Okinawa, Japan, and Nature Photography

Swimming Alongside a Sea Turtle at Zamami Island

Zamami Island, off the island of Okinawa, appears to be a paradise on Earth

I had never seen clouds like those I saw in Okinawa. The puffy billows floated in blue skies as they reflected off the clear water below.

Okinawa Island is the largest of the Ryukyu Islands of Japan. The island chain stretches from one of Japan’s big islands, Kyushu, southwest to Taiwan. Okinawa is also the name of the Japanese prefecture (like a state) that includes Okinawa Island and hundreds of other islands in the western Pacific Ocean.

My wife, Kazumi, grew up on the island of Okinawa, in the house her mother, Miyoko, and brother, Tadashi, still call home. The house is located within 200 yards (183 m) of the East China Sea, the part of the Pacific Ocean that separates Okinawa from the Chinese mainland, 300 miles (483 km) west.

On one visit to Okinawa, Tadashi took Kazumi, our son Grant Takashi (dragon), and me on a tour of Zamami Island. On the island, we enjoyed experiences I shall never forget.

We boarded a ferry at the port in Naha, the capital city of Okinawa. Our ferry sailed under picture-perfect skies and over clear turquoise waters.

Okinawa is a warm and subtropical place. If you go there, you will find that the Okinawan people are warm and friendly, too.

After we arrived at Zamami Island’s port, we walked from the ferry to the resort Tadashi had booked for us. Shisa (Okinawan for lion) welcomed and protected us along the way. The terra-cotta lion figures, which are called Shishi in mainland Japan, decorate roofs and walls throughout Okinawa.

At the resort, our hosts greeted us and showed us to our cabin. They were a married couple who had moved to Zamami Island from mainland Japan (Japanese call their big islands the ‘mainland’) several years earlier.

The hosts were also expert SCUBA divers who guided guests on underwater tours to find and watch the island’s Manta Rays. The rays can reach widths of 23 feet (7 m) and weigh up to 2,980 pounds (1,350 kg).

After we had settled into our cabin, we explored the village of Zamami as we looked for a place to dine. After we chose a restaurant and sat down, several of us ordered Okinawa soba, a delicious Okinawan staple. It consists of noodle soup topped with vegetables and pork.

Southern cuisine in hot climates is normally hot and spicy. Since the soba itself is not spicy, I sprinkle it with togarashi, a blend of ground hot peppers. Surprisingly, my wife and her family prefer mild flavors and are shocked whenever they see how much togarashi I apply to dishes.

After a good night’s sleep, our hosts treated us to a fabulous breakfast. We learned that they are not only expert SCUBA divers but excellent cooks as well.

In some regions of Japan, the presentation of food is as important as its taste. The breakfast dishes were attractive, delicious, nourishing, and nutritious. I wish I had taken photos of the food to capture and share its beauty.

Following breakfast, we grabbed our snorkeling gear and strolled to the port. There, we boarded a water taxi that carried us to an islet across the bay.

After a short ride, the captain dropped us off on a sandy beach. We marched across white sand to find a suitable spot to erect “Camp Runtsch.”

The overhead summer sun in subtropical Okinawa can quickly burn skin. So, it’s important to apply sunscreen regularly and occasionally take shelter. Tadashi came prepared for the heat with a shade tent and a cooler filled with refreshing drinks. So, before we entered the water, we set up the tent, which allowed us to take shelter from the sun’s rays.

After we set up camp, we put on our snorkels and fins and waded into the water. The water was as warm as the air, so we needed no transition before swimming to the coral reef several strokes from shore.

Alternatively, we swam among tropical fish and took shelter in our little tent. The fish seemed to welcome us and rarely swam away as we approached them.

We enjoyed our semi-private beach experience at Camp Runtsch. But the biggest thrill came when we swam alongside a sea turtle who must have measured six feet (1.8 m) long. While the gentle creature appeared to glide slowly, we could not keep up. Finally, it descended into the depths, and we lost sight of the gentle giant.

Kazumi, Tadashi, Grant, and I agreed that swimming with a sea turtle had been one of the best experiences of our lives. I smile as I look back on those few seconds when I swam by its side.

After several hours of wading, swimming, and sunshine, we caught a water taxi back to Zamami’s port. We needed a few hours to relax and rejuvenate out of the hot summer sun.

We savored a lunch of Okinawan cuisine and washed it down with plenty of iced green tea. As we ate, our voices were animated with joy as we discussed the beautiful fish and the sea turtle we had experienced that morning.

We enjoyed our experiences on the islet across the bay from Zamami Island so much that we decided to return to the water that afternoon. So, we took a guided snorkeling tour to deeper waters in the bay.

The smiles never left the faces of our guides, who showed us some of the best underwater scenery Okinawa has to offer.

The guides recommended that we wear life jackets because of the dangers associated with deeper water. While I am a reasonably strong swimmer; stronger than my family members, I heeded their advice.

After we entered the water, what we could see from the surface amazed us. In addition to colorful tropical fish, one of the guides showed us a giant sea cucumber.

I have fond memories of our visit to Zamami Island. It included many special experiences, including our time at Camp Runtsch and wonderful meals. But swimming among tropical fish and sea turtles was among the most memorable experiences of my life.

Okinawa is 9,000 miles (14,484 km) from where Kazumi and I live in Minnesota, in the Upper Midwestern region of the USA. The COVID-19 Pandemic required Kazumi and Grant to postpone their 2020 trip to Kazumi’s childhood home. But Japan has opened its borders, so Kazumi will return to visit her mother Miyoko and brother Tadashi in July.

Kazumi will stay in Okinawa for 3 1/2 months. I will miss her but will look forward to her return in November.

But we hope to return to Okinawa next year with Grant Takashi, who has matured into manhood. If all goes according to plan, Kazumi, Tadashi, Grant, and I will reestablish Camp Runtsch on the islet across the bay from Zamami Island.

Thank you to Anne Bonfert for announcing the “Flow Like Water” monthly challenge. Also, thanks to her, Adrienne Beaumont, JoAnn Ryan, and Gerald Sturgill for making Globetrotters a fun place to read and share travel stories from around the globe.