Monopoli: Italy’s Hidden Paradise Revealed!
Sun, Sea, and Secrets of Puglia — Our Five-Day Adventure
A whirlwind of planning, a dash of spontaneity, and a ticket to Italy. Our mission? To blend a brief summer escape. The rendezvous point? Rome. But our real destination is the hidden Italian jewel of Monopoli. Join us for a whirlwind of adventure, culture, and charm in the heart of Puglia.
The preparations
Careful preparation preceded our short vacation with my partner, determining how to make it happen. It wasn’t straightforward and self-evident, unfortunately, because my wife could only take 3 days off work during the summer.
Furthermore, since I regularly take part in a one-week intensive meditation retreat in Tuscany in August, I wanted to connect the two trips. Thus, it was clear that Italy was our choice.
Logistics
After this, it only required a small logistical task to determine where and when we would meet with my wife following my participation in the program.
So our choice fell on Rome, which I approached by train, while my partner approached by plane. We wanted to spend a night in Rome because it was my wife’s specific request to see the Colosseum.
Unfortunately, we couldn’t fulfill Her desire because the tickets had sold out well in advance, and the next day our fast train was already heading to Bari, the capital of the Puglia region in Italy.
I forgot to mention the most important thing, when planning our short summer vacation, we chose Monopoli as our holiday destination.
So, after the train journey, which unfortunately took more than 4 hours and left something to be desired in terms of air conditioning, which was not pleasant in the hot summer weather, as soon as we arrived in Bari, we immediately transferred to a connecting train and headed towards Monopoli.
In Italy in general, but especially in Puglia, public transportation is great, including trains and buses. What’s even more important is that it’s affordable and relatively punctual!
What can you do in Monopoly and its surroundings?
Our planning task was very simple because wonderful bays and beaches are located directly in the city and its immediate vicinity. So, these coastal areas could be easily reached either on foot or by local bus services.
We wanted to include day trips in the program because, being active personalities, we couldn’t spend entire days at the beach.
Luckily for me, my spiritual teacher, with whom I spent the previous week in Tuscany, is from Southern Italy, and as a result, he suggested several worthwhile destinations that were also accessible by public transportation.
Of course, we wanted to indulge in culinary delights as well, so we planned to have one or two good pizzas and pasta dishes in our program.
The downtown of Monopoli is breathtaking; but, interestingly, very few tourists visit or spend their vacations here.
In summary, we didn’t need to spend much time planning because every aspect of the program came together beautifully, allowing us to start our harmonious yet active relaxation.
The first day — Arrival
So, on a warm August Wednesday afternoon, we arrived at Monopoli train station, where our chosen and booked accommodation was already waiting for us just a 12-minute easy walk away.
Our accommodation and host were fantastic, located in the city center right next to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II square, so due to its perfect location, everything was accessible.
By the way, I booked the accommodation too late, as I was unaware that in the second half of August, Italy simply shuts down, meaning everyone takes their vacations then.
So, the best accommodations get snapped up very quickly, and don’t even get me started on the highest prices due to the peak season!
Our host messaged us on WhatsApp early in the morning, welcoming us with warmth. Her kindness and hospitality were evident from the very first moment, as they proudly showed us around the spacious apartment that came with a private inner garden, which was perfect for enjoying intimate and romantic breakfasts and dinners we shopped for ourselves.
Our host also provided us with some good advice, primarily on where to find the most delicious food, which is a central issue in Italy.
Accordingly, we found a pizzeria, but we were not aware that dinner time in southern Italy begins around 9–10 in the evening.
We thought that if we arrived late at Ai Portici restaurant, we would be the last guests, but we were mistaken because the restaurant was full, we got the last available table and had a pleasant dinner.
Day two — Underground adventure and late afternoon swim
Following my Guru’s advice, we visited one of Italy’s most famous caves, which is an important tourist attraction and generally defined as one of the most beautiful and spectacular cave systems in Italy.
The Castellana Caves (Italian: Grotte di Castellana) are a vast underground system of karst caves, which was discovered in 1938.
The cave was easily accessible from the downtown of Monopli, with a 25-minute bus ride. Unfortunately, direct ticket purchase on the bus is not available, so you can buy tickets either at local tobacco shops or online on the Cotrap website for a few euros.
Right after our arrival, a group started, though with Italian-speaking guides, but the sights were truly amazing! We had a fantastic experience; but, we recommend that those who plan to visit the cave should be cautious of slipping, as the floor can be slippery due to humidity.
Additionally, wearing warmer clothing is advisable since the internal temperature of the cave is around 18 degrees Celsius.
