Stare down at the Irish pub in Paris.
Don’t tell me the French are rude.
Two cultures went to war Saturday night at the Green Linnet in the heart of Paris. Thankfully, no shots were fired. A table of tourists watched the rugby world cup match on the television overhead while the Irish session musicians milled around at the bar, waiting politely for the rugby fans to clear out so the music could begin.
It wasn’t a question of noise. It was a question of table real estate. It is traditional, twice a week, for the drinkers at the tables under the television to make way for the (also drinking) musicians. The television stays on. That’s just what is done, and normally, the non-musician drinkers move aside.
But not last night. Last night the rugby fans were doggoned if they were going to allow a bunch of fiddlers to challenge their right to finish the match. (Which of course they could have done, as everybody else did, by sitting on barstools or standing around with beers in hand.)
And that was that. In two years, I have not seen that kind of stubborn resistance. And so I have also not seen the grace with which my French friends simply let it happen. Even the bartender could not budge this clueless mass of sports fans.
There is an etiquette to Irish sessions. Each session is different, but wandering musicians know what questions to ask, either outright or by observing. Is there a session leader? How do the tune sets get started? Who can join in? Is there a core circle? When do you get to be considered a regular? And what is the universe of tunes and songs that this particular session inhabits? (In a predominantly Irish session, can the random strathspey slip through the door?)
The sessions in my Oregon home town are open until they are not — that is, until the public session splits into the public face and then the private, ‘house’ session by invitation. That is the passive-aggressive way to manage a session, I have to admit. There are generally no named leaders — just folk who host, or know the bar owners, or maintain the email lists.
In Portland, up the road, many of the public sessions are closed (not open to newcomers). I find this sad and discouraging. It is probably done to nurture a high level of musicianship, but I think there are better ways to do that — like allowing high level musicians to begin many of the sets.
I have no objection to ‘slow sessions’ — sessions designed to bring along beginners. That’s how it’s done, and they are a huge service to the worldwide fellowship of Irish players.
My Paris session is wide open and the musicianship is admirable. Also, beginners and intermediate players are welcome to begin sets. Songs are included, both accompanied and a capella, and always cheered. New tunes and songs are heard all the way through, and applauded. Because the French don’t believe that watching adults drink alcohol in public will irreparably damage children, young players sometimes sit at the table with the older ones. Someone invites them to start a set — and that is how the session culture is nurtured.
Rugby fans, come on. Be polite. Be respectful. Get a clue. You can watch the match. We all do. Just — give us the tables. Come on.