AUGUST WRITING CHALLENGE — ROAD TRIPS

Returning to Transylvania — Where I Found More Than Just My Roots

Following the tracks and finding history

I might be born in Germany but I’ve never been proud of it. I’m proud of my ancestors and the beautiful Transylvania. It’s where my roots are to be found. It’s where my parents grew up and where the origin of the language we speak at home comes from.

When my grandpa was still alive he told me the story of how our ancestors moved from the Rhine-Main-Moselle region (three rivers in or at the borders of Germany, Luxemburg, and France) to what is known today as Transylvania.

He didn’t have any short-term memory anymore but made a point of carrying on the history of our ancestors in the hope I would do the same one day, with my children or grandchildren. Knowing, that our culture is dying.

I am one of very few in my age group who still speak Siebenbürger Sächsisch or “Transylvanian Saxon” (in English) which has nothing to do with the German ethnicity of Saxons.

Most of our ancestors left their home in Romania during the time of communism when most of their land got stolen or they left after the Sovjet Union fell apart.

There are now large communities of Transylvanian Saxons living in Germany trying to keep their culture alive by hosting yearly festivals but who knows for how long still.

Here, we are just known as Germans that speak a weird language. In Romania, we were also just known to be Germans. Our ancestors weren’t rich. Not rich in money but in the craft. They were farmers, craftsmen, engineers, doctors, lawyers, and whatever a country needed.

And yes, I am proud of being one of them. And I am proud of speaking the language that isn’t quite German but has nothing to do with the Romanian language either. In fact, our language is closest to Luxembourgish.

This was just a bit of background information on me and my ancestors. Because well, I often talk about it but never in depth.

Reading Adrienne Beaumont‘s article about traveling through Transylvania brought back many childhood memories. She traveled through the cities my dad and my mom studied in and even drove through the tiny, unknown village my mom grew up in.

That was when I decided I could also write a story about my last road trip through Romania. It’s been a few years but I still have very fond memories of it. It was the last trip we did as a family. All four of us. My parents, my sister and me. I know, I never talk about my sister, the reason being is she doesn’t want me to. This is also why I don’t share pictures of her.

This trip happened back in 2012. I was 19 at the time, had finished school, and had my driver’s license for about a year. But where I really learned to drive was on this trip. Driving in Romania is a different game. And yes, my parents let me drive a lot.

Sighişoara/ Schäßburg

This is the closest city to where my mom grew up and where she completed some of her school years. It’s a beautiful town with a castle and a lovely old town in the center of it.

In case you’re wondering why all these towns have two names, one is Romanian and one is German. Created by the Transylvanian Saxons who built most of the towns in this region.

Saschiz/ Keisd

The village my mom was born in. It’s where she grew up and where she lived again when she wasn’t allowed to work anymore because she was engaged to a “German” (my dad escaped to Germany in 1988 which wasn’t allowed in the communist country back then).

When we visited in 2012, my grandparents still owned their house. They didn’t want to sell their property because well, it was their everything. Maybe they were hoping to return one day.

The house with all its acres of farmland is sold today. For next to nothing. Now, all that is left are memories.

On this trip, we stayed two nights in a newly built B&B at the edge of town. Their own house was too fragile to sleep in. Those walls looked like they’d collapse any moment.

But we did inspect it. For the memories. And for a photo shoot.

One of my mom’s uncles still lives in town. Today. He’s just over 80 now. He never liked it in Germany. His wife and children had built up their new life but he stayed behind. One of the few Transylvanian Saxons left in Keisd.

My mom and I hiked with him up to the old castle on top of the mountain. It’s from where you can get a great view of the village. I take photographs. My mom tells stories. Of her childhood days.

Sibiu/ Hermannstadt

While my mom and my sister stayed with friends in Cluj-Napoca, my dad and I hit the road further into Transylvania. I wanted to see more castles, the countryside and his town of course.

Just before entering Sibiu, the city my dad studied in, we stopped to visit this lovely museum. Muzeului Astra is displaying houses from the old days. Including the machines, they used on the farms.

When we got to Sibiu I remember seeing lots of stray dogs in the streets. I loved the square in the city and many of the old buildings. The architecture was beautiful.

We also did go shopping in one or two malls. Something my dad surely loved, not. But hey, you do a lot of things for your daughter I heard.

