LIFE THROUGH THE LENS OF MY CAMERA

Tarifa Beach, A Celebration of Color and Motion

The Pillars of Hercules create conditions that bring the action of kite surfing to the beaches of Tarifa, Spain

October 2022 — The Pillars of Hercules stand over the Straits of Gibraltar and their presence made for a wonderful afternoon in Spain. But not for the reasons one would think. Two major features stand as the pillars at the straits, the Rock of Gibraltar on the north side and Mount Hacho and Jebel Moussa to the south. In ancient times, they marked the western limits of the Mediterranean World. In modern times, these features are recognised for creating a unique weather pattern, making the Spanish beaches near Tarifa, Spain the most popular in Europe for kite surfers. It is here my wife and I experience a delightful afternoon viewing and photographing the whirling kaleidoscope of colorful wind kites flying over the blue Atlantic.

The weather pattern created by the pillars results in strong and consistent winds. Funneling created by the Straits of Gibraltar causes a Venturi effect during winds blowing from Africa or in the opposite direction from the Atlantic. The two winds, known as Levante (Easterly wind) or Poniente (Westerly wind from the Atlantic), prevail for over 300 days in a year. Steady winds and the level tan sand beaches of Tarifa make for the perfect sail kite location.

My wife and I are no strangers to Spain. We live in the hills above Estepona, which is on Spain’s Gold Coast (Costa Del Sol). But we had not made our way to the Atlantic side. Looking for a new adventure, we decide to explore the area around the town of Tarifa. Less than two hours away, the trip is a peaceful drive down A-7 to Algeciras, where we pick up N-340 to Tarifa. The drive takes us over the mountains to the beach. Along the way, we see brown and olive hills spotted with windmills on our right. The Atlantic and the African mountains are on our left. It is a chance to see a distinct part of Spain and makes for an enjoyable ride to Tarifa.

But then there is the not so pleasant task of parking. A not-so-fun affair it is not obvious where the parking lot is. Parking turns out to be an unpaved dusty stretch of gravel that area stretches along the backside of the beaches. I query google and find it hidden from the main road by low-standing trees. Driving slowly we search for two carefully camouflaged one-lane entrances. Once into the lot, we are confronted by an endless line of RVs and parked cars. Threading our way between cars, people, dogs and charcoal grills, we find a spot. I make a mental note to come earlier next time we make the trip.

The parking effort is a small price to pay for what comes next. Crossing a rickety wooden boardwalk, we make our way to the beach to be confronted by a glorious sight of what must be hundreds of brightly colored kite sails floating in the air. They stretch into the distance along a tan sand beach bounded by the azure blue Atlantic. A steady 20 knot wind blowing parallel to the beach holds the vista of sails in place. The direction of the wind creates a wave free shoreline allowing surfers to launch at waters edge.

We work our way up the beach towards the direction of the town of Tarifa. To our left are hundreds of kite surfers readying their gear, along with colorful banners marking the various schools that teach the art of surfing the wind. In front of us are wet-suited surfers preparing to launch their kites. Some with the confidence of an experienced rider, others with their instructors at their side. To our right, across the sparkling sea, dance the kite surfers that have made their way out onto the water. They are blended into the moment with a joyful sense of unfettered freedom as they race across the waves, leaping and pirouetting into the air.

The sight makes for a kaleidoscope of motion and color. I comment to my wife that perhaps we should take some lessons. She reminds me we are not of that age anymore. I remind her it’s hard to tell because she looks as good as on the day I met her. She smiles, gives me a kiss, and reiterates her negative on the lessons. The beach, the kites and the day are delightful for us both as we get drawn into the moment.

With smiles on our face and a lightness of heart, we spend the afternoon walking on the beach, marveling at the show. My camera in hand capturing the moment. As our afternoon ends, we cross the sandy beach, walk along the rickety boardwalk and return to the car. It has been a good day. We have witnessed the show put on by hundreds of surfers dancing on the wind and waves. A show courtesy of the Pillars of Hercules.

Thanks for reading. If you enjoyed this travel story feel free to read my others. They are listed below.