Summary

Two travelers take a photographic journey through rural Morocco, avoiding the typical tourist routes and capturing the region's natural beauty.

Abstract

After visiting kasbahs and movie studios, the author and Stacey Mulcahy embark on a road trip through rural Morocco, opting for a less-traveled route despite warnings. They encounter stunning landscapes, surreal geological formations, and local culture, with Stacey capturing the experience through hundreds of photographs. Despite a few challenges, such as a scary drive over the High Atlas and a less-than-ideal stay at an auberge, the travelers are rewarded with unique vistas and experiences that few tourists get to see. The journey concludes with a sense of privilege for witnessing the natural beauty of this part of Morocco.

Opinions

The author initially had reservations about the rural route but embraced the adventure.
Stacey Mulcahy is characterized as an adventurer who enjoys photography.
The author values the lack of traffic and the opportunity to experience solitude and nature.
The scenery is described as spectacular and majestic, making the journey worthwhile.
The author feels privileged to have experienced the less-visited parts of Morocco.
The author expresses dissatisfaction with the amenities at the auberge, particularly the sanitation issues.
The author appreciates the unique photographic opportunities provided by the rural landscapes.
The author prefers the freedom of self-driven travel over organized tours, as demonstrated by the encounter with a tour bus.

TRAVEL|MOROCCO

Photographic Rural Morocco

Part of the country few tourists visit

The start of our road trip. Photo by author

After our big day visiting kasbahs and movie studios, I thought I’d sleep like a log but woke up just after midnight worrying about our trip today.

I did not want to go back the way we had come — that terrifying drive over the High Atlas — but that had been recommended to us as the best way. I sat up and planned an alternate route on rural roads and becoming more and more paranoid about getting lost, I wrote down the names of all the little villages so I’d know we were on the right track.

Checking we are on the right track Photo by author

Stacey still hadn’t decided which way she would drive so she asked our waiter, the receptionist and the guys who parked our car. Most said not to go the rural route, but Stacey, being the adventurer that she is, decided we’d give it a go. How bad could it be?

The landscape was surreal. Stacey Mulcahy took hundreds of photos

About 10 kilometres out of town, after encountering two huge trucks on the narrow road, she questioned her decision, but I said just keep going. After passing the quarry where the trucks had emerged from, we saw no more than a handful of cars all day. We did see people, donkeys and donkey carts and some mountain bikers who rode past us down the mountain but that was it. No traffic encroaching on our space!

Look at the colours! We were mesmerised. Photo by Stacey Mulcahy

Apart from one section where we were driving along the very edge of a grand canyon, the trip was enjoyable. The scenery was spectacular and more than made up for not having a two-lane highway. The majestic mountains surrounded us on all sides, and around each bend, the view opened up to a totally different vista. And to think that so very few people experience this beautiful part of Morocco because they stick to the national roads… I felt privileged that I had been a part of this natural beauty.

That’s a village down there Photo by Stacey Mulcahy

This part of the road was okay Photo by author

Have you ever seen anything like it? We hadn’t Photo by Stacey Mulcahy

We drove up and down over mountains but it wasn’t as scary as driving from Marrakech to Ouarzazate. Photo by author

The landforms! The colour variations! Photo by Stacey Mulcahy

The mountain bikers going downhill. Photo by author

More strange geological features Photo by author

Late afternoon, we arrived in a little village whose claim to fame was a natural arch over which a bridge had been built. Stacey walked down the path to photograph it, while I searched for coffee. Instant with UHT milk, but hey, beggars can’t be choosers. Stacey walked down to look at some pottery. The guy wasn’t bargaining. Ten dirhams (about a dollar) could buy you most things. Maybe it wasn’t his stall? Stacey bought 4 coffee cups, 5 pottery cups and 2 bowls for 100 dirhams. Bargain!

The natural arch Photo by Stacey Mulcahy

A tour bus from Marrakesh pulled in, and a busload of tourists spewed out, stayed ten minutes, had a quick look around and climbed back into the bus. It was going back the way it came so those tourists would have missed everything we had seen. The bus probably wouldn’t have survived the road. Luckily we had a four wheel drive vehicle. I know why I don’t like tours! Knowing we would inevitably be stuck behind the bus, I managed to get Stacey back into the car and off we went.

The roadside stall at the natural arch Photo by author Stacey was too busy buying!

We kept driving and after 7 and a half hours (and a few toilet stops) reached Tigmi Dar Samy, our auberge on the lake at Bin El Ouidane. An overpowering smell of Glen 20 greeted us as well as the hosts.

Opening the door to our terrace, we were desperate to let some fresh air in. We soon discovered the Glen 20 was to mask the stench of stagnant sewage — the toilet wouldn’t flush nor would the water drain from the shower.

In her rush to get out of the bathroom, Stacey broke the toilet seat, which I reported the next morning when I mentioned the non-flushing toilet and blocked drain in the shower. We checked out the other rooms and apart from the smell we did have the best one: a four-poster bed, a divan, a coffee table and our own terrace, and a view to die for.

Yes, that smell almost killed us! I was the lucky one who chose to sleep close to the bathroom. The only positive thing was there was a double door on the bathroom, which we kept closed at all times.

We had organised dinner: a chicken tajine. Again it was delicious with lots of different vegetables arranged decoratively on top of the chicken. And fresh fruit salad for dessert. Alas no wine, but we were prepared with our whisky.

Stacey deserved a drink after her long day driving and I deserved a drink for being patient with the hundred stops Stacey made for photo-taking opportunities. I was just happy that she wasn’t taking them while she was driving! And the photos are brilliant! You won’t find these in too many travel blogs, that’s for sure.

Our destination Bin El Ouidane Photo by Stacey Mulcahy