GLIMPSES OF GERMANY

Mulled Wine in a Makeshift Pub

Enjoying a popular drink during Christmas time in the cozy corner of a somewhat familiar arrangement

It is that time of the year that I enjoy the most. It’s the holiday season, the period leading up to Christmas that continues well into the new year. I am not very religious, but what I do like about these few weeks is the fact that they mark the end of one year and the beginning of another. Every year, good or bad, needs to be given a proper send-off. Likewise, a new year deserves a grand welcome.

To me, it is this positivity that symbolizes life. As such, I eagerly wait for the end of the year, or rather, the beginning of the festive season. In fact, the anticipation of the traditional Christmas Markets has become a ritual over the years. While I have visited these beautifully decorated, cozy settings across Europe, it is those in the German-speaking countries that happen to be the most special.

These popular markets keep visitors engaged for four to six weeks with a wide variety of offerings, ranging from artistic performances and culinary temptations to handcrafted products and traditional Christmas decorations. That being said, there is something in particular that keeps attracting me to these markets.

It is Glühwein (mulled wine). Sounds familiar. Right? It is a spiced alcoholic concoction that is served hot. There is a non-alcoholic option as well, but it does not taste half as good.

Over time, I have learned to make glühwein at home, and can make it very well. However, I don’t do it anymore, the reason being a simple one. It is not just about savoring glühwein, it is also about soaking in the ambience. As such, the only time I consume this hot drink is during the festive season, and only in the Christmas Markets.

Not something to mull over

Anyone who’s ever been to a glühwein kiosk is aware of the pattern that is usually followed. You buy your drink, pay a deposit for the mugs, find a corner of the Christmas Market, or simply take a stroll and savor the spiced concoction in the company of your partner (or friends). Once you are done, you take the mugs to the kiosk, and they return your deposit.

You can help yourself to subsequent helpings, of course. In this case, they return the deposit once you are through with your final order. The idea of taking a deposit for the mugs is more of a necessity than a rule. Glühwein is very popular during the festive season, and in every Christmas Market, there are multiple kiosks selling this concoction. However, most of these markets are conspicuous by the presence of capacity crowds.

Some kiosks place tables in the adjacent area, and on a good day, you can place your mug on it while enjoying a smoke. However, more often than not, these tables are perpetually occupied. As such, most grab their glühwein mugs and move a little further from the kiosk. Unfortunately, I have come across very few kiosks that provide a seating area, and even then, they are mostly not well covered.

On a chilly day, it makes little sense to remain seated in an uncovered area for longer periods of time. On the contrary, taking a stroll until you find a comfortable corner makes a lot more sense. So, instead of hovering near the kiosk, I have a tendency to move away from it and take a stroll. That being said, given a choice, I would prefer to sit down and enjoy the drink. In fact, there was always this wish to enjoy the glühwein experience in an ambience that resembled a pub till...

… I came across one

It happened during a visit to Lüneburg in the state of Niedersachsen (Lower Saxony) late last year. While a lot of time was spent exploring the Christmas Markets inspired by Grimms’ fairy tales, it was towards the end of my visit that I came across this makeshift pub at the center of this Hanseatic city.

Even though I was delighted to have come across something I had been hoping to find for a long time, there was not much time left to make the most of the opportunity. As such, another visit to Niedersachsen had become imperative. Accompanied by my better half, I reached Lüneburg with high hopes. As luck would have it, we have found a place to sit in the middle of this makeshift pub.

On what was a relatively pleasant winter day, there were many people in and around the pub. Thankfully, there were more around it, ensuring we could not just get it but also make ourselves comfortable. It wasn’t a regular pub serving the mulled wine, but a glühwein kiosk set up as a heated room with multiple doors and adequate seating arrangements.

About half of the room resembled a well-stocked bar, and there was enough seating to accommodate around a dozen people. There was palpably the regular option of picking up your mug and reveling in the festive ambience outside the kiosk. But those who wished for some warmth could get in and place their orders inside this makeshift arrangement.

There were a plethora of glühwein combinations on offer (pictured above). There were gingerbread cookies placed on the tables. It was all about helping yourself and enjoying the warmth inside. We ended up spending over an hour, taking turns to sip the concoction, engage in conversation and play with a friendly affenpinscher that belonged to the old couple that were seated at the adjacent table.

A few moments later…

The old couple left the room well before we did, even if their affenpinscher seemed to be enjoying our company. We hung around a bit in the center, exploring the other stalls, before making our way out. Even as we continued walking around, reveling in the calm outside the center, we noticed another Christmas Market.

This was an initiative of what is arguably Lüneburg’s most high-profile hotel. The entire area was beautifully decorated, and there was an interconnecting bridge that was well lit. The historic buildings in the surrounding area offered a sharp contrast. This market had quite a few kiosks as well, including a couple that sold glühwein.

We had had our fill, so there was no point in fetching yet another mug. Even as we made our way back, we happened to see a couple of familiar faces. The old couple, with the affenpinscher, were in front of a glühwein kiosk. They were busy sipping the concoction and enjoying each other’s company at a new kiosk altogether.

A familiar face

We had noticed him at the gate when we entered. But when we made our way out, it was considerably less crowded. In fact, there were only two families, with the parents helping their kids pose with Father Christmas.

Santa Claus was seated on a bench, welcoming visitors at the gate of this Christmas Market. The manner in which the statue was placed, and the bright lighting in the area, offered a perfect photo opportunity for anyone interested. I asked my better half if she was interested in striking a pose. She politely declined.

In any given year, she would have jumped at the prospect of a photo opportunity next to Santa. That being said, this year things are different. As such, the reason for her refusal made a lot of sense.

Only a few months ago, we traveled all the way to Rovaniemi and met Santa in person. Posing for photographs was part of that meeting. There is no way being photographed with a statue could be as memorable as meeting the person and posing next to him.

Making a second trip to Lüneburg in less than a year was well worth it. We were not only able to relish glühwein in a familiar arrangement but also got to see another Christmas Market. That being said, the holiday season has only begun. In the coming weeks, we plan to venture into territories hitherto unexplored. Hopefully, there are some pleasant surprises in store — something that will help make another memorable addition to our travel experiences.