TRAVEL. WATER SPORTS.
Paddling Through the Hidden Wilderness
A beautiful nature paradise in Germany
It was so peaceful. Trees lining the riverside all the way. The sun was shining but the treetops were blocking most of the summer heat. Birds were chirping in the trees above our heads and we slowly paddled down the canal.
It was Monday morning and we had the whole day ahead of us. Our plan was to slowly paddle through the winding canals of Spreewald and stop whenever we were hungry. Now and then we were passing a settlement and there were several restaurants and beer gardens located right by the water.
We didn’t buy a map. There are so many small rivers and canals in this nature reserve that you can buy maps indicating the waterways like maps indicating hiking trails in the mountains.
We just paddled in one direction and decided to keep going until we got tired.
Talking of which. Our bodies were certainly tired. We had a long week behind us doing almost 50 jumps each (we’re both skydiving instructors and jump out of planes for a living).
But our minds felt refreshed. We loved seeing all the lush green around us and feeling the cooling air from the water below us.
Now and then we passed an old wooden bridge.
Then a set of sluices. We had to carry the paddleboard and the kayak out of the water, walk 10 meters, and put it back in. Just on the other side again.
I was in heaven.
Even though we had seen many people on the canals as we were entering the region, we barely passed anyone during the first hour on the water.
It was just us in the hidden wilderness.
We made a lunch break at the first beer garden we passed and then decided to keep going, coming back to our entry point in a round trip. According to Google maps, it looked doable.
We had to paddle a bit further to surround the town of Burg (yes, I know, Germans can be very creative by the name giving of places).
The canal got narrower and now we surely didn’t meet any other soul for the next hour or so.
We were passing a herd of cattle instead.
And spotted some rodents in the bushes. I couldn’t fully identify what kind of animals they were but they didn’t seem shy at all. They did not mind our presence.
Trees were hanging low above the water and I had to bend down more than once trying to pass the branches hanging down.
At some stretches, I was even forced to sit down back on my board in order to get through the thicket above the canal.
We were passing two junctions where we always chose the left canal thinking it was a shortcut for us and hoping the water level wouldn’t get too low.
We thought…
At first, the forest opened up and we paddled along a stretch in between fields.
The sky was blue with only a few clouds in the sky.
We truly enjoyed the paddle on these small canals.
Another junction, another shortcut.
The water level got very low and I had removed my middle fin already. But even without it, I was getting stuck in the sand at some spots.
However, it was time for a dessert. Bushes filled with blackberries were hanging low above the water. While my husband was telling me to be careful with the board due to the thick thorns, I stopped and ate.
Blackberries can be a bit sour if you eat them before they fully ripen. These ones were so sweet and ripe, they fell into my hand when I touched them.
Such a delicious treat and dessert from nature.
Yes, this is how low the water level got. As you can see in the image below, the canal wasn’t even 20 centimeters deep.
There aren’t any more pictures of the upcoming fight in the mud and sand. At one point my husband got out of the kayak and walked through the water.
Eventually, we got to a point where it seemed like we were at the back of some industrial company.
My husband was getting nervous saying we have to get out of the water now before we get into trouble. The problem was just the riverside was rather thick and covered in stinging nettles.
I was barefoot. Like always.
But I got the urgency my husband was pushing me and took his slippers that protected at least the sole of my foot from getting thorns. I picked up my paddleboard and waded through the thicket. I could feel the stinging all over my legs.
I placed the board in the grass next to the river and told my husband to walk 5 more meters downriver where I saw a better spot to get out. We both lifted the kayak together out of the water.
We now found ourselves on someone’s property. We knew the big river of the Spree must be just a hundred meters from us but were unsure of where to cross the property.
A lady was walking towards the compost bringing food scraps and I approached her asking first where the river was and secondly if she’d mind if we crossed her property.
She was very friendly and showed us even the direction we should walk in.
We lifted the boards, walked a hundred meters, and finally found some deeper water again. But it wasn’t for long. We kind of just crossed the river and had to get out for a set of sluices.
First, we decided to take a rest and watch the fish in the river. We were getting tired now. This fight through the wilderness was rather tough toward the end.
We were entering the town and I first walked down to the square inspecting where and if we were allowed to enter the river. I was walking past a restaurant and some fancy-looking cafes.
This was where all rowing boat trips started and many people were getting in and out. Just no kayakers like us.
A man must have spotted me, the only person in the bikini, among all those dressed-up tourists asking if I was looking for a place to launch my kayak. I was first surprised how he knew what I wanted but quickly just said yes.
He showed me where and how and I was happy.
We carried the board and the kayak across the road, over the bridge, and past the restaurant placing them back in the water without further issues.
Being now on the big river and going with the current we could relax passing many tourists on small kayaks struggling to paddle in a straight line.
A mom was commenting on how effortless our movements looked. Well, if she only knew what we had been through. But that only happens when you take the trails (or canals in this case) off the beaten path. Which we somehow always manage. Disregarding how touristy an area is.
We find those secluded, serene, and often challenging trails.
It wasn’t long after we got back into the canal we had started our trip in and arrived at our car. With the last bit of energy left, we deflated the boards and packed everything into the car.
We still had to find a place to sleep for the night but knew wild camping wasn’t allowed in this nature reserve. We drove toward the only campsite we found and were rather lucky to get one of the last campervan spots left.
Not that we had a van, but placed our car in the middle of all the long-term holidaymakers.
It was a lovely evening and I can tell you one thing, we slept well that night.
“Smooth water does not make a skillful kayaker.” — Anonymous
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