avatarAdrienne Beaumont

Summary

A traveler shares their personal experience of visiting Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia, highlighting the park's natural beauty, the challenges of the walk, and the impact of visiting during the off-season.

Abstract

The author recounts their visit to Plitvice Lakes National Park, a long-awaited destination known for its stunning waterfalls, lakes, and limestone formations. Despite stopping in Dubrovnik and Split, the park was the main focus of their Croatian adventure. They describe the park's beauty, the difficulty of the walkways, and the serenity of the experience, especially during the winter months when crowds were minimal. The narrative includes anecdotes about the author's struggle with balance, their enjoyment of the park's coffee, and the wildlife encounters, including a bird interested in their lunch. The author's partner, Erilyn, is credited with capturing the majority of the photographs due to the author's focus on navigating the terrain safely. The article concludes with a recommendation to visit the park and a nod to another writer's perspective on Plitvice Lakes in the summer.

Opinions

  • The author expresses a strong personal desire to visit Plitvice Lakes, which was fulfilled during their trip to Croatia.
  • They convey a sense of awe and respect for the park's natural beauty, particularly noting the clarity of the water and the colors of the lakes.
  • The author admits to some physical challenges, such as maintaining balance on uneven logs and navigating rickety boardwalks, but these do not detract from their overall enjoyment.
  • There is a clear preference for visiting the park in the off-season, as the lack of crowds enhanced the experience and allowed for a more intimate connection with nature.
  • The author values circular walking tracks and was pleased with the decision to explore further into the park, influenced by the presence of a coffee cup sign.
  • They show an appreciation for the park's diverse flora and fauna, including the discovery of mushrooms, fungi, and a curious bird.
  • The author expresses disappointment at not being able to enter certain caves but reflects fondly on previous cave snorkeling experiences in the Philippines.
  • There is a humorous tone in the recounting of the author's and Erilyn's interactions, with the author often reassuring Erilyn about their safety near the edges of the park's features.
  • The author recommends the park to others, suggesting that those who are younger and fitter should consider walking the top circuit as well.
  • They acknowledge the limitations of their photography skills and express gratitude for Erilyn's role in capturing the visit photographically.
  • The author suggests that while the park is reputedly more beautiful in summer, they found the winter visit to be a uniquely special experience.

Plitvice Lakes National Park

A photo story

This is why I came to Croatia Photos by Erilyn Wedd

On my bucket list since I first saw photos of its waterfalls, lakes, limestone escarpments and natural beauty, I finally made it.

On the way we stopped off at Dubrovnik and Split but they weren’t the focus of our Croatian adventure. Plitvice was!

We planned to wake early, have a buffet breakfast, and head to the park by 8 am. We didn’t do too badly and were first in the park at 9.

We looked at the maps and decided we’d do the shorter lower circuit supposedly 3.5km. My health app registered 6.7 km but that included the walk from our guest house.

The Big Waterfall

We walked down, down, down to the level of the lower lakes. I started taking photos but was making Erilyn anxious for my safety. I assured her I wouldn’t fall over the edge but she thought I was likely to drop my phone so she confiscated my phone until we reached a safer area so most of the photos are hers. I gave instructions, “Take a photo here. I hope you got a photo of that.” She took more than two hundred photos! It’s that sort of place.

Look at the beautiful colours and clear water.

It was a warm but windy day. I’m no lightweight. But I struggled to keep my balance on those uneven logs. I only slipped once. I was looking at the magnificence of the Big Waterfall and missed a step. I gave Erilyn a scare but I wasn’t frightened of falling into the water. It looked so clean and clear. I would have enjoyed a quick dip.

The wind was gusting and I struggled to keep my balance. My hiking pole aka walking stick kept getting caught in the gaps.
We walked around, over and beside the four lower lakes.

We walked along the board walk to the base of the big waterfall where a coach group caught up with us. They took photos and headed back the way they came back to the bus. Not enough time to experience the beauty and magic of nature.

The walkways were pretty ricketty in places

The lakes were various hues of blue and green but so crystal clear tiny pine cones were visible on the bottom of the lake.

One of the many rapids we crossed

We sat down to eat our packed lunch — mandarin segments, dried figs and sugared lemon peel — and were joined by a tiny bird who wanted some of my lunch. Later, I saw a sign saying, “Don’t feed the wildlife.”

This was my photo. Feel the serenity — I did.

Soon after lunch we arrived at the Y junction. Do we try to do some of the upper lakes route or should we return to our starting point? We still had plenty of time as our bus to Zagreb didn’t leave until 17.15 and it wasn’t noon yet. But the coffee cup on this sign was the deciding factor.

One of the many caves in the limestone cliffs. Of course I wanted to crawl in, but I might have got stuck

And I’d skipped coffee this morning in my excitement to get to the Park early. I didn’t want to go back the way we had come, not because it was difficult but I like walking circular tracks.

Walking back

Admittedly seeing the lakes through the trees was difficult, but look what we found instead. Nature is truly wonderful.

The greens of the lichens and mosses stood out against the stark white of the limestone rocks.

We discovered huge mushrooms and weird fungi growing on trees and logs. Even bench seats.

Mushrooms and fungi?
Looking down into Supljara

We even found a cave with no floor and no vault. (It had no bottom and no top) The information board told us it had started as a sink hole which then opened up vertically and horizontally and eventually the limestone dissolved and opened the tunnel to the lake. I love caves but we weren’t allowed in. I suspect it’s only accessible to experienced speleologists which I am not. I would like to have been though. I snorkeled through some caves in the Philippines and loved it.

The photos don’t do its beauty justice

Believe it or not I was more frightened on the walk back. The wind had reached gale force proportions. You can forget the wind was whistling through the trees; the sound of the wind in the trees was more like a truck roaring past you on the road. I’ve never heard that awful sound made by wind and was convinced a tree would come crashing down on us. Hence my my interpretation of this sign was “beware of falling rocks and trees.”

“No,” Erilyn said, “ it means don’t go too close to the edge or you may fall over!” She had been telling me that all day. She’s an intrepid traveller but a bit of a nervous Nellie when I get too close to the edge.

Goodbye, Plitvice Lakes

If you’re younger and fitter than I am, walk the top circuit as well. My spirit was willing but my body was weak.

The first is taken at the conclusion of the park walk, the second at the end of the day before I collapsed into bed. My screenshots
This is the only other photo I took! Not bad for an amateur if I say so myself

Apparently, it’s much more beautiful in the summertime, but I loved it in winter — no crowds pushing past me. We had the whole park to ourselves most of the day which had a special feeling you won’t get in summer.

Please thank Erilyn for the photos. She was probably right. If I’d tried to take photos on that ricketty boardwalk, I would have lost my balance.

If you want to see what it looks like in summer, read Victoria Hydes’ story.

Travel
Croatia
Plitvice Lakes
Bucketlist
Photography
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