paradise.

My trip is already six years in the past but if anyone would ask me to go back there I wouldn’t hesitate for a second.

“Dance with the waves, move with the sea. Let the rhythm of the water let your soul set free.” — Christy Ann Martine

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Anne Bonfert is a traveler. Photographer. Writer. Teacher. Skydiving instructor. Adventure enthusiast. Nature lover. And fell in love with the African continent.

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