Cisnădie/ Heltau

And now we were nearing his childhood memories. Staying with one of his friends we were now in the village my dad grew up in. Even though I'm not allowed to say village since he always makes sure everyone knows this town had be declared as a city.

However, below is the house my dad grew up in. His parents sold it to a Roma family when they left for Germany but every time we return we are welcomed with open arms. He shows me his childhood room and the backyard.

Then we headed on into the center of town. The church castle is definitely the highlight for my young self who had a passion for photography already back then.

The backyard, the brick walls, lots of green, and of course the old architecture of the building were fascinating.

My dad might have taken a picture or two of me as well.

Then we climbed the tower. I was mesmerized by the views. From different windows, I could see in all four cardinal directions but one was my favorite. The one towards the mountains.

Heltau lies at the base of the Carpathian mountains. It’s where my dad used to hike all summer long and where he learned to ski in winter. On a pair of wooden planks. Not more or less.

Rîul Sadu/ Zodttal

Without my mom and sister, my dad and I went on an adventure. Together with his friend, we drove up into this tiny valley in the Carpathian mountains. Just for the day.

We swam in the freezing cold river, made a fire, tanned in the sun, and drove back down again.

Since they decided to work on the only road leading up the valley, we had to switch the sides of the river and drive on some dirt tracks.

I mean, I had to. I was the designated driver. My dad thought this off-road adventure was pretty funny and made a few comments about my driving. Only until his friend shut him up saying I was doing a good job in driving. And that guy should know. He was a driving teacher in Romania.

Possibly the biggest compliment I ever got on my driving skills.

Raşnov/ Rosenau

Don’t remember much about this place except for the name on the hill. It made me think of Hollywood. The Hollywood of Transylvania. And yes, this is what Transylvania and my ancestors are known for.

Amazing castles. On the hill.

Bran with Castelul Bran/ Törzburg

Yes, this is the castle known to be the Dracula castle. Even though this is only a sales trap for tourists since Vlad III. Drăculea most probably never placed a foot in this town, but we still went in for the show.

Definitely, the most touristic place in all of Transylvania we visited on this trip. While I surely will return for some more of their castles, I’ll be skipping this one next time.

Vulcanii Noroioşi / Schlammvulkane von Berca

This is a place I never expected to find in Romania. These mud volcanoes found in the nature park are caused by the eruption of mud and natural gases.

While it was a hot summer in Romania back then, this was by far the hottest place we experienced on our trip. Temperatures were far above 40°C and we didn’t last long in the burning sun.

Enjoying the countryside in Transylvania

Yes, we always chose the scenic route. If there were two options to get to our destination, I picked the more windy and less traveled road. This also meant we could stop and I was able to enjoy my sandwich sitting in the middle of the road.

Or watching donkeys walk past.

Oh, and then all these street vendors.

My paradise.

My dad’s nightmare.

Did I talk about traffic yet? There was all kind of traffic to be found on the road. From ox wagons and horse carriages to trucks overtaking you while you were speeding already.

Bucureşti/ Bucharest

It was my wish. To visit the capital of Romania on this trip. I had never been before and really wanted to see the city (apparently I was more interested in it than seeing the capital of Germany, which took me another 10 years.)

I don’t know why. Because I was seriously disappointed. I didn’t like anything about Bucharest.

I’m not sure why. I think because of the presence of Soviet buildings all around. Because it reminded me of how much my parents suffered under communism in the country.

But it is why I don’t talk more about it.

Final words

It was a road trip I was looking forward to for a long time and a trip I still talk about now, even ten years later. But it is also a trip that made me understand a lot more since it was my first trip to Romania as an adult.

I will always see my roots in this country, in the beautiful region of Transylvania. And one day I will be back. Together with my husband to show him the beauty of this country.

P.S.: A big thank you goes to my dad who did most of the work for this article. All the photos of this trip are on a hard drive at my parents' place and when I enquired about sending them, I was told there were over 4000 files and the total size was 32GB. Even too large for wetransfer. Therefore, he selected a few cities and towns we drove through and send me some pictures.

Read more about Romania in this story: “Fascinating Romania”

This is a writing prompt response to the writing challenge of August for Globetrotters. Thank you The Sturg for the inspiration.

Here are my other writing prompt responses on road trips:

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