After returning from the Grotte di Castellana, in the early afternoon, following a light lunch, we went to the nearest beach, which was called Porto Bianco. In reality, we arrived at the beach quite late, it was almost 6:00 PM, but despite that, there were still people on the beach, and we had about an hour and a half left until sunset.
The water was clear and warm, and you could walk quite far into it as it didn’t get deep quickly, so we had more time to enjoy the water while admiring the last rays of the setting sun.
Upon returning from the beach, unfortunately, repeating the mistake from the previous day, we had dinner again late in the evening, following the local customs. Since we are vegetarians, we didn’t have many choices for what to eat, so once again, we opted for pizza.
Day three — UNESCO World Heritage Site and Beach Holiday
The second suggestion for my spiritual teacher was Alberobello, which is a small town with 10,000 residents and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. It’s known for its trulli, whitewashed stone huts with conical roofs.
From Monopoli, the tourist site was accessible by a 1-hour bus ride. The bus departed from Pizza Sant’Antonio Square, but you had to buy the bus ticket at a small travel agency located 50 meters away.
Of course, we bought round-trip tickets because many attractions were awaiting us in the afternoon.
So, Alberobello is indeed a fantastic little town. The unique architectural style of the houses is what attracts crowds of tourists. For us, it was considered too much of a tourist destination, filled with cheap souvenir shops and hordes of people.
After studying the map, we found a less popular part of town, so we went there and were still able to admire the local architecture.
After returning to Monopoli in the afternoon, we decided to also visit the beaches located to the south of the city using a local bus service. So, after getting off at the Monopoli Losciale — Contrada Capitolo bus stop, we walked to the sandy beach.
To be honest, this sandy stretch of coastline was indeed very beautiful; yet, the so-called beach clubs had completely taken over this area. These types of clubs may provide a great all-day experience for families, but it’s not our kind of thing.
So, we ended the day with a long walk along the beach and then took the bus back to the city center. It’s worth checking the local bus schedule in advance because you could spend a long time waiting at the bus stop, relying on your phone to pass the time.
Day Four — Beaches and Polignano a Mare
Unlike the previous days, we decided that after a late and hearty breakfast, we would explore and find the smaller coves lined up in the southern part of the city.
These coves were easily accessible on foot and followed one after the other. Since it was Saturday, we expected that every beach would be filled with locals, and this suspicion was confirmed.
As a result, “full house” signs could be seen everywhere. Due to the summer heat, continuous hydration and the use of sunscreen were mandatory during the exploration tour.
Regardless of everything, we discovered better and better coves and coastline sections.
Our favorite spot where we also went for a swim was Grotta Due Ingressi, which is described as a super public beach on Google Maps. It was truly splendid, not to mention the crystal-clear water.
On our way back, we didn’t go along the shore to our accommodation, but instead, we passed through a beach club located by the shore, where we enjoyed a pleasant salad and decided to spend our time there on the last day.
Upon returning to our accommodation and a quick change of clothes, we boarded a train and headed to the small town of Polignano a Mare, located about a 15-minute train ride north of Monopoli.
We recommend the seaside and old town walk to everyone, as it’s a fantastic half-day activity, especially in the late afternoon when it’s not as hot anymore. The photo speaks for itself.
Last day — Beach and goodbye
So, as I mentioned earlier, we spent our last day at the Maritimo Urban Sun beach club, where we got two sunbeds and an umbrella for the whole day for 40 EUR. We can recommend this place because it turned out to be the best in the area.
The only thing that worried us a bit was where to leave our luggage, as we didn’t want to carry it around all day. Our host was very kind, and we would like to thank Her again by providing the contact information for Il Borgo Guesthouse.
Our host allowed us to leave our luggage at the accommodation for the entire day because our flight only departed late in the evening. Furthermore, we not only left our luggage there but also took a shower and changed clothes after returning from the beach late in the afternoon, making the journey back home more comfortable.
From Monopoli to Bari Airport, with one train transfer, it takes roughly one to one and a half hours, and these trains are punctual and reliable.
Conclusion
We spent a wonderful and memorable five days in Monopoli. Each day, we enriched ourselves with many experiences. We particularly enjoyed being among the local people and not spending our vacation in a typical tourist destination.
I highly recommend this fantastic little town, with all its beauty and the hospitality of the locals, both for couples and families alike.
I hope we can return!
Please check out my other writings related to travel.
Hello, I’m Jozsef. I’m writing about spirituality, traveling and generative AI. To see my stories pop up on your feed, I’d love for you to follow me (Jozsef Kovacs). And, to have stories sent directly to you, subscribe to my newsletter.👇
