Summary

A traveler recounts their eventful visit to Rome, marked by political demonstrations, a suicide attempt, and the exploration of historical landmarks amidst the city's challenges with tourism pricing and transportation strikes.

Abstract

The traveler arrived in Rome on the eve of a significant political transition, encountering a massive protest in the city. They witnessed a dramatic suicide attempt at the Colosseum and navigated through the city's challenges, including a transportation strike and inflated prices for tourists. Despite these hurdles, they managed to visit iconic sites such as the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, the Pantheon, and the Trevi Fountain, often avoiding crowds by starting early. They also discovered lesser-known gems like Sant'Ignazio de Loyola, appreciating its artistic beauty and tranquility. The narrative includes reflections on the disparity between local prices and tourist pricing, as well as personal anecdotes about the logistics of their trip, including finding accommodation and dealing with cash-only transactions.

Opinions

The author initially found Rome to be chaotic due to the protests and a suicide attempt at the Colosseum.
They express a mix of fascination and frustration with the city's approach to tourism, highlighting the stark difference in prices for locals versus tourists.
The narrator is critical of the €1.50 latte price hike from a local café to a tourist hotspot, considering it a "rip-off."
They found the metro strike and the subsequent search for an ATM to be inconvenient, but they adapted to these challenges.
The guided tour of the Colosseum was deemed not worth the extra cost.
The author was impressed by the beauty and relative peacefulness of Sant'Ignazio de Loyola, considering it an "undiscovered treasure."
They highly recommend visiting the Pantheon with an audio guide, believing it to be a must-see attraction in Rome.
The traveler was pleased with the purchase of Murano glass necklaces, considering it a unique find amidst the tourist-filled Trevi Fountain area.
The author expresses some anxiety about carrying valuables, including cash and a bottle of Johnny Walker, while returning to their apartment.

Riotous Rome (Roma)

Crowds of protestors filled the streets

Well, not actually riotous, but we arrived the night before the new President took over (or Prime Minister or both, I’m not quite sure), and on our first foray into the city came across (you couldn’t miss it) the biggest crowd of protesters I’d ever seen.

Caught up in a demonstration

There must have been thousands of banner-carrying, flag-waving demonstrators, and almost as many police watching the procession as well as helicopters filming it. It’s even made the news in Australia, and we (Stacey and I) were there! Look out for my bright pink jacket!

A suicide attempt

Later, we came across a suicide attempt at the Colosseum (she was eventually talked down) but she had written a note asking for someone to feed her cat, which touched me. I don’t really know if this were true — I heard it from an American bystander who was incredibly good looking — not many good-looking men in this part of the world — maybe I’m just getting picky in my old age!

Later on, we encountered a roadblock — lots of police measuring things on the ground and marking exhibits A, B etc. We asked one policeman for directions but forgot to ask what was happening! Times are hard in Rome, and apparently all of Italy, but they still want to make a killing from the tourists, which I suppose I would in the same circumstances. For example, this morning, we paid €1.50 for a latte for breakfast at a café just down the road from our apartment, and later paid €6.50 for a latte in Piazza Navona — a tourist hot spot.

Coffee shop toilets are free

We only bought a coffee because we wanted to use their toilets! Later we found out that you can use coffee shops’ toilets for free as public toilets are rare. You don’t have to buy a coffee to do so. I wouldn’t mind paying double, but more than quadruple is a bit of a rip-off! I digress. On our first night in Rome, we ventured out for an Italian meal. We had arrived quite late and were not sure if we would find anything open, but Romans eat late! As we were leaving after filling up on cannelloni, carbonara, ravioli and calzone, there were groups of people just arriving for dinner. It was after 10!

Stacey and I sat up planning our day tomorrow. We had planned to catch a metro to the Colosseum and get there when it opened to avoid the crowds — I hate crowds! We sat up till we could sit no longer, and once we had a plan, went to bed. I slept snuggled up with Keeley in a big comfortable bed. Oh, I am going to miss her warm body in the coming winter. Oh, I am going to miss her all round. We have been through so much together.

Best laid plans

Stacey and I started early hoping to get to the Colosseum by 9 but of course, the metro was closed-— a strike apparently. We managed to catch a bus which took forever to get to the Termini train station. Because of the strike, the streets were clogged with traffic and masses of demonstrators were starting to congregate at the station.

If we are going to see Pompeii, we are going to have to stay in Rome for an extra night. We found the Pop Inn Hostel right next to the train station. Baby, their receptionist, was very helpful and said she could book our Pompeii tour and the shuttle bus could pick us up from the hostel. Fantastic — the only problem is we have to be there by 6.30 am! Oh, and we have to pay in CASH! So I started the search for the ATM which would give me cash. After several ATMs and two banks, I finally gave up the quest and Stacey got the money from her account for the tour — €351 for the three of us.

The Colosseum

Business done, we headed off to the Coliseum arriving in time for the 1.45 pm English tour which cost an extra €5 on top of the €12 ticket and wasn’t worth it at all.

Our guide didn’t even mention the second floor let alone take us there but of course, we did it ourselves and it was great — a lot about the history of Nero and the burning of Rome as well as many artefacts from Nero’s villas. After walking around the Colosseum several times, we exited near the Roman Forum ruins, and then walked down past the Piazza Venezia where we stopped for a beer — €8 each! and to share a pizza — only €9.

Can you tell I’m an Aussie? Photo by Stacey Mulcahy

We finally made it home after almost a whole day’s walking and went straight out to dinner at the restaurant next door where I ate scallopini Roma and drank more red wine. Then straight to bed after the longest day of walking I’ve had. My back recovered after a little heat treatment, but my legs ached and ached until I finally fell asleep from pure exhaustion.

Forget the Vatican — See Sant’Ignazio de Loyola instead

The exterior of Sant’Ignazio de Loyola. Photo by author

Stacey decided to walk with me to Sant’Ignazio de Loyola. Sant’Ignazio de Loyola is the church I really wanted to see in Rome because of the trompe l’oeil painted by Father Andrea Pozzo who was a Jesuit brother and a very talented painter if you ask me. Once again, the photos don’t do it justice. The big bonus was it was an undiscovered treasure as there were only a handful of tourists in the whole church and the church itself was very beautiful even without the amazing ceilings!

The ceiling of Sant’Ignazio de Loyola is actually flat! Photo by author

The Pantheon

On the way to Sant’Ignazio, we came across the Pantheon and wandered inside, marvelling at the sheer size of it. We tossed up whether or not to get an audio guide, but when we found out we could get two for €7, we went for it. What a great idea! It was fantastic and I could write pages on the Pantheon — but I won’t. If you ever come to Rome, put it on your must-see list and don’t forget to get the audio guide too! You won’t be disappointed.

The Trevi Fountain

On to Trevi Fountain which was very beautiful despite the hordes of snap-happy tourists (yeah, yeah, we were just another two!) And the find of the day! Murano glass necklaces for €2.50. We bought 9 of them but am regretting I didn’t buy more as no one else had seen them. My feet were screaming enough, so I decided to head back to our apartment carrying the Murano glass necklaces and Stacey’s bargain purchase of a bottle of Johnny Walker which she took out of her bag and handed to me just as I was jumping on the bus.

When I got off the bus at the last stop, I still faced quite a walk clutching a bottle of Johnny to my chest, glass necklaces in a carry bag, and €1500 in my purse to pay for our week’s accommodation in Cinque Terre. To say I was a little nervous is an understatement. I couldn’t get back to our apartment fast enough!